looking to buy a add on wood furnace

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

jakep

New Member
Aug 10, 2008
19
pa
im wondering what you guys recommend i have a 90%furnace now and i want to add on the wood system to get rid of these heating bills.also i have a chimmney i would have looked at it is only brick i dont think it is lined with anything is this ok to burn wood?thanks jake
 
i saw those they have them at farm and tractor supply for 1150 dont no what quality they are hopefully some people will chime in on there experinces with there add on wood furnace.
 
I have a Yukon/eagle Big Jack. I love it. Had it for 3 winters. I heat @ 3000 sft.

Paul
 
Tomorrow I'm picking up a US Stove wood add on that I ordered. I wanted Englander's wood furnace, but when I was getting ready to order it from Home Depot, the price jumped up over $400 from what it was 5 days earlier.

I had a 1970's wood/oil furnace up until two years ago and it heated my house wonderfully. So wonderfully that I never appreciated it until I froze through the past two winters with oil. Aside from needing to light the wood myself with the new furnace, I'm hoping it gives me similar results to what I had before.
 
what about the chimmney do i need to run stainless duct work in it if it is just brick?
 
If it's an old brick chimney that doesn't have a clay tile liner or is in bad shape you need to line it.
 
jakep said:
what about the chimmney do i need to run stainless duct work in it if it is just brick?

I'm lining my chimney with a flex stainless steel liner. It appears fine as it is, but I'd rather be safe and have it lined. I got the liner off ebay and my father is installing it.
 
I don't know what your budget is. U.S. Stoves seems to be the lowest price, which was the main factor for me. Englander was just a bit more before the price changes this season. The in store prices might be much lower, but I didn't want to wait for my stores to get them in stock so I went with the U.S. Stoves furnace. If my budget had been bigger I would have probably gone with a Yukon Big Jack or the PSG Caddy EPA furnace.
 
what does everybody think the better stove is the us or the englander i also saw the fire chief wich was fairly cheap im heating 1400 sf any info would be great thanks.
 
i have one of there furances this will be my 2nd season works good no problems
 
JoshF said:
Im planning to buy this one as long as it will work with my existing ductwork. I can get it for about 1200. The dealer is coming this week to look at placement and give me a price on installation.

http://www.usstove.com/proddetail.php?prod=24AF


I am looking at the same furnace, the Ashley 24 AF, by US Stove. I haven't been able to find any reviews for this furnace and am wondering how well it works. Do you have any info regarding the efficiency and build quality of this product? I'm also wondering how much wood will be required to operate this furnace throughout the winter. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
 
Woodchuck by Meyer manufacturing.

I bought an Englander add on 13 years ago and it only lasted 6-7 years . With the manual drafts it's hard to control. Easy to overfire.
I bought a Woodchuck to replace it . LOVE IT. Forced draft and even heat. Thermostatically controlled.
If I were you I would pay the extra buck and get good one by Yukon or Woodchuck.
 
Thanks for the info. The one that I am looking at, Ashley 24 by US Stove, has a forced draft and is thermostatically controlled as well. I'm just concerned about the amount of wood it will use throughout the winter.
 
If you have good season firewood the ashly 24 sould be in the 4.5 to 6 cords a year if your going 24/7 poor or unseaon wood will be doulbe i used 12cords last year in the 1537m but it was very poor unseason wood for the most part the asley 24 is a little smaller better built stove than the 1537 and can do your hot water as well.You should be quite please with it
 
Thanks for all the info! I will look into the Yukon and Woodchuck furnaces as well and compare them (and their prices) to the Ashley. The Ashley is currently selling for approx. $1,900.00 inlcluding the hot water coil insert. I'm not sure if either the Yukon or the Woodchuck are in that price range. Any suggestions on where I could find these furnaces for a good price?
 
4 years ago when I bought my Woodchuck I had to go through a dealer but Yukon offered factory direct shipping at that time. I paid $1975 at the time for model 526 and I think the Yukons were a couple hundred more.
 
LEES WOOD-CO said:
Woodchuck by Meyer manufacturing.

I bought an Englander add on 13 years ago and it only lasted 6-7 years . With the manual drafts it's hard to control. Easy to overfire.
I bought a Woodchuck to replace it . LOVE IT. Forced draft and even heat. Thermostatically controlled.
If I were you I would pay the extra buck and get good one by Yukon or Woodchuck.

Can you explain what the forced draft does in simple terms? I just read the instructions for the draft induction kit I can get for the US Stove furnace I just bought. It sounds like it would make this furnace function like my old oil/wood combo furnace in that I would have a thermostat upstairs. That furnace was 25+ years old and came with the house so we never really knew how it worked, it just did until the heat exchanger cracked and I had to replace the furnace. My old thermostat had a wood/oil setting where the oil part would only turn on if the house temp got 5 degrees below what we set it at.

There was some sort of contraption on the front of the furnace (in between the ash pan and the firebox door) that would come on occasionally and lift a small hood thing with a chain that I think must have been an automatic damper which controlled the draft? I found where I can get the draft kit for the US Stove furnace for $160 and it sounds like it will make the furnace much more efficient by controlling the fire and make it easier for me to use.
 
it helps you control the fire,and produce more heat when you need it with the thermostat located away from the furance its self.I have it on mine works pretty good.
 
http://www.woodchuckfurnace.com/

I just bought the 2900. I haven't installed it yet but I have it and I'm quite impressed with the quality. It goes in this week or next. I have a furnace guy coming to do up the plenums and putting in a heat pump too.

The little thing with the chain was just what you suspected. When the thermostat calls for heat the motor openes the damper to let air into the firebox. The fire gets hotter and the limit switch in the plenum trips to tell the blower to come on. The blower runs until it cools it down around the firebox and the damped closes and the the limit switch hits its lower limit and shuts the blower off. The fire burns very low until heat is needed again. The forced draft works the same way except that it is a small fan blowing air into the firebox like a set of bellows. This get that fire kicking a lot faster So less fluctuation between the cold dips (when the thermostat is calling for heat and waiting for the fire to pick up) and the hot peaks (when the draft closes and the blower finally shuts off). The chain deal is called an automatic draft and the fan is a forced draft.

Hope that helped.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.