Leak test tank before insulating

Leak-test using air. Air will find leaks that water won't. If it won't leak with air at room temp, it won't leak with water, even at higher temps.

Joe

Air takes a long time to fill just like water but you can't heat it up and change the temp of those weld and the steel. Also air is the most dangerous if something lets go that's ALOT of volume and you dont want to be near that when she blows. Be safe and do it the sure way and run it to its max temp to make sure at running temp you won't get leaks. Then insulate trust you might live longer and sleep better

sdrobertson said:

So what your suggesting is that I hook up everything and then put 30 lbs of air into the system as this is what the pressure relief is set at? I guess that makes more sense than having to drain the tanks if I have to change a fitting. This is why I love this forum.

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Test to 20psi max, and you'll be fine. Instructions are below...

Anything Plumber said:

Air takes a long time to fill just like water but you can't heat it up and change the temp of those weld and the steel. Also air is the most dangerous if something lets go that's ALOT of volume and you dont want to be near that when she blows. Be safe and do it the sure way and run it to its max temp to make sure at running temp you won't get leaks. Then insulate trust you might live longer and sleep better

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Don't sit next to the piping/tank while testing. We're talking about fairly low pressures, here. I usually test piping at 70psi, and the only injury I've ever seen result was when an apprentice decided to show up late for a job, and just cut into a pipe without even letting us know he was on the job. He got a couple small cuts on his hand from the "air knife" that escaped that slice.

For a tank like the one described, bring the pressure up to 5psi, and watch it for 15 minutes. If no leaks, bring it up to 10psi, and watch it for 15 minutes. If it's fine at 10, then take it up to 20 and watch it for 30 minutes. That is the safest way to do it, and saves re-pressurizing it to the full pressure, if you find any leaks at the lower levels.

Don't try to pressurize it and leave it overnight or something, thinking it will be a better test. The thermal changes will change the pressure, and render the results meaningless.

You may also want to isolate portions of the system, and test them independently. That saves pressurization time, if you have to release pressure on one section to fix a leak.

Make sure to remove and plug any automatic air vents!

Joe