Hearth pad, Stove and Chimney install

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T-roy_

Burning Hunk
Dec 30, 2015
203
Central Minnesota
Now that the burning season is over I thought I'd post some pictures of my install. I would have never been able to do this without this site, so thank you Hearth.com

The raised hearth is 2x4 construction with 3/4" plywood and 1/2" Durarock.

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Next I filled the cracks in the Durarock with thinset added the tile edge and oak trim board. I ripped the board to the correct width, stained and varnished beforehand.
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I added some small crown molding along the bottom edge and tiled with natural slate.
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What do you guys think? More to come!!
 
Looks great. What stove is going here?
 
The stove is already there, I've just been slacking on posting the pics. It's a Drolet HT2000.
 
Awesome. That's some serious heat. Nice install. Looks like it has total pup approval.
 
Sharp looking hearth.
 
Awesome. That's some serious heat. Nice install. Looks like it has total pup approval.
Yep, she gets the best seat in the house
 
Sharp looking hearth.
Thanks! So glad I decided to build the hearth myself instead of buying pre-made. Got lotsa ideas and confidence to do it myself from this site, love it!
 
Looks great. Is that single or double wall pipe? I ask because I was wondering what type of thermometer that is. If you have double wall, I assume it's a probe type, what kind? Does it seem accurate? Thanks!!

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It is double wall stovepipe with a SBI probe type thermometer. Seems to be accurate but I have nothing to compare it against.
 
Nice job looks great. Nothing better than doing something like that your self just feels better. Plus the slate looks beautiful. There is always a way to make it work. Once again nice plus the heat from the stove even better.
 
Not sure what type it is... I bought it at that big orange home improvement store. They are 12x12 natural slate tiles. There is a lot of variation in color, I had to pick through their stock to find the colors I liked best.

Kind of a pain to install because of the differences in thickness. They varied quite a bit. You need a thick bed of thinset to compensate. Use a trowel with a 1/2" notch or better.

I did use a sealer/enhancer with a satin finish. It didn't change the look of the tile much.
 
That slate is beautiful. Looks great!
 
that is a real nice job, now you can bask in the heat of the stove and admire your own work
 
that is a real nice job, now you can bask in the heat of the stove and admire your own work
Thanks edyit, still basking in wood heat even though it's almost may! Not complaining, warmer weather is on the way!
 
Now that the burning season is over I thought I'd post some pictures of my install. I would have never been able to do this without this site, so thank you Hearth.com

The raised hearth is 2x4 construction with 3/4" plywood and 1/2" Durock.

View attachment 178120 View attachment 178121
Next I filled the cracks in the Durock with thinset added the tile edge and oak trim board. I ripped the board to the correct width, stained and varnished beforehand.
View attachment 178122
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View attachment 178123
I added some small crown molding along the bottom edge and tiled with natural slate.
View attachment 178124
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What do you guys think? More to come!!


I had some questions about your setup since i'm about to build something similar.
1. Did you have to install any heat resistant wall protection? I'm planning on building a stone wall behind the stove.
2. How is your wood frame support boards laid out? Every 12 inches?
3. Did you remove the carpet underneath? I have a wood floor that i'm going to be building on top of, and i'm wondering how to protect it.
4. Whats the best way to cut Durock?

Congrats on your project.
 
1- Wall protection is only necessary when a clearance reduction is needed and allowed by the stove mfg..
2- Floor support beam spacing will depend on the base material. For example, 16" would be fine with 1 1/8" plywood. 12" should be sufficient if 3/4" is used.
3- Yes, remove carpet underneath.
4- Durock cuts pretty easily by scoring the cut with a utility knife, then snapping off the piece on a table or bench edge
 
What begreen said.

I did leave a little extra room in the rear because I also plan to add some stone on the wall in the future. Make sure you check your stove manual for clearances.

Also check floor protection requirements, my stove only requires ember protection. Your stove may require additional "R" value which will mean more layers of durarock or other materials.

Happy building!
 
What begreen said.

I did leave a little extra room in the rear because I also plan to add some stone on the wall in the future. Make sure you check your stove manual for clearances.

Also check floor protection requirements, my stove only requires ember protection. Your stove may require additional "R" value which will mean more layers of durarock or other materials.

Happy building!

Thanks for the info. I'm planning to get an Alderlea T5 which the manual says 12 inches for single wall connector, But if i'm using stone, do i really need to go out 12 inches from the stone? Having trouble locating the R value in the manual.

I'm going to build a raised hearth with durock and slate stone, i'm guessing since the stove is on legs that one sheet of durock and slate should be enough?
 
The Alderleas are ember protection only, no R value will be listed. You could put down a sheet of metal or tempered glass and be fine as long as it's the correct size or larger. The minimum rear clearance to combustibles on a flat rear wall for the T5 is 5" when connected with double-wall stove pipe. It doesn't hurt to exceed that clearance. There's no harm in exceeding minimums, extra wiggle room is nice. Note that the clearance listed is to the nearest combustible. If Durock is applied directly to the studs then the clearance is measured to the studs.
 
The Alderleas are ember protection only, no R value will be listed. You could put down a sheet of metal or tempered glass and be fine as long as it's the correct size or larger. The minimum rear clearance to combustibles on a flat rear wall for the T5 is 5" when connected with double-wall stove pipe. It doesn't hurt to exceed that clearance. There's no harm in exceeding minimums, extra wiggle room is nice. Note that the clearance listed is to the nearest combustible. If Durock is applied directly to the studs then the clearance is measured to the studs.

Should I cut out the drywall, and put Durock in place of that and then add the stone to the wall? I was hoping to just put the stove about 5-10 inches away from the stone without having to cut out the dry wall at all. Thanks for info.
 
No need to remove the drywall, just use 1/2" longer cement board screws, every 8". 5" from the stone should be fine as long as double-wall connector pipe is used.
 
Here is the stove and double wall stove pipe installed.
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A shot of the class a. Total height is 16' including connector pipe.
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Great Install! Looks awesome! If you don't mind me asking, what kind of stove pipe did you use? i'm getting ready to install my HT2000 and I like the look of your stove pipe. I will need to use double wall stove pipe like you did. Also, did you end up using a stove pipe to stove adapter? I was looking at getting Security stove pipe with the vents to recover some of the heat but the sizes offered don't seem to be working out for me.
 
Great Install! Looks awesome! If you don't mind me asking, what kind of stove pipe did you use? i'm getting ready to install my HT2000 and I like the look of your stove pipe. I will need to use double wall stove pipe like you did. Also, did you end up using a stove pipe to stove adapter? I was looking at getting Security stove pipe with the vents to recover some of the heat but the sizes offered don't seem to be working out for me.
Thanks! I used Selkirk double wall from menards. You should use the same brand of double wall stove pipe as your class a chimney...unless you are venting into a masonry chimney. I did use the appliance adapter mainly because I needed the extra 6" or so to reach the ceiling support, but I kind of like the way it looks now that it is installed. It should work with or without the adapter.

Don't worry about extracting additional heat from the stove pipe, its the stoves job to do the heating. The whole point of double wall is to keep the heat in to improve draft and reduce creosote deposits. Happy heating!
 
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