Black Class A Chimney Pipe

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walhondingnashua

walhondingnashua

Minister of Fire
Jul 23, 2016
619
ohio
I am installing an older nashua stove that was my grandfathers (sentimental value, but heating my home as well). Obviously need to make it all up to code and understand that I must use Class A pipe for my chimney outside. However, my wife HATES the stainless steel pipes she sees outside everyone's houses in our area. She doesn't mind at all if it is black. I have only done a little research, but who makes black pipe for my chimney outside? Or at least what are my options?
 
Hi Wal- Companies do offer class A in black, we special order it in from Olympia chimney, the Ventis class A. Its pricey, about 25 percent more than stainless finish. It is powder coated, looks real nice. you could also spray black the regular stainless too, but would take a lot of paint and time. Good luck with it.
 
stovelark said:
you could also spray black the regular stainless too, but would take a lot of paint and time. Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
When painting galvanized or aluminum for exterior use, you must use a special etching primer, lest your paint flake off in sheets after a few winters. I imagine stainless may be similar, but can't say, since I've never painted stainless for exterior use. Definitely worth a Google search on the subject, if you choose to go that route.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Stovelark, I checked olympics site and i don't see class a in black. Is it custom? and their site says they won't sell to homeowners. Is that correct?


stovelark said:
Hi Wal- Companies do offer class A in black, we special order it in from Olympia chimney, the Ventis class A. Its pricey, about 25 percent more than stainless finish. It is powder coated, looks real nice. you could also spray black the regular stainless too, but would take a lot of paint and time. Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
 
You can box it in any material you want. You need to keep the minimum distances (I recommend adding another inch or so) and can use 2X3s. You could finish it just like the siding on your house if you want.

In the attached image, the "through-the-wall" install is boxed in.
dt_typical_installb_ww_1.jpg
 
Swedishchef said:
You can box it in any material you want. You need to keep the minimum distances (I recommend adding another inch or so) and can use 2X3s. You could finish it just like the siding on your house if you want.

In the attached image, the "through-the-wall" install is boxed in.
View attachment 182327
Click to expand...

Thanks. That was the original plan, to match it to the house, but my home builder decided he didn't want to be liable so I got mad and said I'll do it myself. Saving me a couple thousand that I'm turning over into other things.

I have seen a few homes in my area with a colored aluminum box around their freestanding pipe. I might look into that.

Also talked to someone at woodland direct and they recommended the galvalum if I'm going to paint it. It seems promising.
 
Some people here simply keep a 3 inch distance between the walls of the Class A and frame the box with 2X3s then add their house siding to blend it in. Most people do it. Had I put my chimney where it was visible to my wife's eye from the street, I would have had to do it as well ;)

Andrew
 
Hi Wal- Yeah I think Olympia is only a sell to retailer company. Their pipe was about 25 percent higher to buy powder coated black. I think more colors than black were available. I like the idea of boxing it in too, you can then blend it into your house, a lot less noticeable I'd think.
 
stovelark said:
Hi Wal- Yeah I think Olympia is only a sell to retailer company. Their pipe was about 25 percent higher to buy powder coated black. I think more colors than black were available. I like the idea of boxing it in too, you can then blend it into your house, a lot less noticeable I'd think.
Click to expand...

I'll probably box it in at some point (even considering using cedar lumbar, which I think would be a nice touch), but I think I will buy the galvalum duraVent from woodland (free-shipping in ohio and michigan) and paint it. Good engine primer and flat black paint shouldn't set me back very much. If it looks bad I can always box it in.
 
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Me? I'd build a chimney chase using metal studs and cement board, stucco it to look like a real chimney. In fact, two of our chimneys are stucco, and they look right at home next to our old brick and stone chimneys.
 
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IIRC DuraTech is available in black too, but only in short lengths.
http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/M...-Chimney-Pipe-Black-9403B-6DT-12B-p19232.html

As an alternative you might just paint stainless pipe with a good Rustoleum product. I painted stainless steel flashing on our house with their paint and it still looks good, 10 yrs later. I sanded it lightly with fine grit emery paper first then wiped with alcohol before painting.
 
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begreen said:
IIRC DuraTech is available in black too, but only in short lengths.
http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/M...-Chimney-Pipe-Black-9403B-6DT-12B-p19232.html

As an alternative you might just paint stainless pipe with a good Rustoleum product. I painted stainless steel flashing on our house with their paint and it still looks good, 10 yrs later. I sanded it lightly with fine grit emery paper first then wiped with alcohol before painting.
Click to expand...

begreen, I am leaning towards painting it, especially since I know others have done it successfully.

I know most of the requirements for chimney instillation that most insurance companies require, but is their a link I can go to just to make sure since I'm doing it myself? THakns
 
If the manufacturer's instructions are followed to a tee then it should be ok. They usually post installation instructions on their website. Clearances are important as is following the 10-3-2 rule for chimney height over the roof. Ask lots of questions, sketch out the plan, post pictures here and take your time. Measure twice, cut once.
 
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begreen said:
If the manufacturer's instructions are followed to a tee then it should be ok. They usually post installation instructions on their website. Clearances are important as is following the 10-3-2 rule for chimney height over the roof. Ask lots of questions, sketch out the plan, post pictures here and take your time. Measure twice, cut once.
Click to expand...

Thank you. All great information. I will be on here often with questions.
 
Ashful said:
When painting galvanized or aluminum for exterior use, you must use a special etching primer, lest your paint flake off in sheets after a few winters. I imagine stainless may be similar, but can't say, since I've never painted stainless for exterior use. Definitely worth a Google search on the subject, if you choose to go that route.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
We paint aluminum, galvanized, and stainless all the time. We wash it with white vinegar before painting. No problems ever. It will hold up fine if it's degreased and etched with vinegar.
 
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webby3650 said:
We paint aluminum, galvanized, and stainless all the time. We wash it with white vinegar before painting. No problems ever. It will hold up fine if it's degreased and etched with vinegar.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've heard the white vinegar trick many times. Never used it myself, since I have a quart of etching primer that has lasted me a decade now, but I suppose it's achieving the same end. These high-mobility metals must be etched for reasonable adhesion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I find that the stainless paint holds up much better than regular stove bright on stainless unless you use an etching primer under the stove brite. But regardless no paint is going to hold up well on an exterior class a chimney. Box it in or get the powder coated stuff or I am pretty sure you will regret it
 
Or just touch up the paint every few years. Not a big deal. It holds up pretty well.
 
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