Thimble Required?
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The thimble is in.. Got the frame mounted around it and the roxul packed in between except around the thimble as it requires an air space. Had to switch out my 5" snout as it was too short for the thimble. Installed the snout that came with the thimble using some wire to pull the strap back around the liner inside the chimney. I cut the snout to the final length of the thimble and ran the stove pipe right into it. I dry fitted things to see how it would work out and it seems perfect. The clearances from the back were exactly where I needed them. All that's left is to get the rock board over the foundation wall, figure out how i'm going to put as a ledge and put up the veneer stone. Hoping to get to that soon... Been busy around here..
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CenterTree
Minister of Fire
No. I just got a 12" stove pipe connector that slid right into the inner of the T. So the end of the stove pipe was crimped and not the T.
Ugh.. I just can't get this stuff right.. So how do you recommend I fix that if the snout is cut level with the end of the thimble..? Would something like this work so I don't have to redo the snout?
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Change out the snout. How is it attached if it is flush? That is much more concerning to me that the direction of the crimp.
The snout is connected to the T with the band clamp and passes through the thimble. I just cut the snout short because I was assuming the stove pipe went inside the snout rather than around the snout. To replace the snout the entire thimble would have to come off again..
Yes but how is the pipe connected to the snout? And yes the thimble may need to come out to fix it at this point.
Makes perfect sense bholler. I'll grab another snout. One other question, is there a certain distance the end of the thimble has to be from the front of the wall which in my case is concrete board and eventually veneer stone? I have the Olympia wall thimble. I didn't see any clearances in the manual which is why I was wondering.
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I think it is 3" protrusion but i am not sure on that. I thought i saw it in the manual but i could be wrong
Okay thanks. I'll have to measure but im pretty are I have at least 4 or 5 inches from the rock board to where the tee will exit outside the thimble so I should probably be good
Okay guys.. now that the other projects are done I'm back to getting the wood stove finished up. I'm trying to figure out how to keep the back wall non combustible yet get it to level up with the finished drywall on the sides of the stove. I have about 2" total to build the wall out over the foundation wall for it to be level with the drywall on both sides of the stove. I've looked at metal studs however sideways they are only 1.25" wide. Anyone have any ideas? I would greatly appreciate it. I would like to be around 8" from the wall which should be fine as long as I don't add anything combustible. I will most likely be putting stone veneer over the concrete board.
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Thanks begreen. Looks like that should work. Would it hurt to put Roxul in between the metal studs before I mount the concrete board or should I just leave it open air space?
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
Is that class A pipe going through the wall? My town wont pass anything through the wall unless its class A pipe, Just FYI
no it is an insulated thimble made for that application. I am sure your town would pass it just fine
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
Next time I see Lou (our fire inspector) I will ask him and also ask that he emails me his specs, I'll PM you with them. I should see him this Saturday at our chicken bbq fundraiser at the FD
Well he needs to be following code right? That setup for a wall pass thru meets and code I have ever seen. Using class a in intis case would not be the correct product for the application.
Thanks for all the info begreen. I was planning to peel the roxul down. I just wanted some insulation on the foundation wall when I didn't have the stove going. As far as the thimble goes thats the thimble Rockford chimney told me would be best for my application. Also, I did end up changing out the Tee snout with a longer one. I still need to crimp the end of it but I figure I'll get to that when I hook up the stove for good.
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Well I got around to installing the steel studs. Got those all mounted to the foundation wall. I decided against putting Roxul behind the wall and just left it open airspace as i didn't think it would benefit me much. I got the concrete board mounted to the wall as well. I decided to just double up the hardiebacker board to get it even with the drywall on both sides instead of going with furring channel. Should land me right where I need to be. The pictures only show the first layer on the wall. I plan to finish up the 2nd layer tonight. I also need to put a little bit of hardieboard on the top of the foundation wall as I plan to put the same stone I use for the hearth on the top of the foundation wall as a ledge. Just thought i'd share the progress. Thanks again for everyone's help throughout this process.
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I got everything finished up last night. The two layers of Hardiebacker ended up being perfect to match up to the current depth of the drywall. I also got the upper part of the foundation wall all boxed in. Looks like i'm ready to bug the wife to figure out what color venner stone and hearthstones she wants! 
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Added to signature! Well, I purchased the Veneer stone and Hearthstone this weekend. On the flip side, Insurance wants me to get everything inspected so I guess I'll take care of that before putting all the stone up.. Better safe than sorry I guess. Fun times!
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