White scum inside water jacket?

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In our area there are two different anode rods that you can get for your water heater. Do you happen to know which one you are using?
When I talked to P&M about where the anode went I was told that with proper water you don't use them. they are used in domestic water heaters because its 100% make up water.
To me your scum looks like a bit of calcium deposit which precipitates out of hot water that goes above 140F. Once it is gone from the water you dont get more until you add fresh water. (think electric kettle, steamer, etc) I used to find that if the water in an electric boiler was kept below 140F in the Toronto city drinking water area, then there was virtually no calcium to worry about cleaning after a year. If it went to 160F then you would start having elements scale up and rupture....in as little as six months. I am talking about 400kw boilers....
 
I guess that does make sense About not needing an anode if you aren't using alot of fresh water. I didn't put a drop in mine this winter and I'm pretty sure after initial expansion nothing else came out the vent line. I'll call the local bottled water place and ask what 120 gallons would cost if it's too much I'll just put my regular tap water back in, like this was.
 
If you are thinking of bottled water, start with one bottle and test it first. There is no reason to expect it to be any better than regular well water.
 
They offer reverse osmosis water. I assumed that would be better then our town water.

Would well water be a better choice? Or should any water be tested to make sure?
 
Your anode rod is the corrosion vacuum in your boiler Warno.

Do not worry about it, Just be sure to change the anode rod every couple of years and you will be fine.

The fir attaches to the anode rod and falls off as water is coursing through your boilers water jacket so its not a huge worry on your part, you just have to decide if you want to drain the steam chest and clean it out. I have not bothered with ours nor will I with the coal stoker as it is not a real concern.
 
Two things! A sacrificial anode has little to do with the water quality. Metals in water create an electromechanical charge because the water acts as an electrolyte (think battery) and wants to dissolve the metals. A sacrificial anode is made from a highly active metal like zinc that will be attacked and give it's life before the steel. Any metals that are in water like steel ships. outdrives on your boat and gates on the locks that raise ships have them attached somewhere on them.
Secondly. RO water sounds great but you must understand that it has been stripped of all it's minerals and will aggressively attack the steel interior trying to get them back.
 
I think I'll let my current anode finish its life and I'll just continue water treatment and sampling each year.

Wow, so good water has a bad effect as well. Why is chemistry so hard to understand? I talked to a friend that has a well in the country, I think I'm going to draw a sample from his well and my own tap and send them both for testing. Which ever water is better I'll use to refill.
 
The anode is good to have. Non pressurized boilers like Garn have them for a reason.
 
Ok I'll keep one in there then.

The anode rod that I bought, from ebay, was said to be magnesium. If you look at the picture I posted of the rod, you can see a pile of junk that looks like chunks of the rod laying in the bottom of the boiler. Should those pieces be of any concern?
 
Ok I'll keep one in there then.

The anode rod that I bought, from ebay, was said to be magnesium. If you look at the picture I posted of the rod, you can see a pile of junk that looks like chunks of the rod laying in the bottom of the boiler. Should those pieces be of any concern?
They shouldn't do any harm. The metal is not detrimental to the chemistry of the water. It's just there to give it's life for the survival of the boiler. Pretty gallant and selfless act..
The fact that in one burning season your anode has deteriorated to that extent may be telling you that there is an abundance of electrical activity.
You could try a zinc anode. I recall running into a company on the internet that specializes in zinc anodes. Try Googling .
 
Zinc anodes contain 90 percent aluminum

Aluminum- not good for domestic use nor would I want it in my boiler water

Magnesium anodes are not good areas with hard water but creating a neutral PH is best anyway

Impressed current anode rods are operated using electric current

Combination anode rods are plain anode rods

"The type of anode rod needed is simply based on your water.
Aluminum anodes are not used much if at all as the aluminum
dissolves and becomes poisonous when it comes in contact with hot water."

If you have a water softener that will help your plumbing and the boiler feed
water as well and reduce the hardness of the water.

Your current anode rod is doing its job and whether you drain the boiler or not is up
to you but you do not have a mud leg in the boiler so its more difficult to keep track
of the scale and minor sediment which occurs to drain it off as needed.


Is your forest eater connected to a strap and ground rod??? It should be anyway.
 
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I only drained it it because my drain valve thread fitting was leaking and to do my replumbing I had to do. Next year I won't be draining it.

Yes my boiler and all its electronics are connected to an 8' ground rod.
 
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