Ideas for better design on Eko, Tarm, Econoburn, Garn, etc.

On the EKO, I'd like to see some 1/2- and 3/4-inch tappings for things like TP gauges, aquastats, pressure relief valve, etc., like on a conventional wood-fired boiler. Craig has pointed out that these types of things can shorten the life of the boiler (because of corrosion at the welds, unnoticed leaks from components, etc.), but I still think they would be useful. I'd also like to have a separate probe on the controller for monitoring the temp at the return tapping, so that you could use it to run a recirc pump or mixing valve for low return water temp corrosion protection. Some sort of glass viewing port for checking out the flame in the secondary combustion chamber would be useful as well.

Minor stuff. I think the big improvements came with the Super version of these boilers (turbulators, mechanical hx cleaning assembly, trough-shaped refractory in the main firebox) and most recently, the new controller made for the North American market. Wish I had the new controller on mine.

I'm not real sure what should be changed but I'm wishing someone made a real "fill and walk away" gassifer that you could reliably fill only twice a day. That would be so nice.

My ideal EKO would be my model 25, but about 18" taller. 12" more height in the primary chamber so it could take a bigger load, and 6" more in the secondary chamber so that you could have a better combustion labyrinth and ash removal system.

This would almost double the current 21" height of the HX tubes running up the back of the boiler, and increase the water jacket area as well.

And it would have my controller and poor man's variable speed pump ;-)

On my econoburn, the PRV valve was located under the hood of the boiler. Makes it tough to access when needed to be replaced. We drilled a hole through the top and put the PRV valve above the hood. Also, on my 100,000 the fire box has two 1 1/2" metal pieces running horizontal above the refractary. I assume they are to protect it, but I got almost all of my bridging this year from them. They actually make the box smaller at that point and when you want a good full load, it tends to pinch there. Also would like to see a few more controls for the fan and would like to be able to set the temp for the circ pump. Right now it is set at 135-on, and 130-off.

This applies to all brands:
A built in moisture meter that tests the wood. Ideally it would lock the door and not let you load the boiler if MC was over 25%

Seriously, I'd like to see ALL the manufacturers come up with an application guide that would give basic piping diagrams for different systems that the boiler may be connected to. So many of these poor boilers get a bad rap from being piped and controlled poorly that I think the manufacturers would do themselves a very long term favor in getting that type of info out to the people who are installing their products. Recommendations of pipe diameter, system control, recommended operating temperatures all that kind of stuff gets no mention in many of the manuals I've looked at or downloaded.

I wish the garn with all its external surface area had a "breadbox" type of wood dryer for the next load, maybee with heatermans built in moisture meter. I guess it is large enough already, most of us have or are working on beating the life out of diagnostics and monitoring for our systems. maybe someday there will be a true wood combustion monitoring/manipulating system for optimum effiency.

I'd be interested to know if two or three oxygen sensors could be employed in a similar manner as they're used in a car to provide feed back (with temperature probes) on the combustion process and adjust the speed of the blower for the optimum amount of oxygen.

Don't know if that has the potential to increase combustion efficiency or not. I suppose there isn't a tremendous danger in running a lean mix in a wood boiler, but any extra air just acts a thermal mass to carry heat up the chimney.

I'd like to see a handbook for dummies burning gasifiers. It would cover all the basics on what to do and what not to do. What to expect and how to get out of the OWB mentality. It would cover how to pipe it up, storage (types, why's, how), dry wood, adj.,and troubleshooting. All the dealers and manufactures would have to read and study it and would pass it out to all owners.
Oh what the heck, maybe Ill just print every thing here and make a million bucks
leaddog