I've done some searching and found some post about people using those 4x8 sheets of styrofoam insulation on their basement walls, however I looked at lowes website and most of that stuff is like an R3 rating, am I looking at the right stuff, and is it worth it with only an R3 rating?
styrofoam insulation on basement walls
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BubbRubb
New Member
I installed the polystyrene insulation that carries an R-5 value for 1" and it has made a tremendous difference on my basement walls. I have a walkout basement, so it is more subject to the temps outside than an in-ground basement.
I'll second the R-5 stuff (1 inch), it made a huge diffence in holding the heat from my stove. I think it is a great way to start if time/$ are a factor. Plus you then can stud over top and the hit it with more insulation at a later date.
Dougsey
Feeling the Heat
I used the blue stuff from Lowes, 2x4 tounge and groove sheets 2" thick. I'm going to build a 2x4 stud wall on top of that and insulate w/fiberglass.
1 1/2" to 2" seems to be common after looking on www.holmesonhomes.com website. i got 1 1/2" for utility room. you need to cover it with gyproc though.
Dougsey
Feeling the Heat
If the basement is completely underground, using insualtion top to bottom is not recommended. Insulation for the top 3 feet of the basement is all that should be done. Ideally, on new construction houses, insulation is actually placed on the outside, and no insulation is required on the inside.
BubbRubb
New Member
Buttaluv,
The panels I got from HD are tongue-and-groove and connect together pretty tight. You do not need to install a vapor barrier before studding out as Pook suggested b/c they are closed cell foam. If you want, you can put some duct tape over the seams for extra assurance. Make sure you don't get moisture on the walls or some DryLok might be in order.
The panels I got from HD are tongue-and-groove and connect together pretty tight. You do not need to install a vapor barrier before studding out as Pook suggested b/c they are closed cell foam. If you want, you can put some duct tape over the seams for extra assurance. Make sure you don't get moisture on the walls or some DryLok might be in order.
Flammam
Feeling the Heat
BubbRubb
New Member
Good point Flammam. THis stuff being exposed is not to code. It does need covered. However, if you want something quick and easy until you can stud it out and install additional insulation this is a good way to go. You lose very little square footage by studding out over top of the foam insulation.
cac4
New Member
how do you attach the foam to the concrete walls?
how do you attach the studs, if you do that too?
how do you attach the studs, if you do that too?
sinnian
Minister of Fire
mitchinpa said:
Any exposed concrete though would SUCK up the heat though, if the stove was in the basement. If you are just trying to "button" up the house though, then just do the top. Of particular importance is around the sill, bulkhead, and around the chimney.
cac4 said:
The "if you do that too" part makes me think your not intending to cover the foam, you might yake a small piece and put a match to it. You'll be amazed at how well it burns and the smoke it makes.
cac4
New Member
well, I'm not "intending" to do anything. I'm just curious how big of a project this would be.
rigid foam insulation: is it glued to the concrete? nailed?
yeah...studs get nailed. duh. I pretty much figured that. but...through the foam, into the concrete with concrete nails? or is just the sole plate nailed to the floor/top plate to the floor joists above? and if you're making a standard stud wall, why not just use regular fiberglass bats, instead of the foam board?
(I thought the point of using thin foam board was to not take up 4" of space along each wall).
rigid foam insulation: is it glued to the concrete? nailed?
yeah...studs get nailed. duh. I pretty much figured that. but...through the foam, into the concrete with concrete nails? or is just the sole plate nailed to the floor/top plate to the floor joists above? and if you're making a standard stud wall, why not just use regular fiberglass bats, instead of the foam board?
(I thought the point of using thin foam board was to not take up 4" of space along each wall).
cac4 said:
Glue it, I forget the name of the stuff, construction adhesive. I'm sure there are several brands out there. They come in tubes that go in a caulking gun.
geek
Minister of Fire
geek
Minister of Fire
I put liquid nail glue on the concrete walls before placing the foam, the foam is tongue and grove so that helps keeping them and stack them up together.
I then sealed the seams with foil tape as shown in the pic.
That made a big difference in the basement temp....and I'm just installing my Santa Fe in the space......
..
I then sealed the seams with foil tape as shown in the pic.
That made a big difference in the basement temp....and I'm just installing my Santa Fe in the space......
..
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