Pump questions?

Your 11 ft of head rating has a small relation for creating flow for your upstairs. Its your system pressure. .433lbs psi raises water one foot. Your gpm is affected with head loss and restriction. That is the resistance that your terminal devices have created in the system. RE: coil, pipe and fittings. I have been out of the residential side too long to answere your pex questions. Chek temp and psi ratings you will expose it to for sure & others can answere this. Your pump will certianly create flow. These pumps are only circulators and do not create pressure. Your feed water to the system creats the pressure that gives you the hight at
witch the htg water will be available to get to. Dinners ready so gotta go. hopes this gives you an angle.

To put that simpler... the height doesn't matter, in terms of pumping, because it's a closed loop. The water goes up one pipe, but it comes down another, so the two water columns balance each other. All the pump has to do is fight the friction in the pipe.

The 007 is probably fine for that. Since we're talking about friction, the bends and valves and fittings all come into play.

What size Myson heater is it feeding?

Joe

Is the stove an open or closed system? In other words pressurized or un-pressurized?

In a closed loop, pressurized system the circulator merely over comes the resistance in the piping.

hr

The insulated PEX with 2 1" lines runs somewhere in the 10.00-12.00 per foot for the burial stuff.

Graham said:

The myson unit is the whispa 2 9000 w recessed wall heater.

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Okay. 1/2" pex would actually be sufficient to feed that unit. Of course, going with larger pex is not a problem. Mostly just an FYI for anyone else who reads this.

Graham said:

My system is an open loop, I have a central boiler outdoor stove. I will have about 7 ball valves and 60 feet of 1" pex line in my basement plus another 30 foot run to my heater up stairs. I was thinking of putting a manifold on the discharge side of the pump have one arm go to the heater and the other one to my furnace and hot water heater, I'm just not sure if it would work or if the water would take the path of least resistance and stay in the basement.

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You're really going to need to install a heat exchanger between the open boiler and the internal system, which should be closed and pressurized. Without a pressurized system, any air bubbles that get in will percolate up to that fan convector. Once the loop is "broken," then you no longer have columns of water balancing each other, and you run into that problem with the pump not having enough head to force the water up that high.

All it should take is a heat exchanger, an extra pump, and an automatic feed valve (eg, Watts 911S). And whatever fittings you need to connect that up.

The only way that an open system is realistic to run is when the water line of the system is above the radiation. In other words, if the boiler was on a hill next to the house, so that the second floor fan convector was below (or very close to) the water line of the boiler.

Joe