Hey, all,
I have the tiniest gas-powered wood splitter I’ve ever seen.
It is a 5 h.p. Sears (engine code date 1981, appears to be original engine). The I-beam is LESS THAN 3” x 2.5”! The overall length, counting the tires, is about 5.5’. The stroke is only 19 and ¼”.
Yet I’ve split rounds up to 24” and it doesn’t get stuck all too often. I just whittle away at the edges on the big ones. It definitely beats hand splitting!
It was given to me not too long ago, and had no spark—I cleaned the carb, changed the tank, got it running, used it awhile, then spark went away, and it sat outside. Now I’ve gotten it going again (corroded condenser wire) and I’d like to change the hydraulic oil.
Question 1: What Type of Hydraulic Fluid Do I Use?
What is in the tank (which is no bigger than a lunch box) appears to be ATF—Type “U” for “unknown.” LOL.
I already have some hyd. oil for my trencher I’d like to use. It is:
Napa Anti-Wear Hydraulic Fluid
AW-32
85-905
I’m assuming the “85-905” is a Napa part number, because it sure isn’t as thick as 80-90W gear oil; nor is the oil in the splitter particularly thick—as I say, it appears to be ATF, in that it’s pinkish—I fear it may have water in it, however, so I would like to change it.
The Napa stuff I have is clear and/or yellowish in color.
Question 2: How Do I Drain the Hydraulic Fluid?
a) The hoses to and from the tank are crimped on; I’m not sure I can cut the crimp off w/o damaging the hose, but if I were successful, will I be able to keep the hose on with a std. hose clamp? I’m assuming the hose leading TO the pump, at least, is under low pressure?
b) Is there someplace else to drain it from? The only “fittings” on the thing are up high, on the valve body and ram, and thus, would not drain much, if at all.
c) I’m assuming the ram should be all the way retracted, for draining? Or is there the same amount of fluid in a double-acting cylinder, regardless of position?
d) I’m assuming I will only be able to change the fluid in the tank, and that what’s in the cylinder and valve body will stay in there, to be mixed with the new fluid and (partially) changed next time?
Question 3: If There’s Water in Fluid, Will It Damage the Pump?
I’m assuming there’s water in the fluid, what with hydraulic fluid being hygroscopic, and this splitter being outside, probably for years--plus it looks a little "milky". If I run it as is, and there IS water in it, will I damage the pump?
I will try to post pics later, but I do not know how to resize them.
Thanks again,
I have the tiniest gas-powered wood splitter I’ve ever seen.
It is a 5 h.p. Sears (engine code date 1981, appears to be original engine). The I-beam is LESS THAN 3” x 2.5”! The overall length, counting the tires, is about 5.5’. The stroke is only 19 and ¼”.
Yet I’ve split rounds up to 24” and it doesn’t get stuck all too often. I just whittle away at the edges on the big ones. It definitely beats hand splitting!
It was given to me not too long ago, and had no spark—I cleaned the carb, changed the tank, got it running, used it awhile, then spark went away, and it sat outside. Now I’ve gotten it going again (corroded condenser wire) and I’d like to change the hydraulic oil.
Question 1: What Type of Hydraulic Fluid Do I Use?
What is in the tank (which is no bigger than a lunch box) appears to be ATF—Type “U” for “unknown.” LOL.
I already have some hyd. oil for my trencher I’d like to use. It is:
Napa Anti-Wear Hydraulic Fluid
AW-32
85-905
I’m assuming the “85-905” is a Napa part number, because it sure isn’t as thick as 80-90W gear oil; nor is the oil in the splitter particularly thick—as I say, it appears to be ATF, in that it’s pinkish—I fear it may have water in it, however, so I would like to change it.
The Napa stuff I have is clear and/or yellowish in color.
Question 2: How Do I Drain the Hydraulic Fluid?
a) The hoses to and from the tank are crimped on; I’m not sure I can cut the crimp off w/o damaging the hose, but if I were successful, will I be able to keep the hose on with a std. hose clamp? I’m assuming the hose leading TO the pump, at least, is under low pressure?
b) Is there someplace else to drain it from? The only “fittings” on the thing are up high, on the valve body and ram, and thus, would not drain much, if at all.
c) I’m assuming the ram should be all the way retracted, for draining? Or is there the same amount of fluid in a double-acting cylinder, regardless of position?
d) I’m assuming I will only be able to change the fluid in the tank, and that what’s in the cylinder and valve body will stay in there, to be mixed with the new fluid and (partially) changed next time?
Question 3: If There’s Water in Fluid, Will It Damage the Pump?
I’m assuming there’s water in the fluid, what with hydraulic fluid being hygroscopic, and this splitter being outside, probably for years--plus it looks a little "milky". If I run it as is, and there IS water in it, will I damage the pump?
I will try to post pics later, but I do not know how to resize them.
Thanks again,
