problem with reverse on Troy Bilt splitter

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twd000

twd000

Feeling the Heat
Aug 28, 2015
448
Southern New Hampshire
I am borrowing my neighbor's 27-ton Troy-Bilt log splitter. Works fine except (and he warned me) that the handle sometimes pops back to neutral when in reverse mode. Sometimes a second attempt lets it auto-reverse the ram, other times I have to hold it in place to prevent it from prematurely kicking back into neutral. Kind of a bummer when I want to be loading the next log. Is this something I can adjust/fix myself, or does the valve need to be replaced?
 
twd000 said:
I am borrowing my neighbor's 27-ton Troy-Bilt log splitter. Works fine except (and he warned me) that the handle sometimes pops back to neutral when in reverse mode. Sometimes a second attempt lets it auto-reverse the ram, other times I have to hold it in place to prevent it from prematurely kicking back into neutral. Kind of a bummer when I want to be loading the next log. Is this something I can adjust/fix myself, or does the valve need to be replaced?[/

The detent groove may be worn in one spot. Disconnect the handle from the spool, then turn the spool 1/2 turn and reconnect the handle. This often helps.
Click to expand...
 
Sounds like a detent in the auto return is getting weak. Also troy built had a recall on the valve at one time. We had to take ours in to get fixed. It's a troy built 27ton
 
My Troy Built splitter was doing the same thing. On the back of the valve there is a small round can looking part held on by four allen screws. This can is aprox 1 inch by a inch and a half. Anyway, this is the cover for the automatic return spring . Take the allens out and the cover off, Clean out with WD40 and than lube with general purpose grease. Reinstall, Problem solved. You're good to go. David
 
So I took off the two Allen bolts and the cover. I see two sleeves, plus some ball bearing and a retaining ring. I spun the sleeves around few few rotations and reassembled. No change. I didn't want to remove the ball bearings as I understand they are tough to reinstall. Do I need to remove the cotter pin and handle, and spin the spool around?
 

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Last edited:
Thanks for the manufacturer link. I read this: "Since the kick-out operates from hydraulic pressure, the valve may not kick out when the oil is cold. The kick-out pressure is not adjustable. Do not remove the spring cover (Item 9) and attempt to adjust."

Oil is definitely not cold. Is this really not adjustable? Or it this like a PC sticker "No user-serviceable parts inside" ?

Should I tear it down so I can start messing with Item #12 in this diagram? http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/17498X.pdf
 
If you take that end off, with the bearings, make sure you have a rag over the end.. The big ball bearing is really hard to find when it shoots across the yard.
 
I have taken one apart. There is no adjustment. When the sleeve is removed a spring and several ball bearing will take off in all directions. This can also happen if the handle is operated while the detent cover is removed. Re-assembly can be very tricky.
 
As TripT said earlier. Just spin the spool 180 degrees and put the handle back on. It will give the detent a nice fresh edge for the relief ball to catch on.
 
I spoke with an engineer at Energy today. He confirmed that there is no adjustment, and that this problem is caused by wear on the bearings or groove. He didn't mention anything about rotating the spool. I'm willing to try that- do I leave the detent cover in place, release the handle, and rotate the spool with pliers?
 
twd000 said:
I spoke with an engineer at Energy today. He confirmed that there is no adjustment, and that this problem is caused by wear on the bearings or groove. He didn't mention anything about rotating the spool. I'm willing to try that- do I leave the detent cover in place, release the handle, and rotate the spool with pliers?
Click to expand...

After the handle is disconnected from the spool, place a screw driver in the slot the handle was in to rotate the spool. This can be done in any position ,forward ,return,or neutral. Reconnect the handle. No other parts need to be removed. This often solves the worn detent problem.
 
Last edited:
Rotating the spool 180 degrees did the trick. I'm back in business. I assume the surfaces will get worn again in X00 hours, and then I will replace the valve
 
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