plumbing for washing machine

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that's good news. let's say there is a washer 6' from the junction with the old pipe and i am putting in a sink between the washer and junction. anything different i need to do? if i use 3" pipe, i should be good to go sans vent?
. I'm sure there are some codes for run without vents but I'm unsure of what the actual code is. That being said with a 6' run with a sink and washer I would do 2" with a vent.

2" is code for a washer and it's very little cost increase in doing the vent. Something like an extra:
*3x3x1-1/2 wye,
*Stick of 1-1/2"
*2x2x1-1/,x2x1 wye
*1-1/2 45 elbow
* 1-1/2 90 elbow.

It's cheap & easy to put the vent in now and know that it will work.

This is just my opinion. Do it once, do it right.

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i haven't yet opened up the wall where the washer is currently located. i'm sure there's a vent coming off of that, however.

if i just connect to the existing line, with the vent downstream of my new tie in by ~10-15ft, will that be okay? i know little about plumbing requirements...
 
I would do it something like this
3959ab96c1332d3239b75bbfc56878ce.jpg

Basically the vent runs parallel with the drain. It ties into the same vertical section of the existing drain. Put the vent wye in between the sink and washer and everything will drain well.
It's very little extra cost and maybe another 30 minutes of time.

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question: i was reading more about distances from from a p-trap to a vent based on pipe diameter. could you clarify something: is the horizontal distance to the vent simply from p-trap to the first vertical rise in the vent, or is it to the location where the vertical vent comes out of the roof? for me, it looks like the nearest line going out the roof is at least 12ft away and is 1.5" pipe. so, no good there if the interpretation of distance to the vent is the second one i listed.

thoughts? hopefully i'm clear enough in my description.
 
Just a heads up....abs is what you have there and many places do not carry it anymore. You can go from black abs to pvc without issue, but you need a rubber/hose clamp adapter.

For a vent, I'm sure bonding abs to pvc is no big deal. But if it going to get wet constantly, I'd make sure to use the right hardware.

I ran into this with my bathroom remodel. Had about 3 places where the old abs had to transition to the new pvc. I couldn't find one hardware store in 100 miles that carried abs.
 
All ABS here too. Stores are full of it. Weird, must be a NY thing?
 
ABS is the more common pipe used here also. Just looked for pros and cons of each. Longevity about the same but abs is apparently more forgiving in connecting.
 
after doing some more reading, i agree with the first vertical rise being the location for the vent. therefore, i'll have no issues with that and will simply tie into the old vent for the washer.

next question: i have copper pipe in the house. i don't care if i run copper or PEX down to the washer, but curious if there are any benefits to one vs the other. i don't mind the extra work the copper will take, so we can ignore that. would PEX be less prone to hammering?
 
water hammer is the buildup of water pressure when a valve closes fast and this initial pressure buildup doesnt care which pipe material you have. however, pex will tend to dissipate water hammer's pressure buildup because it can expand more than copper. but really water hammer should be arrested with air pockets or spring loaded bladder devices. I used both at my washer installation, but i used pex only because it is so easy!
 
PEX is more forgiving of freezing but light deteriorates it. There have been some reports of mice chewing on it.
I'm good at working with copper but its hard to match the ease of working with PEX.
 
All ABS here too. Stores are full of it. Weird, must be a NY thing?
Very strange. Must be.

I called a few places and they talked about abs burning more quickly and releasing very toxic fumes vs pvc. I can't imagine either of them burning is a walk in the park.
 
Very strange. Must be.

I called a few places and they talked about abs burning more quickly and releasing very toxic fumes vs pvc. I can't imagine either of them burning is a walk in the park.

Also, PVC turns to crap in sunlight so the part sticking up above your roofline will not only look dumb being white but will also break apart eventually.
 
Also, PVC turns to crap in sunlight so the part sticking up above your roofline will not only look dumb being white but will also break apart eventually.
Yup, I've used pvc conduit above the roofline or a fernco and switched to ABS.

Another thing about ABS is it seems that the fitting selection isn't as big as PVC. PVC has everything and ABS is limited or very basic.

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okay. i've rerouted my water lines to avoid having a drop-ceiling/soffit along the edge of the wall. i'm ready to cut the old drain and vent line, but want to double check things with the pros.

the drain from my kitchen sink (from the floor above) is on the left in the first picture. i plan to tie in a new washer drain line to that. this existing drain goes into the slab then runs to where the old washer drain tied in. at the old washer drain, a vent takes off into the attic. i eventually plan to tie back into this vent with the new washer vent.

my question is: is it safe to cut the old vent directly above the slab (with enough room to put on an ABS cap piece) and still have adequate performance of the existing drain? the existing drain has a vent right at the kitchen sink so i believe it to be vented well enough. seems like in both cases i have 1 drain for 2 elements (sink and washer) with 2 vents, just with the vents in different locations compared to the original.

thanks

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IMG_3057.JPG
 
You should check the new filter of the machine, since sometimes it also causes some issues. I used to clean its filter every week now it is function properly otherwise their were some plumbing I had to tackle early.
 
Replace that dryer vent pipe while its all apart with a solid pipe your dryer will thank you.
 
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