Building my Hearth Pad

Res5cue · Aug 27, 2008

Building my hearth pad before my pipe comes in and I get to install that. I figured I’d show some pictures of the process since I have no skill and I’m trying this on my own. These things are up to $300 a pop and nobody really has a bunch of extra cash hangin around so I just figured I might encourage a few people to give it a try.

I took my measurements, then asked the “boss”, my wife, what she liked. We came up with this size for the corner where the P38 is going to sit. Now up front I will say my local code enforcement is an anomaly, and they required that I have a layer of cement board under the tile. This provides the UL listing they so desperately require. I cost me $10 and I would loose the fight so, end of story. Here is my progress so far.

First I cutout the plywood, then when satisfied with it, used it for a template for the Hardyboard.

It was recommended I place a skim coat of Thinset mortar between the plywood and H-board to prevent air pockets. I also used stainless screws to fasten the two together. Although you can tell I didn’t do a great job by the pic with the skim coat near the edge. I don’t know if I’d do that again.

Next I’ve started laying the tile. The pieces missing are going to be marked and cut at a buddy’s house. He has a wet saw and can show me how to use it.

Well that’s it sofar…I’ll update it as I go.

Panhandler · Aug 27, 2008

Res5cue said:
Building my hearth pad before my pipe comes in and I get to install that. I figured I’d show some pictures of the process since I have no skill and I’m trying this on my own. These things are up to $300 a pop and nobody really has a bunch of extra cash hangin around so I just figured I might encourage a few people to give it a try.

I took my measurements, then asked the “boss”, my wife, what she liked. We came up with this size for the corner where the P38 is going to sit. Now up front I will say my local code enforcement is an anomaly, and they required that I have a layer of cement board under the tile. This provides the UL listing they so desperately require. I cost me $10 and I would loose the fight so, end of story. Here is my progress so far.

First I cutout the plywood, then when satisfied with it, used it for a template for the Hardyboard.

It was recommended I place a skim coat of Thinset mortar between the plywood and H-board to prevent air pockets. I also used stainless screws to fasten the two together. Although you can tell I didn’t do a great job by the pic with the skim coat near the edge. I don’t know if I’d do that again.

Next I’ve started laying the tile. The pieces missing are going to be marked and cut at a buddy’s house. He has a wet saw and can show me how to use it.

Well that’s it sofar…I’ll update it as I go.

Heck, should be a piece of cake for you. I just put one in on a hundred year old wood floor and I'd never laid tile before. Drove me crazy, worried to death about getting it level. Thought about each move 50 times more time than it took to do each move. Especially skim coating floor to level it under cement board. Turned out good. And remember that it's just a hearth, it won't take the beating of heavy traffic. Good luck!

kinsmanstoves · Aug 27, 2008

Sweet tile. I did my bathroom floor and shower with the same color. I did not pick it out the wife did.

Eric

j00fek · Aug 27, 2008

great start, im looking to start this project soon

does anyone have any ideas on where or how to cut your tiles if you have no wet saw?

DiggerJim · Aug 28, 2008

j00fek said:
great start, im looking to start this project soon

does anyone have any ideas on where or how to cut your tiles if you have no wet saw?

Cakewalk for the kind of straight cuts that the pad would need - just get a hand tile cutter (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...angId;=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100345564). It works like cutting glass - score it and then snap it. The lever action on this thing makes it easy to snap them but you could do it by using the hand tile cutters that are out there but I'd expect to break a few since those are better suited for small tiles. You can also get grit wheels that go in your circular saw or miter saw or even tile cutting rods --- none of which are needed for straight cuts along edges. Just go with the lever action manual tile cutter - $23.

Res5cue · Aug 28, 2008

Heres some:

Google Books, The Complete Guide to Ceramic & Stone Tile
______________________________________________________________

Plus from Builder Bill

Ceramic Tile Cutters

Ceramic tile tools - A simple glass cutter will cut many tiles.
At the most basic, the simplest way to cut a ceramic tile is by scoring the glazed face of a tile with a glass cutter. Using a straight edge or a square held firmly on the tile, a straight scratch mark or score is made on the surface.

A small piece of material is placed under the score, and hand pressure is applied the either side of the tile. If the score was done correctly then the tile will snap along the score mark.

A tip when using glass cutters, for glass or ceramic, have a small container of kerosene or other such light oil, and dip the tip of cutter into it every few cuts. This seems to make for better cuts. Either by just cleaning it of lubrication, I don't really know, but it works.

Ceramic tile tools - A tile cut with a cheap glass cutter.

In the image above I placed a carpenter's pencil under the the tile.

Say I wanted to cut only 20mm off the edge of the tile. I would score the surface with the cutter, and then hold the tile down firmly with with my left hand with the bit to be cut off overhanging the edge of my bench. With my right hand I would snap the tile at the mark with a pair of nips or pliers.
If you look at the glass cutter, the notches in the side of it are for doing the same thing with different thicknesses of glass.
As the piece to be cut off gets smaller, I take smaller bites out of it with the nips.

It is quite possible to do small tiling jobs with no other tool for cutting the tiles. Typical splash back jobs only have a few cuts.

kpereyra · Aug 28, 2008

j00fek said:
great start, im looking to start this project soon

does anyone have any ideas on where or how to cut your tiles if you have no wet saw?

I bought the $88 small wet table saw from Lowes. I'm going to rent it out to my friends for $25 a pop to recoup my outlay. I'm sure I'll have another tile job at some point and it's always nice to get a new toy.

hoverfly · Aug 28, 2008

kpereyra said:
j00fek said:

great start, im looking to start this project soon

does anyone have any ideas on where or how to cut your tiles if you have no wet saw?

Click to expand...

I bought the $88 small wet table saw from Lowes. I'm going to rent it out to my friends for $25 a pop to recoup my outlay. I'm sure I'll have another tile job at some point and it's always nice to get a new toy.

You can get them cut at lowes for free.

bungalobob · Aug 28, 2008

I am building my own hearth as well, but I am going to build it in place though. Unless you are going to put in the mortar between the tiles after you have it in place, there is a chance of the mortar cracking while moving the hearth. I realize you have built it solidly but any twisting or bending will crack the mortar. Plus make sure your floor is level as well to avoid the same thing. Not an expert myself, but I have seen cracks develop where a floor is unstable. Good luck, make sure to post finished project.

j00fek · Aug 28, 2008

thanks for the replies, now i feel alot more confident about doing this

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Building my Hearth Pad

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Feeling the Heat

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