Opinions requested on 50cc pro grade chainsaws

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Detector$

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Dec 16, 2007
127
NC
Guys, it's been a long time since I posted anything and I'd really appreciate it if you could take a few minutes to give me your thoughts on the following saws. I'm going to buy one soon and I've narrowed it down to a few.

They are:
I'd like your input on these specific saws and if there's a reason to buy one over the others based on your experience. I will primarily use the saw to fell, limb, and buck hardwood trees for firewood on my farm and on my parents farms and for use clearing after storms and occasional land clearing. I don't need more than an 18" bar and a 50cc saw.
 
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How comfortable are you doing occasional carburetor adjustments? The 550XP and MS261C-M have computer-controlled carburetors that take care of themselves and so perform well under a wide variety of conditions without needing any special attention. I'm pretty sure that the rest of those models have conventional carburetors.

Otherwise, I'd say it comes down to personal preferences such as balance, handle shape, inboard vs. outboard clutch, and price. They're all good machines.

Another factor: which brands have good local dealerships in case you need service or parts?
 
Honestly, they're all OK at best. I live in the the middle of nowhere. There aren't many dealers close by and the dealers seem to know more about the cheaper homeowner saws (because presumably their customers don't buy many pro saws). I want to buy the best saw. I'll have to drive for the best service.
 
I vote 550xp with the 18" narrow kerf bar. I own one and love it. Cut plenty of hardwoods/hickory to 20" with it. The Jonny equivalent would be a little cheaper on the wallet but does have a different handle design, otherwise the same saw.
 
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I'd say that Husqvarna is the easiest brand to buy parts for online, which might help make up for the long drive to a dealer.
 
The Jonny equivalent would be a little cheaper on the wallet but does have a different handle design, otherwise the same saw.

Ooops, hadn't realized that Jonsered had gotten into Autotune too. Looks like they have!
 
All great saws. Only 2 things I'll add is

1) on the Dolmar I think it still uses a catalytic muffler. But I'm not 100 percent on that. The smaller 421 does have a cat muffler. If it does, they get very hot and throw a lot of heat which may be bothersome to you if cutting in the warmer months. Also It's non auto tune which some people prefer but I like autotune myself.

2) there are detuned versions of the Husky and Jonsered. The Husky 545 and Jonsered 2252 are the same pro construction as the 550 / 2253 but come in about $100 cheaper and 1/2 hp lower. However they still use the same cases, same crank shaft and beefy lower end construction , same cylinder, same piston, same auto tune. Just a marketing thing to expand the companies product offerings and price points. If 1/2 hp difference doesn't bother you that $100 can buy some extra chains or PPE or whatever you need ( because the saws are pretty much identical otherwise )

I personally have a 2252 and it has been a great saw and the auto tune has been reliable knock on wood
 
They are all good performers. Local service would be the deal maker for me.
 
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Put as many of those saws in your hands to get a feel for the weight, balance, comfort, etc. You may notice a difference that will make the decision easier.
 
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I'm a fan of dolmar. Ive had my ps510 for 6 years and have had zero problems. It's a great all around saw, light and good power and easy to work on. Ive used a couple husky in the past and they felt good too but I always had bar oil under them where they sat unused.I recently added a 64cc for felling and bucking and for backup when the 510 gets stuck which unfortunately happens often.
 

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The only time any of my saws have looked that clean was probably on the day I bought them.

Nice saws and nice bar stools. No doubt Dolmar is probably the best bang for the buck out there. I've run a few of theirs saws over the years and every one of them was impressive and the quality was immediately noticeable.

Especially that little 421 at 42cc it's a crazy little saw. Ran it for a fair amount. Great local dealer demos them you can take the demo saw home and actually cut your wood with it. Never seen such a pro level build in only 42cc. Really impressive.

Go get your saws dirty they are too clean !
 
I can only comment on the old equivalent of the Stihl. I have a 18 year old 026 that runs as good today as the day I bought it, the only thing I have done is routine maintenance. It's been a great saw.
 
Best overall value... Dolmar hands down. (build quality& performance is phenomenal for the $$$)
Best looking.... Jonsered. (red & black is just TOO SEXY!)
Best ergonomics.... Jonsered. (straight front h.bars are my preference)
Best for replacement parts... Jonsered/Husky. (same mechanical parts inside)
Best pick pocket... Stihl. The name says it all, (the old ones were good but new ones suck)
Best for budget ... Echo. (always good reliable saws).
 
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I think I'm leaning towards the Husqvarna/Jonsered but do plan to get my hands on each saw before I pull the trigger. I want an 18" bar, but each saw has many options (below).... What are your thoughts?
  • 18" .325 .050 H30 RSN (narrow kerf, low kickback? w/ replaceable sprocket nose)
  • 18" .325 .050 H30 (narrow kerf, low kickback?)
  • 18" .325 .058 H21 (standard kerf, chisel)
I don't want a low kickback chain. I need a full chisel fast cutting chain. What are the pro's and con's on narrow vs. standard kerf and of the replaceable sprocket noses vs. standard noses?
 
Buy one of each bar (replaceable/non) and two full chisel (clean wood) and two semi chisel chains(not so clean wood), if you will be cutting frequently to keep a good wear rotation going. Low kick(green chain) sucks period.
 
Try to stay with the gauge that's most popular in your region. Around here, that's .050 gauge. It can be found at our dealers and BB stores.

My less expensive laminate bars from Stihl and Husqvarna have held up very well. Having a replaceable tip is important to me only on expensive/long bars.

On my favorite 50cc saw (Husqvarna 346XP), I run .325 Stihl RS (full chissel, NOT low kickback) chain on the original Husqvarna .325 NK bar. Yep, that's standard kerf chain on a NK bar. The NK chain that came with the saw (Husqvarna H30/Oregon 95VP) is nice and smooth, but I prefer the more aggressive full kerf, full chisel bite.
 
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There's pro-style non-safety chain, reduced-kickback chain and then there's full-on safety chain. They all cut the same way on smaller wood, but the moment you have to bury the nose of the bar (and especially when bore cutting) there's a noticeable difference, with safety chain being the worst. Safety chain has the additional problem of being a bigger pain to sharpen when it comes time to lower the rakers, because the rakers are huge. I would never buy safety chain, but the intermediate reduced-kickback stuff really isn't bad.

Like TreePointer wrote, pick the gauge that's most common in your area, or most common wherever you're most likely to buy chain. If you can see yourself ordering chains from eBay instead of driving to a dealer, then go with 0.050. If you want to get them at the local (sorta) dealer, find out what he stocks.

NK is nice but you'd have fewer choices of chain (brand, cutter shape, etc).

Wildo's suggestion to get a couple of chisel chains and a couple of semi-chisel is good.
 
The jred should probably come with a self branded .058 gauge Total bar. fwiw
 
For chains, I vote for semi-chisel in any sort of wood. Stays sharp much longer than full chisel (though I touch up any chain every other fillup). Full chisel goes dull much more quickly, and since it relies on a tiny point to enter the cut, once that goes dull it's CLICK- chain is dull. Amazingly quick transition, startling the first time seen..
Meaning, full chisel might be a tiny bit quicker when just filed, but that doesn't last nearly as long as semi- edge.
 
Best overall value... Dolmar hands down. (build quality& performance is phenomenal for the $$$)
Best looking.... Jonsered. (red & black is just TOO SEXY!)
Best ergonomics.... Jonsered. (straight front h.bars are my preference)
Best for replacement parts... Jonsered/Husky. (same mechanical parts inside)
Best pick pocket... Stihl. The name says it all, (the old ones were good but new ones suck)
Best for budget ... Echo. (always good reliable saws).
I'm not sold on the idea that the new stihls suck I had a ms 460 that served me well for 16 years. I sold it for almost what I paid for it and bought a ms 461. The only difference I see is more low end torque and much easier on fuel. Not sure what's wrong with that. I have heard that the 261 is heavier than the 026, but it's also Supposed to have more power so that's a trade off but does that make it suck? I have never been a bandwagon guy I buy what works best for my situation. I looked hard at the husqvarna 372. My neighbor has one ran it side buy side with my 460 in big oak, I ended up with stihl.
 
I'm not sold on the idea that the new stihls suck I had a ms 460 that served me well for 16 years. I sold it for almost what I paid for it and bought a ms 461. The only difference I see is more low end torque and much easier on fuel. Not sure what's wrong with that. I have heard that the 261 is heavier than the 026, but it's also Supposed to have more power so that's a trade off but does that make it suck? I have never been a bandwagon guy I buy what works best for my situation. I looked hard at the husqvarna 372. My neighbor has one ran it side buy side with my 460 in big oak, I ended up with stihl.

Didn't your mother ever tell you not to feed the brand loyalists?
 
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