Can't control the burn rate of a Alderlea T6 woodstove

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M

Marine

New Member
Oct 22, 2016
12
Northern California
I have a 2010 Pacific energy Alderlea T6 Woodstove that is getting too much air. Last winter I change out the
door gasket but failed to due the dollar bill check.I just opened a window when the house got too hot.
While getting ready for this winter I did the door check and it failed all around the door. I change the seal again
And it still wont seal. the top of the door is tighter than the bottom. I used a 3/8 inch gasket recommended by
the dealer. I also shimmed the door handle as it was loose. The door latch metal tab was bent under the handle. The only place the dollar wont slide out is on the top corner above the door handle.Thank you
2300 sq ft house
18 feet of pipe
 
Welcome. What kind of stove top temperatures are you seeing?

The door gasket is 7/16". One needs to be careful not to stretch it when putting it in. Is there any tension when pulling on the dollar bill or does it slip right out, almost on its own? Does the glass stay clean?
 
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There is pressure when pulling the paper on the top of the door but much on the bottom of the door.The glass is very dirty. I checked the glass gasket and it is worn out. I looked at a new aderlea stove and the latch catch is much more heavy duty than mine. Thanks
begreen said:
Welcome. What kind of stove top temperatures are you seeing?

The door gasket is 7/16". One needs to be careful not to stretch it when putting it in. Is there any tension when pulling on the dollar bill or does it slip right out, almost on its own? Does the glass stay clean?
Click to expand...
00
 
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Yes, the new T6 also has a completely different EBT system that is more effective.

Can you describe the lack of control? Does the fire get too hot? Are you trying to do low and slow fires?
 
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You might take off the door so you can eye-ball it to make sure it is flat, and not warped. More likely it's what begreen said, wrong-sized gasket and stretching it when you installed it. Also, if it were me, I always use OEM gasket, not the stove-shop stuff. That way, you know your are getting the correct density gasket that the stove maker wants in there.
 
Yes the fire gets too hot. Had to open windows to cool the house. When the outside temp got in the 20s
It work fine. The dealer advices me not to remove the door. I wish I would have checked if the door was warped before I changed the gasket. I can't figure how the door could warped . I was careful not to stretch the
gasket during installation. I used a Rutland gasket. I thought it should seal being only 1/16th of an inch bigger.
 
As a test you might want to try closing off the EBT air. The EBT feeds the boost air manifold. It's a shallow, black rectagular box in the front, just to the left of the air intake. A piece of metal tape or a large flat magnet can cover the 3/4" hole. Remove the ash pan first for good access. That won't change the door gasket issue, but it will reduce the air going to the fire.

Examine the EBT before covering. With the stove cold the hole should be closed with a metal flapper valve. If it's open that could be the issue.
 
If the top of the gasket is tighter than the bottom, it could also be that the bottom door hinge is worn and not holding the door in tight...check that too.
 
You can check the flatness of the door with it still on but it might be harder to see. You could use a level or some other proven straight edge.
 
I checked the wear on the door pin at the top is only about.010 of an inch while I was pushing up on
The door it move up and the door came right off, funny it was so simple. The bushing on the bottom
Pin is worn a little no big deal. Thanks too this great forum I will never have to change the gasket with
The door on the stove again!! Thank all of you. Hope this air leak thing gets figured out
 
Marine said:
while I was pushing up on the door it move up and the door came right off, funny it was so simple...I will never have to change the gasket with the door on the stove again!!
Click to expand...
I was wondering why the dealer told you not to take the door off. :confused:
 
Marine said:
I have a 2010 I also shimmed the door handle as it was loose. The door latch metal tab was bent under the handle.
Click to expand...
Can you get pics of that stuff? I'm not familiar with your stove so I have a hard time visualizing it.
Marine said:
I checked the glass gasket and it is worn out.
Click to expand...
Can you easily move the glass around? Might be time to get the OEM gasket kit, and go through all of them.
Marine said:
can't figure how the door could warp.
Click to expand...
If the stove has been over-fired, the door could be warped. But thinking about it, with a front-loading stove, I don't think the door would be as susceptible to warping as a side-load stove like mine would be. But now that you know how to take the door off, it wouldn't hurt to take a good look at it. You will be able to see any warping better, with the door lying flat on a table and you being able to move around it and look from different angles. Use a straight edge to more closely examine any areas that don't look flat (you shouldn't have to remove the gasket to do this.)
begreen said:
Can you describe the lack of control? Does the fire get too hot? Are you trying to do low and slow fires?
Click to expand...
blacktail said:
You haven't said why you think it's getting too much air. Is the stove glowing?
Click to expand...
Yeah, we need answers to these questions. Get a stove top meter ASAP. begreen can tell you where to place it to get a true stove top temp (you don't want it on the convection jacket, for example, but directly on the firebox if possible.) What does the fire look like after the load is burning well and you have cut the air. You should be able to adjust the air down so that there are lazy flames in the box and some secondary activity. When you cut the air, if you still have a lively or roaring fire, that ain't right. begreen would be able to describe what you should be seeing, since he runs the same stove...I've only run cat stoves.
 
The reason I think the stove is getting too much air is that the fire doesn't change too much when I close
Air control. There was a big change last winter, with about the same outside temps we Had to open the windows to cool the house down. It worked very good for 5 years. I wouldn't say there is no air control,
But limited. The door doesn't look warped. Monday I will order the door catch,door handle,bushing and pin
I will also try to get the oem door gasket.Last year the dealer had trouble getting it. Where do
I put the thermometer on the stove? I hope when I replace the bushing it changes the position of the door
Seals the door. Begreen on these stove should the door when closed stop the test paper from moving at
all?When I get it back together I will try post some pics(if the wife will help me) thank all of you for helping me.
 
There should be some resistance when pulling out the dollar bill but it doesn't have to be so much that you tear the bill. My door seal is not perfect at the bottom, but there is at least slight resistance when pulling out the bill.

I need to get out and look at a new Alderlea to see if they have changed the latching system and if so, is it retrofittable. It's not the strong point on the original design.

Here's where I have the stove top thermometer. It's positioned so that I can view it thru the trivet.
T6 thermo.jpg
 
I had a similar problem with my 2006 Summit.
I found that the flapper on my EBT was not in place and just laying in there. I also found some dead bees in there also.
Being you had control last year, I doubt the flapper is dislodged, but maybe something got in there and is blocking it open. I do highly doubt that though, because at cool, it should be closed, and no room for anything to lodge it open, during the time it was not used.

I will say this, you are using the wrong gasket. PE uses High density gasket, which is much more rigid than the Rutland stuff. It is also graphite coated which helps identify it. The HD gasket is much more dense, less fluffy, and does not compress like the Rutland does. Also due to the high density, it does not take as much pressure to seal. Don't think of the dollar bill as having to be yanked on to confirm good seal. All it need is a little resistance, and you can pull the bill through. As long as you can't literally wiggle the dollar back and forth, it is tight. But that is with high density gasket. I suggest using the correct thickness high density gasket. I cannot say for the T6, but the Summit used a more flat type gasket, not round.

One last thought, the Summit has a knife edge, not sure if the T6 does, but if it does, and you can see an imprint of the knife edge along the entire gasket area, you're getting a seal. It doesn't have to be deep, but def an imprint in the gasket. If it has a spot or spots that are not imprinted, those are the places to troubleshoot.
 
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Hogwildz said:
One last thought, the Summit has a knife edge, not sure if the T6 does, but if it does, and you can see an imprint of the knife edge along the entire gasket area, you're getting a seal. It doesn't have to be deep, but def an imprint in the gasket. If it has a spot or spots that are not imprinted, those are the places to troubleshoot.
Click to expand...
Good info Hog. One difference, the T6 door seal is not knife edge. It seals flat against the stove face.
 
Thanks begreen I will put the thermometer in that spot, I think the new improved door catch should help.
Also a new handle, the I have is jacked up. The roller is worn. Hogwildz I checked the EBT it was closed.But
I can't tell if it's connected to anything it pushes uneasy then fall back down. I also will order a oem
gasket. Thanks you all for the ifo
 
In these mild weather conditions I don't try for 24/7 burning. It's better to burn a half-load of wood and let the fire go out.
 
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In my quick perusal regarding potential overburn:

1. Regarding the door fit: note that there is 3 bolts on the hinge that holds the door to the stove body, there are slots on the hinge that allow the hinge/door to be squared up to the face of the stove - these bolts, and the fact that you removed the door to replace the gasket will be one of the first places to check and adjust the door fit, especially if it passes the "dollar bill test" on one area but fails in another part of the door. I would suggest to NOT over tighten the door latch adjustment, as this may lead to premature failure of the latching assembly ("been there and dun it") - latch assembly is not too hard to replace - again ("been there and dun it"), and agree that the door latch design is not that strong IMHO and if you adjust the latch too tight, it will cause it to fail.

2. Another area to check and possibly not mentioned above is the ash chute - it will leak - especially if you happen to use it ... you will notice a white hot area around the chute if it is leaking.

3. Plus reread anything the Hog and Begreen have mentioned above.
 
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madison said:
2. Another area to check and possibly not mentioned above is the ash chute - it will leak - especially if you happen to use it ... you will notice a white hot area around the chute if it is leaking.
Click to expand...
Good catch and tip! I never use the ash trap and forget this is a possible gotcha.
 
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