This may be a dumb question but I never really seen the proper procedure written anywhere. After the line is run into the basement, how do you get the water to the appliance you are heating? Do you run the underground pipe all the way to the furnace/boiler etc and cut away the insulation or can you run the underground through the wall and connect pex from the wall to the appliance? I was told once that you want a solid line from wood boiler to appliance. That seems like alot of wasted money considering my gas boiler is 25-30' from the wall my pipe would be going through. I understand you would want a solid line through the ground. It would be nice to put some temperature gauges at the wall connection to see if you had any water infiltration.
Underground piping question
- Thread starter jasonh
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Jason , I ran my logstor underground pipe just thru my basement wall, then transitioned to 1 1/4" hepex pipe to the manifold for flow to my 5 zones.
Ok. I thought you could run other pex to the manifold or HX. Has anyone ever put temp gauges at that junction point?
My underground enters the basement and immediately goes to the manifold. At the manifolds, both supply and return, I have temp gauges installed. From the manifolds, I feed the heat exchangers with all copper.
Tennman
Minister of Fire
I ran one piece pex from black iron in the Boiler Barn to the heat exchanger (about 170'). Left the pex long and trimmed pex to match installed HE fittings. If necessary or useful I wouldn't hesitate to put a fitting or union inside the building so I could repair if a leak developed. I come out of the HE with about a 5-6' section of pex then attach to a long black iron manifold with multiple Tees for autofill ports, provide hot water, or add HEs. Only ended up adding autofill. I had no idea what I'd be adding back then. Primarily, I absolutely did not want to have any joints underground in the foam. Otherwise fair game where I could inspect and fix.
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