General advice for burning wood and biobricks

mclaughlindw4 said:

I am going to be burning wood, biobricks and nightlogs this winter and was looking for general advice as I have limited experience using wood stoves. Last winter I had burned a cord of seasoned wood in the stove and I feel like I had a unusual amount of creosote in the stove. Part of it was probably from me burning at too low of a temp in an attempt to conserve wood. If I could get some advice or some references to threads that are related to general burning of wood and biobricks in a regular wood stove that would be great. One question i have is... what should the temperature I am burning at be? I have a magnet thermometer, but am not sure where to put it (ie on the stove or on the stove pipe) and what the temp I should be aiming for. Also if there was any general advice or threads I could be pointed to for sweeping chimneys ( I have a sweep already). Thanks in advance for any help.

David

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BioPellet said:

mclaughlindw4 said:

I am going to be burning wood, biobricks and nightlogs this winter and was looking for general advice as I have limited experience using wood stoves. Last winter I had burned a cord of seasoned wood in the stove and I feel like I had a unusual amount of creosote in the stove. Part of it was probably from me burning at too low of a temp in an attempt to conserve wood. If I could get some advice or some references to threads that are related to general burning of wood and biobricks in a regular wood stove that would be great. One question i have is... what should the temperature I am burning at be? I have a magnet thermometer, but am not sure where to put it (ie on the stove or on the stove pipe) and what the temp I should be aiming for. Also if there was any general advice or threads I could be pointed to for sweeping chimneys ( I have a sweep already). Thanks in advance for any help.

David

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If you bought a product that says "BiO" on it but does not say that it is licenced from BioPellet Heating Systems then it is not a BioBrick(tm).

on to your question - please see BioPellet.net - instructions

If you have smoke in the chimney you are wasting energy and creating creosote. You need a fuel like BioBricks(tm) that is very consistent, reaches combustion temp throughout the firebox and is completely burned up at the end of the day.

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BeGreen said:

I'd stay away from the stuff that has anything added, especially wax. A good compressed wood product will have no additives.

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sonnyinbc said:

BeGreen said:

I'd stay away from the stuff that has anything added, especially wax. A good compressed wood product will have no additives.

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Well, I was just guessing? what binds that stuff together then?? just the heat??

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sonnyinbc said:

BioPellet said:

mclaughlindw4 said:

I am going to be burning wood, biobricks and nightlogs this winter and was looking for general advice as I have limited experience using wood stoves. Last winter I had burned a cord of seasoned wood in the stove and I feel like I had a unusual amount of creosote in the stove. Part of it was probably from me burning at too low of a temp in an attempt to conserve wood. If I could get some advice or some references to threads that are related to general burning of wood and biobricks in a regular wood stove that would be great. One question i have is... what should the temperature I am burning at be? I have a magnet thermometer, but am not sure where to put it (ie on the stove or on the stove pipe) and what the temp I should be aiming for. Also if there was any general advice or threads I could be pointed to for sweeping chimneys ( I have a sweep already). Thanks in advance for any help.

David

Click to expand...

If you bought a product that says "BiO" on it but does not say that it is licenced from BioPellet Heating Systems then it is not a BioBrick(tm).

on to your question - please see BioPellet.net - instructions

If you have smoke in the chimney you are wasting energy and creating creosote. You need a fuel like BioBricks(tm) that is very consistent, reaches combustion temp throughout the firebox and is completely burned up at the end of the day.

Click to expand...

wrong. You need a density of 1000 kg/m3 or more for quality. Some briquettes are not made to that quality. (the machines run faster if you turn down the density) If you have a low density briquette you stand the chance of overfiring - just like if you burn KD scraps

And you are working for?/ for goodness sake, bio bricks, bio briks, etc. if it is compressed fuel for the stove or insert it is fine, just burns hot and clean. Stupid trademarks mean diddly squat, unless you are trying to sell the stuff. I buy my bio-bricks from a place not more than 30 klicks up the road from me. sawdust, and wax and shavings, etc.

Get a grip!!

Also, I like to mix that stuff with my ordinary cord wood for best results. Don`t let anyone try and sell you on trade names, that is just marketing crap!!

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Kennebec said:

So if biobricks are all natural after all, then is there any reason why they could not be used in a wood cook stove or in a dutch oven?

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Adirondackwoodburner said:

I have an outfitters/hunting tent that I ahve a woodstove in. The stove is made of steel, 16ga maybe? Not very heavy, its for packing in on your back. anwyays, we typically hike to our spot every summer and split downd branches etc and stack for ouor sotve come November. This year I was thinking about toting in a few of these biobricks for good measure to be mixed in with the other split stuff. I was planning on sawing them into quarters and adding them that way. Does this sound reasonable? I wasent planning on using a whole biobrick in it because of being too hot for the type of stove..Oh yes, I forgot to mention that I add in actual stove brick on the bottom of the stove and sides to protect the steel and keep overal heat much better.

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