stove pipe ??

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unclebobsjerky

unclebobsjerky

Member
Aug 12, 2012
32
NH
i have a question.i am setting up my new pellet stove and want to use my existing 8 inch stove pipe. the problem being i don't remember what brand it is. the pipe that connects to the ceiling does twist and lock into place would this mean it is a Dura system pipe? and if so do i need to stay with this same type of pipe.
 
It seems each brand has a different connection system so it is best to stick with the same brand for a better chance at a clean seal. If you are not sure, try taking a photo of it with a cell phone so you can take it to the store with you. How are you planning to configure your pipe? 3" or 4"? Pipe brand will be more important for an adapter...
 
here is a picture ceiling box. it is a female fitting with an 8 inch pipe that goes in grove and twists to lock
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Lake Girl said:
It seems each brand has a different connection system so it is best to stick with the same brand for a better chance at a clean seal. If you are not sure, try taking a photo of it with a cell phone so you can take it to the store with you. How are you planning to configure your pipe? 3" or 4"? Pipe brand will be more important for an adapter...
Click to expand...
ok so i took a pic of the connection on the ceiling sent it to Duravent support. they got right back to me and said it was their system and suggested which way i should proceed.I would like to thank you for your help and the help of this great web site. Thanks again
 
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Great to hear that you have brand and part sorted out ... Don't be a stranger! Let us know how you make out with install ... you might want to do your cure in burn outside before setting it in place in the house.
 
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Yeah, we did the P61 indoors and endured the 35 minutes of smoke, smoke detectors going off even with the windows open and 25 deg breeze blowing through the house. We actually ate supper as that was going on but danged if I was burning one more night of oil that weekend. The coal stove was out in the yard and the P61 installed in a day though, ready to fire up at supper time.. We were pleased to find it heated the whole house 24/7 the rest of the winter. We had been through the stink with both wood and coal stove but a long time ago !
 
So how are you supposed to do this? Does the 3/4" PV just dump into the 8" class A chimney at the ceiling box and then float up to the chimney cap or do you somehow run the 3/4" PV inside the class A and use a weird cap to hold it at the top?
 
Highbeam said:
So how are you supposed to do this? Does the 3/4" PV just dump into the 8" class A chimney at the ceiling box and then float up to the chimney cap or do you somehow run the 3/4" PV inside the class A and use a weird cap to hold it at the top?
Click to expand...
This is a good question and it really depends on what the owners manual gives you for an outline. Some stoves safely jump up to 8" or even larger and some max at 6". Still others show a single wall pipe running up through. Best to follow what the manual says but I know there are other members in the forum who have done this. I think short of a leaf blower for cleaning then cleaning might be a little funny to pull off, but hey they do it.
 
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Highbeam said:
So how are you supposed to do this? Does the 3/4" PV just dump into the 8" class A chimney at the ceiling box and then float up to the chimney cap or do you somehow run the 3/4" PV inside the class A and use a weird cap to hold it at the top?
Click to expand...
well according to the stove company manual i should run the new 3" stove to the ceiling and then connect to no larger then a 6 inch pipe to the cap.well being a man who never plays well with others i am going to just run the new 3" and let it dump into the existing 8" flu system since it is only about 8 more feet to the cap.i will be doing this install this summer so i can run the stove and make sure there is not a problem for this coming winter. If there is a problem then i will run the company suggested 6" pipe in side the existing 8" chimney pipe to the cap
 
I can see the transition from 3" to 8" being a collection point for fly ash and potential for creosote build-up. Do they not have an adapter to secure 3" pellet pipe within that 8" ?
 
good point. i will have to check...be that as it may. on a normal 3" or 4" pellet stove pipe run how much particulate matter buildup is in an avg pellet stove pipe system after a heavy usage season?
also both pipes (the 8" and the 3" ) both being doubled walled there will be less worry about heat build up then with single wall.... I should be able to disconnect at the inside ceiling end and easily clean as many times as needed ( theoretically ) per season
 
General rule of thumb is after every ton burned ... I'd be concerned on the clean-up plan:eek: fly ash everywhere!
 
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Venting your Pellet Stove


Venting your new pellet stoves is crucial for optimum operation of your stove.

To begin let's first talk about the different types of vent pipes in the market. There are five different types of vent pipe used in the heating industry.

Gas vent pipe, which uses aluminum for the inside wall of the chimney. The chimney itself looks very similar to Pellet Vent pipe. Read the label to make sure. Under no circumstance should gas vent pipe be used for Pellet Vent Pipe, as the inner wall will not stand up to the pellet vent exhaust and pipe will fail very rapidly.
Pellet Vent pipe, referred to as L-Vent pipe, can be purchased in 3 inch and 4 inch diameter sizes. The L-Vent pipe is the correct type of pipe for your pellet stove. The inner chimney is made from Stainless Steel and will last as long as your pellet stove.
Corn Vent pipe is usually for corn burning stoves however, it is OK to be used for the pellet stoves as well. Corn Vent also comes with a stainless steel inner chimney, and should last the life of the stove.
Manufactured wood stove pipe, classified as Class A pipe, usually comes in 6 inch, 7 inch, and 8 inch diameters. This type of pipe will also work with your pellet stove as it also has a stainless steel inner chimney. However, it is not necessary to be used for the pellet stove since this type of pipe is very expensive.
Existing masonry wood stove chimneys with clay liner are also classified as a Class A chimneys and comes in various sizes and must have a clay inner liner. This also works very well with a pellet stove. Pellet vent pipe can vent directly into Class A chimneys."


I just found this on line. thought it useful
 
unclebobsjerky said:
good point. i will have to check...be that as it may. on a normal 3" or 4" pellet stove pipe run how much particulate matter buildup is in an avg pellet stove pipe system after a heavy usage season?
also both pipes (the 8" and the 3" ) both being doubled walled there will be less worry about heat build up then with single wall.... I should be able to disconnect at the inside ceiling end and easily clean as many times as needed ( theoretically ) per season
Click to expand...
No way to answer that. Everyone's setup is different. Everyone runs their stove different even if it's the same stove, houses are different sizes to heat, pellets are different. Weather, humidity, wind, how warm you like it or how cool you like the house. No one answer.

It's just best to always have a plan for cleaning, the easier the better.
 
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I think I would rather figure out a way to run the 3" all the way up than try to put a 6" pipe inside the 8" pipe.
 
the problem being a nice big 8 inch hole running straight up through the house........No i think if it came to it (which i don't think it will) i would run the 3 inch pipe right up through the existing 8 inch pipe all the way to the top and secure it to the 8 " cap. But being new to this "pellet stove" scene i am going to take it slow and take the same attitude as a good old friend of mine
 

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The InterNACHI info, could and should are two very different things. Might want to get it set up early so you can try your plan out. If it causes problems, you can change it before cold weather hits.

Edit: For myself, I would follow stove recommendations ... lucky for me it turned out to be a 3' horizontal and turbo cap:) Easy to clean!
 
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If I'm reading this right you have 16 ft of vertical rise and what ever horizontal to get to the vertical. Start looking at flow numbers and see if you need 4" to run 16 ft of vertical or not. I bet you can run 4" single wall stainless flex through that class A anyway. You will have to run double up to it though. But if the manual says 6" is the limit I don't think I'd expand those gases out to 8" personally. The last thing you want is a creosote issue. The standard in the pellet industry for fairly long vertical runs is 4", my vertical is 23' and it works perfectly. I brush it every 1-1/2 to 2 tons, 3" would need it sooner most likely..
 
you are all correct. There is too much money involved (not to mention my families safety) not to play it by the book.
Tomorrow i will break out the measuring tape and get in the attic then on the roof and do this right. i will let you all know how this turns out.
thanks again. you people are great.................
 
We aren't here to scare you, just help out if we can. I will say this, you only need one chimney fire in your life and you won't ever do it the wrong way again . And don't think a pellet stove can't have one because there is plenty of documentation saying they can. We had a member here a couple of years ago with a faulty install who in fact had one. So ya, if you are going to error do it for over anal rather than under following spec.
 
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As long as the transition is a safe connection, I don't see the problem.
I think there would be more of a problem if you ran 3" up a long way..
 
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