Pellet Vent help needed!!

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Mohomeowner

New Member
Feb 3, 2008
14
MO
I'm new here so bear with me.

I am building a house and put in a Englander pellet stove....first pellet stove I've ever had. I had the builder install a Selkirk/Metalbestos L vent for outside venting and installed the outside air kit.

The pellet stove sits in a corner at an angle. I need a flex pipe to attach the stove to the vent system. Where can I get one? The Selkirk site isn't exactly friendly.

Thanks in advance!!!!
 
Flex pipe is for liners used with inserts. You need to use hard pipe, 45 elbows and slip sections if needed to hit the existing vent.
 
jtp10181 said:
Flex pipe is for liners used with inserts. You need to use hard pipe, 45 elbows and slip sections if needed to hit the existing vent.


Thanks for the response. I can't seem to get the elbows to match up with the pellet stove. I got a couple of adjustable elbows and couldn't get them to line up properly. I did attach some aluminum flex tubing (rated to 400 degrees F)to test the stove and it worked fine but I'm not comfortable with the setup. I checked the temp with a non-contact thermometer and the highest the pipe got was about 180 F. I just don't feel good about it and I want it to be right.
 
I have never seen an adjustable pellet elbow. Most have sealed joints to prevent smoke leakage. Pellet vent has a SS inner wall and must be type "L" venting. The SS flex liners for pellet vent are only testing as liners, thus there would be no way to know what a safe clearance would be when installed as you suggest. If you must use a flex liner get a SS pellet flex vent to use. I would recommend getting the proper pipe and elbows though. If it wont line up the way you have it now maybe you just need to pull the stove away from the wall a little to make it line up.
 
Mohomeowner said:
jtp10181 said:
Flex pipe is for liners used with inserts. You need to use hard pipe, 45 elbows and slip sections if needed to hit the existing vent.


Thanks for the response. I can't seem to get the elbows to match up with the pellet stove. I got a couple of adjustable elbows and couldn't get them to line up properly. I did attach some aluminum flex tubing (rated to 400 degrees F)to test the stove and it worked fine but I'm not comfortable with the setup. I checked the temp with a non-contact thermometer and the highest the pipe got was about 180 F. I just don't feel good about it and I want it to be right.


NO!!!!!!! do not use aluminum!! 400 degrees is below the max exhaust temps of that unit! (570F) selkirk should have a 45 degree fixed elbow to allow a "catty corner" install. remember also you need a minimum 3 ft vertical outside to help the unit draft clear in event of power outage, also , install the outside air kit provided with the unit, its important. make sure also that you follow NFPA211 guidelines for clearances to windows and other wall penetrations ,as well as the manufacturers instructions. if you have questions or need guidance on these codes and clearances , call my shop at 800-245-6489 and ask away.
 
Part of the problem is that the builder installed the vent about 3-4 inches above the pellet stove vent so I have to have more than one angle to get the pipe to match up.

I have at least 3 feet of rise outside the house.

I'll try to take a few pics and post them later.

Thanks for all the help!!
 
Raise the unit up 3-4" with a hearth pad or something. Otherwise rip the vent out and re-do it.
 
Mohomeowner said:
Part of the problem is that the builder installed the vent about 3-4 inches above the pellet stove vent so I have to have more than one angle to get the pipe to match up.

I have at least 3 feet of rise outside the house.

I'll try to take a few pics and post them later.

Thanks for all the help!!

This is why I have that large sheet metal plate over my wall thimble is to cover the TALL HOLE IN MY WALL
I have had several stoves in my home in the past 10 years
my hole in the wall is like a key hole

http://www.hearthtools.com/pellet/enviro/omegacorner.jpg
 
forgot to finish
Just remove the pipe threw the wall
Take off the wall thimble

Cut the hole in the wall to the hight you need and move
the pipe up or down

Put the wall thimble back
Used sheet metal the fill over the thimble so you have a clean fill in
 
I'm not sure if the Selkirk/Metalbestos is the same as the Selkirk Supervent pipe that I used, but if it is, you can buy adjustable lengths in 10" and 12" I believe.

These pieces will actually fit over adjoining pieces giving you a few inches of play.

This is what I used to resolve height issues that wouldn't allow me to exactly line up to the exhaust vent...just make sure you get them good and tight and tape the seams properly or else you may get smoke leakage.
 
Nickolai said:
I'm not sure if the Selkirk/Metalbestos is the same as the Selkirk Supervent pipe that I used, but if it is, you can buy adjustable lengths in 10" and 12" I believe.

These pieces will actually fit over adjoining pieces giving you a few inches of play.

This is what I used to resolve height issues that wouldn't allow me to exactly line up to the exhaust vent...just make sure you get them good and tight and tape the seams properly or else you may get smoke leakage.

This particular install only has 4" of difference
so this idea will not work.

Best to cut the wall and lower the pipe.
 
This particular install only has 4" of difference
so this idea will not work.

Best to cut the wall and lower the pipe.




Oh, I thought we were dealing with a lot more play than that. My idea wouldn't be the sound on then.
 
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