Stove vs. insert challenge

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hikingguyantonio

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Apr 6, 2016
38
pacific Northwest
Dear Hearth.com members,
-I am new to this world so please forgive me for what may sound so "beginner".
-I have just bought a home in North Idaho and the owner built beautiful stone fireplaces. They are not, what I am used to, a "classic style" fireplace.
-Let me give you the dimension of each fireplace for which I would like to have Jotul stoves or inserts placed in/near each of the 3 fireplace's.
-If a stove is better at heating than an insert then the decision will be stove but perhaps I can run the exhaust flue to the fireplace possibly.

-Also the chimney's were "built" within the home's exterior walls

Fireplace 1- Length= 48" , Width= 41", Height= 21" (Open on 2 sides lengthwise)

Fireplace 2- Length= 48", Width= 24", Height= 26" (open on 1 length and 1 width)

Fireplace 3- Length= 37", Width= 30", Height= 22" (open on 3 sides, both length and one width)

Thank you in advance for assistance.
 
A freestanding stove is usually going to be a somewhat better heater than an insert; an insert will look nicer in a traditional fireplace.

For your application, you would need to do some buding to use an insert. They only have one "finished" face on them.
 
I think only 1 of your fireplaces is high enough for a freestander, the other two you would have to go with inserts. I had an insert and replaced with a freestander. I guess it's a matter of taste on which one looks better.
If I was running multiple stoves I would look at the blaze king inserts, especially the new ones coming out. You could probably heat your house on 2 loads a day running multiple stoves.
 
I am new to the wood stove world. I purchased a Harmon 300i. I was very scared because the total cost for stove and install was $4800. Its been a month and I must say. This was the best $ I ever spent. I can load in 5 logs At 7pm and at 7 pm the next day the stove is still warm and has hot embers. So hot I can fill it up with wood and have flame in minutes. I use all kind of wood, old,new,damp, dry. This stove is amazing. I thought I would have to walk to the wood pile several times a day. Not even close. I have not used my furnace since the first night I started using the stove. I have 2300sf house 2 floors its not an open concept floor plan. I turn on 2 ceiling fans and the heat makes it way throughout the entire house in a hour. Can't say enough good things about this stove.
 

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For fireplace #1 there are a few that will squeak in around 20" I think. The Lopi Answer (20 3/4") Enviro 1200 (20 3/4") and Country Striker 160 (19.5") come to mind. It will be tight so measure thrice. Fireplace #2 has the opposite problem. it's taller and narrower. The width is an issue. This fireplace might be better off with a freestanding, rear-vent stove on the hearth. Woodstock has some stoves that will clear this lintel. Fireplace #3 has the most options. Take a looks at the Enviro Boston 1700 and see what you think.

And welcome to hearth.com. How large is the house and does it have very high ceilings? Where are these fireplaces located?
 
Hello everyone,
-I sure appreciate the input. The home is 3 levels of about 1700 square feet on each level for a total of 5100 overall. The 3rd level is loft like so heat can flow easily from level 2 to 3.

-I did more research and does anyone know about teh wood stove by "Dick's machine shop" in IA? http://www.jimbonham.com/Stove/stove.html

-It looks like a robust stove I can put on the lower floor and let it heat the whole home in one shot.

Thanks again
 
I don't think I would buy his stove. 10cf firebox? If something goes wrong and mostlikely it will there is a lot of fuel in it. Second I don't think this guy knows what his talking about or he is just badmouthing new stoves about fire bricks. They are there to insulate the fire box not to protect it. I am sure there will be people chiming in with more knowledge. My opinion stay away.
 
A gigantic monster stove of dubious engineering is not something you want inside your house.

Even if it is perfectly safe, it doesn't sound like it is even catalytic, so it would waste a lot of wood.

Stick to stoves that were designed by engineers who design stoves.
 
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I can't even imagine what kind of temperature it would get to if something went wrong.
 
Thanks, It seemed a bit much temp wise at 230 degrees.

-So I think that the catalytic type is best?

-It seems my best bet is to place a nice big, rear exhaust free stander in my basement fireplace.

-Does that sound reasonable? The heat will easily work it's way up the stairs to the first level.
-I will try to post a pic of the fireplaces.

Thanks
 
hikingguyantonio said:
Hello everyone,
-I sure appreciate the input. The home is 3 levels of about 1700 square feet on each level for a total of 5100 overall. The 3rd level is loft like so heat can flow easily from level 2 to 3.

-I did more research and does anyone know about teh wood stove by "Dick's machine shop" in IA? http://www.jimbonham.com/Stove/stove.html

-It looks like a robust stove I can put on the lower floor and let it heat the whole home in one shot.
Click to expand...
Looks like a basic box from the 60's. Not sure your insurance would allow a non-UL listed box like that to be installed. And not sure how he is dodging EPA regs. If you want a ducted whole house heater consider a wood furnace like the Caddy or Tundra.
 
hikingguyantonio said:
Thanks, It seemed a bit much temp wise at 230 degrees.

-So I think that the catalytic type is best?

-It seems my best bet is to place a nice big, rear exhaust free stander in my basement fireplace.

-Does that sound reasonable? The heat will easily work it's way up the stairs to the first level.
-I will try to post a pic of the fireplaces.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Depending on airflow in your house, you may want more than one, no matter how big the one is. In some houses, you can heat the basement to 80 and it will be 75 on the first floor and 70 on the second; in other houses you can heat the basement to 80 and it will be 60 on the first floor and 40 on the second floor.

There's some debate as to whether catalytic stoves or tube stoves are the better technology (my opinion: catalytic).

No matter what you get, make sure it reburns the wood gas- catalytic stoves and tube stoves both do this. This lets you get more heat out of your wood and is more environmentally friendly.
 
hikingguyantonio said:
Thanks, It seemed a bit much temp wise at 230 degrees.

-So I think that the catalytic type is best?

-It seems my best bet is to place a nice big, rear exhaust free stander in my basement fireplace.

-Does that sound reasonable? The heat will easily work it's way up the stairs to the first level.
-I will try to post a pic of the fireplaces.
Click to expand...
Maybe, but it will take lowering the hearth or raising the lintel so that the rear vent can clear the lintel of that low first floor fireplace. Might work for milder whether though it's unlikely to heat the full barn when it gets cold out. For that another large stove on the first floor will probably be needed or a wood furnace maybe.
 
If you're thinking of a furnace, you could even have the furnace outside. My neighbor's house is heated with hot water baseboards, which are connected to a big whonking outdoor wood boiler. Does his potable hot water, too.
 
One other question is chimney flue size.

-The chimneys are clay lined, is that the correct term?

-They are minimum 12" square inside diameter at the top and each fireplace has it's own flue.

-Will I still need the steel liner from top to bottom? Or just the items to seal the damper area?

Thanks
 
hikingguyantonio said:
Will I still need the steel liner from top to bottom?
Click to expand...
A liner will cost more up front but will pay off in safety, ease of cleaning, and better stove performance especially when it's not real cold out. 12" clay liner chimney won't draw well at all.
 
You will definitely need a liner in each chimney flue that a stove or insert is connected to. Sealing the damper area will help keep more of the heat in the room, but with an interior chimney that is less of a concern, especially if the liners are insulated. Still it is advisable for the freestander at least. What will be important is controlling draft on the basement stove it the liner is > 25' tall. If this is where a freestanding stove will be, plan on including a key damper.
 
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I just read through Dicks machine shop website and all I can say is wow. I cant understand how anyone would believe that crap.
 
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