In the picture of your opening is that horizontal stud what you are talking about as 46 in. high?
Look what I found when I tore my old fireplace out.
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BeGreen said:
excellent reply man, I understand what you are explaining and thats what I was seeing in my head. I guess weather the chase is there or not is irrelevant since it's got much more clearance than is needed so it's a non issue. The only problem I see with that is how to access the chase from the outside to clean out the "T" but thats an easier problem to solve from the outside and for another day. In the chase area I assume I can use the galvanized double wall correct?
rdrcr56 said:
No I'm referring to the beam that can only be seen from inside the chase that is towards the top of the wall.
Well I guess I cant picture the framing of your wall, so what I'm trying to get across is that where the ceiling and the wall meet that is where the load bearing joist should be, you should be able to remove the wall that was above your old fireplace up to close to the ceiling.
rdrcr56 said:
You are correct, we are seeing the same thing in our head, just explaining it different. That load bearing joist is what is in the way of me getting my proper clearances for an alcove set up. No worries man thanks for your help.
I got delayed on working on my fireplace but am back at it now. I have constructed the hearth pad out of 2X4 construction (14" on center) with 1" plywood on top and facing the front of it. (it is a raised hearthpad) My plan is to now put 2 layers of durock on this plywood, the the thinset and the hearth stones/stone veneer. I will have have all the proper clearances per my stoves manual. Before I continue, would you agree or disagree that so far I am doing this correctly?
Actually it appears (see chart from hearth.com below) I could easily use only 1 sheet of durock on the hearth pad. My stove manual states I need floor protection equiv. to 3/8th" millboard and an r value of .446. I could use only 1 sheet of durock on my 1" plywood, and then put the stove veneer on that and still be over the requirements. Correct?
Considering that at some point in the future you might want to upgrade the stove, perhaps build it slightly oversized and over-spec? If you agree, put a layer of micore on top of the plywood, then a layer of sheetmetal, then a single top layer of durock. Screw the sandwich together per durock's recommended interval. That would give you a more future-proof hearth for just a few more bucks.
BeGreen said:
Well I can tell you we are talking about building a home in about 2 years so this will be our last hearth construction here. There is zero chance of us upgrading the stove in this home. I must admit I was rather surprised at how small of an r value this stove needed but I must remember it is a small stove compared to those that some of you guys have. As always thanks for your reply!
fossil said:
OK, so I have 1" plywood, 1 sheet of durock, then hearth stone and mortar and I only need .446 for my r value. Well I feel I am operating safely by proceeding. Thanks man.
Not sure why you keep mentioning the 1" of plywood. Plywood's a combustible. All the required insulative value needs to be between the stove and the combustible. The plywood has nothing to do with the required r-value of the hearth. Just wanting to make sure I understand. The mortar buys you next to nothing, and I'm not sure what you mean by hearth stone, but if it's some sort of stone veneer, than it doesn't have much r-value either. Rick
Rick, thanks for waking me up - firelion, is this for the Century 27007 stove? I assumed you were following the manual which now that I re-read it calls for R.893 or better on the hearth. So far you have only R .52. If you go back to my original instructions you will be good to go.
Are my docs in conflict with your's?
EDIT:
Argh! Documentation department please! Now I see what you are seeing too. And it says .446 for the same 3/8" millboard. So you are OK as you are following the stove specifications.
Are my docs in conflict with your's?
EDIT:
Argh! Documentation department please! Now I see what you are seeing too. And it says .446 for the same 3/8" millboard. So you are OK as you are following the stove specifications.
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BeGreen said:
Yes they do conflict my docs. I am looking right at it and the portion os the 3/8th inch millboard and the floor protector must have a min. r value of .446. Would the legs versus pedestal have anything to do with this?
actually I think the leg/ped. thing is the difference. If you look on the image you put up, up in the top left hand corner you will see a pic of your stove and the clearance pic to the roof. Yours shows the stove with legs and mine with the stand.
No, see above post. This is a mess up with Century's documentation or you have a different model. What is the correct model number for your stove?
You can go by the specs you have. If questioned, you have the paperwork to prove it.
You can go by the specs you have. If questioned, you have the paperwork to prove it.
BeGreen said:
Well, thats good but is this a major safety problem or what? How do I know my paperwork is correct and not yours or vice versa?
Follow your paperwork - what the exact model of your stove. The higher hearth R value is for the 27007.
BeGreen said:
I have the fw240007 and it says that on the sticker on the back of my stove. The manual says for either 0007 or 0008.
That probably explains the difference. Earlier on I asked if this was the 270007 and got an affirmative. It seems the 270007 is a bigger stove and requires a bit more protection. Sorry for the confusion. It doesn't explain the confusing language of the docs, but you are covered. Just screw that sucker together and put your heater on it.
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