Sears Riding Mower Oil Change ...

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Dix

Minister of Fire
May 27, 2008
6,686
Long Island, NY
Need to change the oil in the rider, and I'm on my own here, so looking for helpful advice.

M# 917.272680, and yes I have Googled, but reading conflicting info, so not sure how to proceed.

Do I need the "drain tube"? I understand the 30 weight oil bit, will pick some up, and a filter this weekend !

Thanks for any help.

If any one ever wants to know how to take a saddle apart, clean & oil, and put it back together so it works, just let me know ;)
 
I'm not familiar with your exact mower, but the drain tube is generally just to make the job less messy. Can you locate the oil drain plug? If so, and it's got an area below to put a pan, do it. Just pull the plug, and let it drain.
 
I know a few of my mowers in the past and my present one have a drain port, just turn the petcock out and the oil will start to drain. The drain tube I believe is just a rubber hose you can put on there for a much less messy job. Someone can chime in if I'm wrong.

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Your gonna make a mess. Just accept that. Depending on engine position (and I am NOT familiar with your machine) sometimes a makeshift funnel can be used/made. I have even made them from an old jug (think antifreeze) where I have cut one edge of the rounded jug off to make a ramp for the oil to flow. Lots of newspaper laid under the machine. Even a piece of heavy cardboard formed into a "V" can sometimes help.
 
I use a funnel and an empty 1 or 1/2 gallon bleach bottle to drain the oil out as neatly as possible. For you mower the drain tube may be long enough to drop into the container. It should hold at least 2 quarts. Try to have the drain on the low side of the mower. If the ground is level, run the opposite side of the mower up on a plank. Run the mower for a few minutes to warm up the oil. If already warmed up by running or after mowing, be careful, hot oil can burn you. Pop the cap off the oil drain valve and put the tube on the nipple protruding from the valve. Put the end of the tube in your container. Open the valve by pushing in slightly and then rotating it counter-clockwise. The oil should start flowing out the tube. Let oil drain fully. I usually go away and come back in 15-30 minutes. Close the valve by pushing in and rotating it clockwise to the closed position. Remove the hose and container. Fill carefully with the correct amount of oil (3 pints?).

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Thanks, guys. It has a petcock to drain, and I have a pan for the old oil, so I should be good to go.

Just ordered oil, filter, and air filter from Amazon, should be here next week.. So this is my next weekend project !
 
A long sheet of tinfoil - bend it up into a U shape to make a channel to the drain pan. works great. I had a mower years ago that If i didnt do that, the oil would be everywhere but the pan. mowed deck, support rails, driveway.
 
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Its also best to make the change while the oil is warm, not hot. It speeds things along by thinning the oil a bit and tends to carry more contaminants out with the old oil as they may be suspended.
 
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A long sheet of tinfoil - bend it up into a U shape to make a channel to the drain pan. works great. I had a mower years ago that If i didnt do that, the oil would be everywhere but the pan. mowed deck, support rails, driveway.
My Deere is the same way. I call it annual rust proofing.
 
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