question about firewood

Split it and put it in the sun, that stuff dries fast

fadetoblack72 said:

...if I cut/split wood in early summer and let it sit for a month and then stack it in my barn will it be dry enough to burn that winter?

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Depends. (I know, that's always my answer, sorry). But...you'll have the best success if you leave it out exposed to the elements as long as you can before moving it inside to shelter it during the burning season. Rick

Poplar drys fast but it needs the right conditions. Spilt it small and expose it to full sun and wind and it may be ready in 3-4 months.

I no that every one likes to burn wood that has been seasoned for a year but I was at the wood pile today spliting last years rounds for this winter.I have 2 cord + I need 4 more cord I no im going to cut some trees down between now and thanks giving and burn them this year . It seems like the wood drys real fast once it gets cold . I just cover the top of the stack

My rule...If it's dry burn it! I don't necessarily worry about when it was cut, but the moisture content. If you are worried you should look into a moisture meter, IMHO.

I have never had a problem with any of the wood I burn......oak, cherry, maple, elm, pine,....as long as it has been split and stacked in the open sun and air the hottest part of the summer (June-August)......That includes standing live trees.....

I think you can get it to burn but it won't be an enjoyable experience, you'll have to work it...

...and it won't put out the heat you expect either. And you're on the right track keeping it outside as long as you can...maybe with this wood you could just leave it outside on pallets with just the top covered so it will continue to season.

With wood like that you don't really want to try for any long burns because of the creosote build up. I suppose if you 'had' to burn that wood keep the fire on the hot side and load often.

fadetoblack72 said:

Cool. Thanks for the advice guys. I've herad that burning wet wood causes a lot of creosote. Just want to be sure.


J

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You heard correctly. Less than properly seasoned wood (in varying degrees of moisture content) can all burn.......especially once you build up a good bed of hot coals. As others have stated, you won't get all the heat potential out of wetter wood, and you will have to clean your chimney more frequently.

But it will still be cheaper than oil (currently), and you will be warm. As someone elses stated...."you've got to do what you've got to do".

We cut and burn a lot of tulip poplar here. I have some that was dropped and spit only back in May and most of it's ready to burn now.

I split some poplar about three months ago. I just got a Avalon Rainer installed and wanted to see how it burned. The poplar took off like it was dry kindling. Get it split and in direct sun and you should be good by November. I would leave it outside untill then

He means that when you load it up for a longer, unattended burn, using wood that is not properly dried will not burn completely and smolder. It's a real pain and will build up more creosote in your chimney.
The first year I burned, I bought wood advertised as seasoned. Trust me, you will know when you burn if your wood is not properly dried.

^yup.

Good luck Fade.....bought my house in Dec '02 and it came with the stove I have now.......buying it in December required a quick learning curve, and I made a lot of newb errors. I wish I had known about this site then............wood burning can become an obsession, but it is a great physical workout if your not the gym type

green still standing wood burns every Summer in California.
You really need to go cut a branch off a tree in January and do a comparison burn.
It's all really relative unfortunately.

Even a comparison burn will be somewhat subjective unless you have two side-by-side stoves to sit near.

Crappiest-->crappier-->crappy-->good-->better-->best.