Latest and Last Mod to my Hampton HI300 Install

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jophysx

Burning Hunk
Apr 12, 2011
191
SW Michigan
I'm in my 8th year with my Hampton HI-300 insert. Since the initial install I've slowly upgraded my installation based on stuff I've learned on Hearth.com.

2010: Insulated the firebox a little (I was being very cautious back then)
2012: Insulated the firebox the rest of the way. Adjusted the door latch.
2014: Plugged the auxiliary air hole (although, in retrospect I am pretty sure the hold I plugged had nothing to do with auxiliary air supply).
2015: Installed a "block-off plate" (really I just stuffed Roxul up the flue). Adjusted the door latch again.

2016: This year I leveled out the base of the firebox with the shelf by adding a layer of brick. I talked about doing this with Durock in a post last year (https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/durock-for-leveling-insert.148134/), but when I went to actually do it I realized it would take many layers, and I noticed the height differential was exactly one standard brick. So I bought a bunch of bricks and lined the bottom of the firebox with them. Part of my motivation was to further improve the insulation of the firebox so I don't lose heat into the masonry. I am not expecting much of a noticeable change in the performance, but it makes me feel good anyhow.

I am also finally replacing my door gasket this year, since last year tightening up the latch didn't work very well and the door closed hard all season.

This will be the last modification for me, unless I read something new here on Hearth.com that inspires me. Maybe automated air and fan speed control using a Raspberry Pi?

-Jim

p.s. don't hold me to the specifics of the timeline. I don't really remember exactly what year I did what mod.
 
I'm in my 8th year with my Hampton HI-300 insert. Since the initial install I've slowly upgraded my installation based on stuff I've learned on Hearth.com.

2010: Insulated the firebox a little (I was being very cautious back then)
2012: Insulated the firebox the rest of the way. Adjusted the door latch.
2014: Plugged the auxiliary air hole (although, in retrospect I am pretty sure the hold I plugged had nothing to do with auxiliary air supply).
2015: Installed a "block-off plate" (really I just stuffed Roxul up the flue). Adjusted the door latch again.

2016: This year I leveled out the base of the firebox with the shelf by adding a layer of brick. I talked about doing this with Durock in a post last year (https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/durock-for-leveling-insert.148134/), but when I went to actually do it I realized it would take many layers, and I noticed the height differential was exactly one standard brick. So I bought a bunch of bricks and lined the bottom of the firebox with them. Part of my motivation was to further improve the insulation of the firebox so I don't lose heat into the masonry. I am not expecting much of a noticeable change in the performance, but it makes me feel good anyhow.

I am also finally replacing my door gasket this year, since last year tightening up the latch didn't work very well and the door closed hard all season.

This will be the last modification for me, unless I read something new here on Hearth.com that inspires me. Maybe automated air and fan speed control using a Raspberry Pi?

-Jim

p.s. don't hold me to the specifics of the timeline. I don't really remember exactly what year I did what mod.
Good hearing from you Jim (and fellow HI300 user):) I've learned a lot from your posts on this site over the last year since I had my HI300 installed last August. To provide my own update I recently had the dealer install a block off plate because while I love the Hi300 and believe it's a real workhorse...I believe I was losing too much heat to my 28ft exterior chimney when it got really cold outside (20's and below). I haven't burned this season yet as it's been too mild so far, but am really looking forward to feeling the difference in heat output into the living space with the BOP and truly seasoned wood in the firebox! Thanks for all of your very helpful posts last season with helping me learn how to use the HI300...they were greatly appreciated and soooo much more helpful than any advice I received from the dealer (who by the way emphatically told me a block off plate and insulated liner was NOT necessary). Anyway...hope you have a great burning season and will look for your posts as well as updating you on how things go with my BOP upgrade this season!
 
Thanks for the kind words. I really appreciate it. Please post back after you've had some experience with the block off plate. I think the block-off plate was the single best thing I've done to improve the performance of my Hampton. But it's not a miracle. All these little things each give slightly better performance and they all add up to getting the most out of the stove.

I have some wood that's been drying for over two years now at the back of my piles. Hopefully I'll get back to it this year and see if I notice a difference. For the shoulder season I've got some willow to use up that I just hated working with. Can't wait to get rid of it.

Good luck this year.

-Jim
 
Thanks for the kind words. I really appreciate it. Please post back after you've had some experience with the block off plate. I think the block-off plate was the single best thing I've done to improve the performance of my Hampton. But it's not a miracle. All these little things each give slightly better performance and they all add up to getting the most out of the stove.

I have some wood that's been drying for over two years now at the back of my piles. Hopefully I'll get back to it this year and see if I notice a difference. For the shoulder season I've got some willow to use up that I just hated working with. Can't wait to get rid of it.

Good luck this year.

-Jim
Good luck to you too...have a great burning season!
 
I can wait but cant wait to burn mine again, only used roughly 170gal of oil last year! Just swept mine and only pulled a half quart of soot out.
I would have installed mine by my self no matter what, but the differance was the knowledge i learned here that made it a much better install.
That smart stove control is so cool but i dont feel like pulling my insert again!
 
Since the fan is on all the time, I've thought it'd be nice to have an ECM motor, which is efficient and can be controlled very nicely.

And then there's this, lol:
http://inveninc.com/SmartStoveForum/index.php?topic=19.0
Hey Velvetfoot...I've read on this forum from time to time about Hampton HI300 owners having problems with too much air intake and over draft problems, etc. but I've never encountered that issue myself. Actually, with a 28ft chimney, my draft has always been very good & strong (sometimes like a jet engine), but I've never had problems with over firing the unit or run away temps. So I'm curious why anyone would need to modify the unit since the manufacturer must have designed it for top performance? So what am I missing here?
 
Packing it out with 8-9 splits and not shutting it down quick enough may cause it to get pretty hot with violent secondaries.

Any of you have rust on the front where door gasket seals? This insert was used/never burned when i got it, but it was a house on the water. I have alot of surface rust in the area the fan pushes air through, i stuck some pex in my vac and sucked out what i could.

I sanded front and painted, hopefully it stays this way and not something im gonna be doing evey year.

20161001_104509.jpg 20161001_115407.jpg
 
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Hey Velvetfoot...I've read on this forum from time to time about Hampton HI300 owners having problems with too much air intake and over draft problems, etc. but I've never encountered that issue myself. Actually, with a 28ft chimney, my draft has always been very good & strong (sometimes like a jet engine), but I've never had problems with over firing the unit or run away temps. So I'm curious why anyone would need to modify the unit since the manufacturer must have designed it for top performance? So what am I missing here?
I've never had a problem with controlling the fire, but I guess that smartstove thing is for people who don't want to fiddle with the air control rod, and because they can.
 
. . .So I'm curious why anyone would need to modify the unit since the manufacturer must have designed it for top performance? So what am I missing here?

I haven't made any significant modification to the stove. Just improved the installation with a blockoff plate, insulation, etc. But I think it is incorrect to assume that the manufacturer designed the stove for top performance. The design of the stove is a whole bunch of compromises to end up with a design that performs adequately well in a wide variety of installation conditions. If your installation is on the outer edge of the envelope of the targeted conditions, I would think the performance could be improved with some well-chosen modifications.

In my case I am pretty sure I am on the strong end of the draft range, and modifying the stove to allow me to throttle the air supply down to zero would result in better overall performance. The stove still works very well as is, but I think it could be even better.

-Jim
 
Once upon a time I thought it was located on the side opposite the door handle, as shown in this post (https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/hampton-hi-300-auxiliary-air-hole.132827/)

But now I am pretty sure that hole is irrelevant. Take a look at the Inveninc smart stove link and I think you can see how the auxiliary air is supplied.

-Jim

I believe the hole on the right side is for the handle on the air lever, maybe its on that side for people over seas!
Its in the same cavity as the aux air inlet so air does get sucked through it also
 
I haven't made any significant modification to the stove. Just improved the installation with a blockoff plate, insulation, etc. But I think it is incorrect to assume that the manufacturer designed the stove for top performance. The design of the stove is a whole bunch of compromises to end up with a design that performs adequately well in a wide variety of installation conditions. If your installation is on the outer edge of the envelope of the targeted conditions, I would think the performance could be improved with some well-chosen modifications.

In my case I am pretty sure I am on the strong end of the draft range, and modifying the stove to allow me to throttle the air supply down to zero would result in better overall performance. The stove still works very well as is, but I think it could be even better.

-Jim
Good points Jim. I guess in my situation that draft has always been very strong and I wouldn't want to ever change that. I've read a lot of posts on this site over the last year where some burners really struggle with poor draft a lot of smoke and smoldering fires, etc. In my mind that would be much worse than an overly strong draft...at least my mind.
 
Hi all. Does any one really know where this elusive auxiliary air intake hole is? I also would like to plug it off or at least block half off see if I can slow down my secondaries with air closed as well. Stove is amazing four years in and I keep finding ways to push it allittle harder every year
 
Hi all. Does any one really know where this elusive auxiliary air intake hole is? I also would like to plug it off or at least block half off see if I can slow down my secondaries with air closed as well. Stove is amazing four years in and I keep finding ways to push it allittle harder every year

Pull the fan out and look on right side. I just stuck a bolt that had a tight fit it there.
 
Someone on this thread is convinced that hole does nothing

Might not be much but it does suck air. Ive pulled everypart and probed micro stick lights through this sucka!
Place a flame near it with fan assembly out. If you were to extend the air block plate so every square inch was covered, this hole would be the primary feed.
 
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