Company has previously helped, but this 3 month old stove is now dead and can't get my rep. Have replaced the room blower,bottom auger and have torn down and cleaned and checked all hoses, connections etc. several times. We have even reprogramed the control board which had it running really well until I had to shut it down to give it a good cleaning. Then it would light fine and run for an hour or so and go out with an E1. Then it would run only a few minutes at a time and E1. This morning I tore it back down and did the 'cleaning routine', put it back together and fired it back up. Ran great for 1/2 an hour and went into E1 and now the top auger stopped delivering pellets altogether. I tore it down and re-checked for dirty pipes, hoses,cracks,exhaust blower dirt, etc. The motor is fine. I switched the motor to the lower and it runs great. (put it back on the top). Ran diagnostics and still no top auger running. Any new suggestions that may help would be appreciated. Set up is basement with a 6 1/2' vertical run and then out 2', and the fresh air is the 3" pipe.
25 PDVE/55-SHP22E Wont Run At All
- Thread starter northerner
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slvrblkk
Minister of Fire
You can try bypassing (jump out) the pressure switch (actually vacuum switch) located above the control panel. I had the same problem and it was the switch. If you follow the upper auger wiring, it will lead to that switch. Just my $.02
stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
northerner said:
please call my shop at 800-245-6489,my staff will be there from 8-5 eastern tomorrow, and 9-12 saturday morning. when you get in , ask for "lenny" he is one of my best techs , tell him i need to get you a new pu-vs on the way , and to walk you through the checks for the door switch , i would have you call me but im not in the office again til monday. lenny will get you taken care of , please let him know that i sent you to him, and let me know if you are not up and running , we will get you fixed.
I assume you are talking about the door vac switch. How did you exactly go about bypassing it so the unit would run?
stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
northerner said:
ok, look at it like a face , the wire terminals would be like eyes and a mouth on a face , currently you have a wire on the mouth , and another on the eye on the right side of the switch, what you would do is move the vac hose from the rear (off white) connection, to the black front connection, then move the wire from the "eye" it is on to the other "eye" ill send you a diagram i drew up in paint , its crude but will work look in your PM box
Thanks Mike, for the explanation of how to do the switch. This wont hurt the stove any worse will it? I will call tomorrow as you said, and hope this is the culprit. We loved our first stove from the company and am sure we will like this one too. I did get a new nic-name out of the deal thou...Cinder Sue
Thanks so much for all and I will pull of the diagram too.
Thanks so much for all and I will pull of the diagram too.
stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
naaah wont hurt the stove none, all that switch does is stop the top auger if you open the door, as long as you remember not to open the front door and then leave to see a movie you will be fine 
make sure though you get up with my tech department as well though , they will help ya (or i'll tan their hides when i get back from hotlanta)
make sure though you get up with my tech department as well though , they will help ya (or i'll tan their hides when i get back from hotlanta)As many read these posts for help themselves, I wanted to update this string with the resolution to our original problem. The stove is fixed! Door Vac switch was not working and a simple error of the control board being programmed for the wrong year was corrected, and it is now running great! We have gone from burning 2-2 1/2 40lb bags of pellets in a 24 hour period, to buring a total of about 45 - 50 lbs total with excellent heat! Thanks Mike and Lenny.
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