storage construction

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

ssfein

New Member
Jun 2, 2008
14
coastal maine
Has anyone thought about using ferrocement for a storage tank? Cheap to build---easy to to vary size--- one or two walls of basement already there. Any issues of waterproofing?
ssfein
 
Very Interesting:
http://www.green-trust.org/2003/ferrocement/default.htm
I'm all thumbs when it comes to concrete, with me welding is where its at. I like the idea of angle iron re-inforced plywood in the basement corner with a pond liner.
Really undecided about everything concerning storage. My TarmSolo 40 is coming any day now and if there is one thing I know for sure, you never can have too much wood. I'm cutting and splitting for year 2009-10
 
There are a few on this forum that have concrete tanks. Some cement blocks reinforced with rebar, etc. Someone used a new concrete septic tank. I plan to enclose a corner of my basement using two existing walls and adding cement block walls tied in to the floor and existing walls and reinforced with rebar. This design falls within my comfort zone. If you are experienced with ferrocement, that might be a good option for you.

EPDM pond liners are popular because of their cost. If you can make a self contained tank that doesn't leak, then a liner may not be needed. However, the cement will hold heat as well and needs insulation around it.
 
STSS sells the 1000 gallon tank for $2300.00 Its an awful lot of money but the tank looks good, is very convenient probably has somewhat of a guarantee
I'm not saying I definitely will but if I can save a bundle on the plate HX or homebrewed copper coil, I might go with the STSS tank.
 
We have a daylight basement and a few years ago I had 12' of the wall torn out because it rotted (with two stories on top of it). Wish I'd slid a tank in then...

Our MB-Solo 55 was made in 1978 and it just damps down and smokes pretty much all Winter unless temps fall below zero. I've sent for STSS info a couple times but the prices just kill me, plus the collapsible tank will keep me awake nights for the first 4 years until I'm convinced it isn't going to live up to it's name.

I was just talking about blocks/rebar/EPDM with wifey this afternoon. I'm thinking about moving the oil tank out of the corner and doing the same thing.
 
"plus the collapsible tank will keep me awake nights for the first 4 years until I’m convinced it isn’t going to live up to it’s name."

I like that!!
 
How about building your own stss style tank.I just bought 20 gauge galvanized 4x10 sheetmetal.Form a circle,rivet,then epdm liner.way cheaper than stss.Still undecided on the hx
 
That's another thing I was thinking about, Jr. Last night I was wondering what the heat loss would be out through the two uninsulated basement walls - I suppose the best thing to do would be to insulate the interior of the basement walls with rigid foam and lay the EDPM up against it.

On the sheet metal tank idea - I guess it's basically an above ground pool and there are obviously poorly maintained pools like that all around New England going through freeze/thaw cycles yearly and still standing. It sure would be fast to fasten one together and line it. I might study seam making a bit beforehand and not just stab a handful of Wal Mart aluminum rivets along the seams and call 'er good. I'm thinking some kind of folded lockiing seam with steel plates over it inside and out riveted through. There's also that nice method TARM uses for the exterior sheetmetal - slipping a flattened C shaped locking piece down over the folded sheetmetal edges.
 
I think a good option would be to use some 2x12's turned horizontally. Then bolt them together in the corner where they meet. This also always a space to put a lot of cheap insulation - negating the need for more expensive foam insulation. It is also a lot easier and quicker then using concrete. It is probably a lot stronger too. I would a wall of concrete wall would be pushed over more easily than you could stress a 2x12. Any thoughts anyone?
 
Yeah that outside wall might take some heat away. So maybe some small 1/2 line blocks would work to give me a 3" gap that i could fill with foam.
 
Most people constructing concrete tanks with liners are putting insulation on the inside. It doubles as a smooth surface for the liner to rest against. The first layer of insulation should be polyiso because it can take the high temp.
 
I am using 2 layers of 2inch polyiso inside of my tank, which is half below basement slab, half wood frame above slab. I put the epdm inside of the polyiso. The polyiso is fairly fragile when it comes to very localized pressure, like getting bumped or being stood on, but can easily support the water pressure since it is so spread out. When I had to get inside the tank I would put some scap pieces of polyiso on the floor and stand on them to avoid damage. This past weekend I put in the epdm and filled the tank almost full. Everyhting looks good so far, although it will be a bit of a challenge to deal with the excess epdm in the corners. I think I am going to use hose clamps to bunch them up tight in each corner, then cut off the excess above the water line. I plan on posting pics soon...
 
free75degrees said:
I am using 2 layers of 2inch polyiso inside of my tank, which is half below basement slab, half wood frame above slab. I put the epdm inside of the polyiso. The polyiso is fairly fragile when it comes to very localized pressure, like getting bumped or being stood on, but can easily support the water pressure since it is so spread out. When I had to get inside the tank I would put some scap pieces of polyiso on the floor and stand on them to avoid damage. This past weekend I put in the epdm and filled the tank almost full. Everyhting looks good so far, although it will be a bit of a challenge to deal with the excess epdm in the corners. I think I am going to use hose clamps to bunch them up tight in each corner, then cut off the excess above the water line. I plan on posting pics soon...

can't wait to see the pictures.


I am torn about putting the storage in the house or out in the detached garage where the burner is. If the water has a smell or goes bad i don't want the house stinking up if it is in the garage no big deal tell i can get the water back in check. But i also have the major heat demand in the house not the garage.

House is 3400sqft
garage is 800sqft.
 
Having it in the house may require less insulation if it is in at least a partially heated space and as you said it is closer to the demand for heat. I don't think the water would get that funky. If you use coils, keep a sump pump around to drain it with. If you use a plate hx like I am going to do, putting a purging valve after the pump that pulls water from the bottom of the tank would probably allow the pump so empty the tank as well.
 
WoodNotOil said:
Having it in the house may require less insulation if it is in at least a partially heated space and as you said it is closer to the demand for heat. I don't think the water would get that funky. If you use coils, keep a sump pump around to drain it with. If you use a plate hx like I am going to do, putting a purging valve after the pump that pulls water from the bottom of the tank would probably allow the pump so empty the tank as well.

The garage will be heated too.

I will just lose a little heat on the run to the house. I am thinking i might try and use radiators from a car in the water they are cheaper the plate HX but we will see i know you can get some pretty good deals on plate HX off ebay.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.