I am planning to install a earth stove in my home. I plan to run the stove pipe through my existing brick chimney.Talking to my pipe supplier he said to use either a stainless steel liner or galvanize 24 gauge pipe. Due to the cost and extent I plan to use the stove I plan to use galvanize. Most stove pipe I have seen installed is black and not galvanize. Is galvanize O.K to use or am I missing something?
Stove pipe
- Thread starter Heath
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webbie
Seasoned Moderator
Only stainless steel pipe should be used to reline chimneys. You will find it online or in local stove places or plumbing and heating supply houses. It is available in flex or rigid.
Galv or black can rot out in a few years and is not approved for installing or upgrading a chimney.
Make certain you have a pro or someone else with experience check the chimney to determine the condition of the bricks, mortar, tiles, etc. - the chimney is the real important part of the setup.
Galv or black can rot out in a few years and is not approved for installing or upgrading a chimney.
Make certain you have a pro or someone else with experience check the chimney to determine the condition of the bricks, mortar, tiles, etc. - the chimney is the real important part of the setup.
jtp10181
Minister of Fire
You do NOT want to even user a single wall galvanized pipe for a wood fireplace. Bad bad idea.
You need to use single or double wall black or stainless connector pipe from the stove to the thimble / crook. Then inside the existing chimney you can either use it as-is if it passes a Level II inspection and meets NFPA 211 guidelines, or you can drop down an insulated SS chimney liner. If you drop a liner it is easiest to put a Tee at the bottom with a removable snout.
You need to use single or double wall black or stainless connector pipe from the stove to the thimble / crook. Then inside the existing chimney you can either use it as-is if it passes a Level II inspection and meets NFPA 211 guidelines, or you can drop down an insulated SS chimney liner. If you drop a liner it is easiest to put a Tee at the bottom with a removable snout.
On my insert, I fabricated a stack connector to go from the stove up through the damper and transition to 8" round, 24ga. I did this because the opening on the stove is rectangular, and didn't want to pay $120.00 for the premade connector from Buckstove. It is 18gauge steel, and three feet high. From there it goes to the 8" round, which is galvi. Am I going to have problems later? I have a cap at the top sealing off the space between the masonry chimney and the round.
jtp10181
Minister of Fire
Well for sure at high temp the zinc in the galvanized will vaporize and for a toxic gas. I also remember reading something in the galvanized when in contact with the by products of wood combustion can produce toxic gasses as well. There is a reason all wood stove pipe you buy at the store has SS on the inside.
Plain and simple, galvanized pipe can't handle the heat and corrosion from wood stove combustion. 24 gauge black pipe doesn't handle it too well either. I replace my interior 22 gauge black stove pipe every three years because of corrosion. This year I went to welded 22 gauge that should extend the swap out to four or five years.
Wanna reline your chimney every two years. I don't think so.
Wanna reline your chimney every two years. I don't think so.
Thanks guys, I will have to talk with my supplier. Maybe he miss understood me, I sure am glad I asked.
Man Bart, you're burning some nasty wood. I pulled the 20 year old single-wall black pipe when I moved the stove and it was still in good condition.
BeGreen said:
Always used the snap lock Imperial crap from the hardware store. If I cleaned it and saw too much corrosion on the trash trailer it went. I may get longer use out of the Dura Black I installed this year. But even it is only warranted for five years.
Too many years seeing corrosion and internal friction in pipes create leaks and blow up refineries I guess.
2 years is about what most of the people I know get on the snap together black pipe around here.
I went with stainless all the way up from the stove and it is all supposed to have a lifetime warranty.
Simpson DVL to super vent class A.
It is easier to replace it on your time schedule and not let the pipe get a hole in the middle of winter fill the house with smoke etc.
I went with stainless all the way up from the stove and it is all supposed to have a lifetime warranty.
Simpson DVL to super vent class A.
It is easier to replace it on your time schedule and not let the pipe get a hole in the middle of winter fill the house with smoke etc.
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