What's your take on this rig ?

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bostonbaked

Feeling the Heat
Jul 27, 2008
250
New Hampshire
I don't agree that this guy invented this. I saw this or some variation of it many times. What do you folks think of this? I was toying with the idea of making one. I have the perfect set up for this if you think it would work. It will cost next to nothing to make but I don't want to waste my time. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRZvAAqzXIw
 
Having looked into so many alternative energy and heating sources/ideas I do remember seeing that before (there is so much you can learn just by watching videos on YouTube). Like many great ideas this one seems basically foolproof. For a minimal investment you can make a much smaller version of his design, perhaps 6 columns of 10 cans (for example) just to see how much difference there is in the temperature of the air going in compared to the temperature of the air going out.

What some fail to realize is that even a difference of 5° to 10° can be a significant gain, especially if it doesn't cost you a penny other than for building such devices.

You've actually sparked my interest in such a device and perhaps I may give it a try as well.

Steve
 
Just what I was thinking. I have a true south facing wall in my living room and it seems like a natural. I have a neighbor who wants to build one as well. It looks like a fun project. Once you start looking at these things it's like eating peanuts, you just can't stop.
 
This may not be the original inventor but he's doing a great job and his product looks functional and cheap to manufacture. I believe there are plans for solar collectors similar to this in the old Mother Earth News issues. A lot of these ideas have been sidelined by peddlers of cheap energy but the ideas are still as sound as the ever were. This looks like it could run even without a forced air fan on a thermosiphon principle. (although the fan probably makes it much more efficient heater). I think you should go for it if you have the ability and place to do it. Wasting time is a relative thing anyway, beats watching TV.
 
Gumbo, Thanks for another vote of confidence. I am going to make a couple with a neighbor. We are going to start gathering the cans and give it a go. Like you said it's better that looking at the tube.
 
Ductape said:
What does he use to hold the ans together?
Good question. I was wondering myself. That might be a very important element with regards to efficient heat transfer. I`d have to think it would be best to maintain continuity / integrity of the aluminum tube.
 
Gio, I believe he uses high temp silicone like we use on our stove vents. This is some information that I found about it, " The Cansolair Solar Max 240 consists of a four by seven solar collector (28 Square feet, or 2.6 square meters). Solar Max 240 has 15 vertical columns of cylindrical shape, making the actual surface exposed to the sun greater than 2.6 square meters.The same cylindrical shape allows the Solar Max to receive solar radiation for a longer period due to the angle of incidence of the sun hitting the solar panel. Peak BTU performance was observed during the noon hour period in October 2001 wherein the temp rise was 50 to 54F degrees resulting in a 9000 to 9720 Btu or 2636 to 2847 Watts. Peak BTU performance will actually increase in colder weather due to the rise in temperature between input and output temperature and a lower angle of incidence. The Solar Max 240 has a quick response rate of 8 minutes from the appearance of sun to “cut-in” based on 100 degree F output temperature. Solar Max 240 uses the most conductive black paint available for solar collectors. Solar Max uses a lexan outer cover which allows sunlight in and is resistant to the elements."
 
Back in the 70`s / early 80`s I built a 4 X 8 ft hot air solar panel out of curiosity and I think I recall getting something like 180 degree air temps out of it in direct sunlight on a typical summer day of 75-80 degrees . Of course the temps are relevent to the amount of air pushing thru it but it does work. I never connected it to the house but I had fun experimenting with it.
I used 3/4 " aluminum fins painted black . All stuff came from a local junk yard. Excuse me, ( reclamation center)
 
bostonbaked said:
Gio, I believe he uses high temp silicone like we use on our stove vents. This is some information that I found about it, " The Cansolair Solar Max 240 consists of a four by seven solar collector (28 Square feet, or 2.6 square meters). Solar Max 240 has 15 vertical columns of cylindrical shape, making the actual surface exposed to the sun greater than 2.6 square meters.The same cylindrical shape allows the Solar Max to receive solar radiation for a longer period due to the angle of incidence of the sun hitting the solar panel. Peak BTU performance was observed during the noon hour period in October 2001 wherein the temp rise was 50 to 54F degrees resulting in a 9000 to 9720 Btu or 2636 to 2847 Watts. Peak BTU performance will actually increase in colder weather due to the rise in temperature between input and output temperature and a lower angle of incidence. The Solar Max 240 has a quick response rate of 8 minutes from the appearance of sun to “cut-in” based on 100 degree F output temperature. Solar Max 240 uses the most conductive black paint available for solar collectors. Solar Max uses a lexan outer cover which allows sunlight in and is resistant to the elements."

Very interesting indeed! Thanks.
 
That sure does look interesting. One question would a person have an intake on the bottom say a 3 inch pipe with a 3 inch main going across the bottom and then off of that pipe say a 2 inch pipe would go into every row and at the top a 2 inch pipe comming out of every row into a 3 inch main then into the house? This does look like it would be fun to try to make, some basement workshop fun, except for the can painting.
 
This is pretty interesting. Nothing about price on their website.


Also, this is from their brochure:

Model RA 240 SOLAR MAX
The Model RA 240 SOLAR MAX is extremely environmentally friendly. It consists of recycled aluminum cores are modified to have 3,000 hand cut fan blades.


What do you think the "3000 hand cut fan blades" are?
 
From what I have been able to gather the unit installed is in the neighborhood of $2200- 2500. That's why I'll build my own. The fins are found on some designs. The idea of the fins is to create turbulence and slow the flow of air up through the can columns. This allows more heat transfer to the air. The top and bottom of the unit has a space of around two inches to the bottom of the rows of cans which are glued to the insulated box with a bead of the high temp. The design in the video has the cans drilled out top and bottom. I believe he drills the bottom using a hole saw that is small enough to remove just the concave section of the can. This I believe creates the turbulence by having a baffle effect. The FINS as far as I can tell are created by using a small chisel to punch an X in the bottom of the can and pressing the flaps in in such a way to create a fin. I'm not 100 percent on some of this because they don't disclose all their secrets. There is a four inch inlet at the bottom ducted through the wall. The inlet is at baseboard level. Cold air is pulled in. The outlet at the top is done the same way to send the heat into the room. Some have muffin type fans run by cheap harbor freight $25-30 solar battery chargers. This is a unit offered by Northern Tool, Big money but shows another version. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200328805_200328805
 
I've been curious about building something like that for my woodworking workshop. 24x24x8 with R19, heats pretty easy but like wood, I like free heat. Can't put a wood burner out there either. Insurance doesn't even like my gas furnace out there.
 
Hoverfly, I visited your link. Not signed up so I couldn't see your photos but I like the Aluminum ducting idea as opposed to collecting and joining cans. You will have to share your findings about the Lexan. I wonder if I can recycle a glass insert panel from an old storm door as my glazing and build the collector to that dimension. Any thoughts on that? I think it's tempered glass so I think it would be OK from a safely standpoint. I'm really getting jazzed up on this Idea. I have been sitting on my patio all morning and that side of the house is bathed in sunlight most of the day. I was thinking of making a swivel mount to be able to turn the unit to follow the sun throughout the day. It would be nice if you could post some of your photos.
 
Ductape said:
What does he use to hold the cans together?

High temp silicone is expensive. Regular silicone caulking is a fraction of the cost, and labeled to be good up to 400 degrees. However, would it not insulate each can from one another? This may or may not be desirable. Do you really need to adhere them together? I wonder if just stacking them one on top of another, and securing the top and bottom can in each "tube" would be sufficient. That would allow all the cans to work together as one mass of aluminum, instead of isolating each can.

He should have painted the whole thing black... every little bit helps
 
bostonbaked said:
Hoverfly, I visited your link. Not signed up so I couldn't see your photos but I like the Aluminum ducting idea as opposed to collecting and joining cans. You will have to share your findings about the Lexan. I wonder if I can recycle a glass insert panel from an old storm door as my glazing and build the collector to that dimension. Any thoughts on that? I think it's tempered glass so I think it would be OK from a safely standpoint. I'm really getting jazzed up on this Idea. I have been sitting on my patio all morning and that side of the house is bathed in sunlight most of the day. I was thinking of making a swivel mount to be able to turn the unit to follow the sun throughout the day. It would be nice if you could post some of your photos.

Lexan has been used on other people's projects, it not hard to cut, it's not heavy or dangerous as with glass, it's actual stronger than glass this is the same stuff for bullet resistant glass, for the do it your self it's the next best thing. Your old storm door will work just fine as long it's not low E glass used to reduce energy loss or prevent uv passing through. Actualy a doubble pane with out the E glass works better. Face the panel on the north side of the house or at an angle on the roof and it will be fine.
 

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Face the panel on the north side of the house or at an angle on the roof and it will be fine.[/quote]

Hoverfly, I assume you mean face south, in this hemisphere ;)
 
orangecrushcj7 said:
Ductape said:
What does he use to hold the cans together?

High temp silicone is expensive. Regular silicone caulking is a fraction of the cost, and labeled to be good up to 400 degrees. However, would it not insulate each can from one another? This may or may not be desirable. Do you really need to adhere them together? I wonder if just stacking them one on top of another, and securing the top and bottom can in each "tube" would be sufficient. That would allow all the cans to work together as one mass of aluminum, instead of isolating each can.

He should have painted the whole thing black... every little bit helps

You don't want moist air in the panel it's important to have the cans sealed. The high temp stuff actually will last longer, better quality. I am not impressed with the regular stuff but my test panel will tell. If you spend 300 bucks on the panel what is a 13 dollar tube of high temp? A drop in the bucket.
 
orangecrushcj7 said:
Face the panel on the north side of the house or at an angle on the roof and it will be fine.

Hoverfly, I assume you mean face south, in this hemisphere ;)[/quote]

Yes a good point, you think?
 
You don't want moist air in the panel it's important to have the cans sealed. The high temp stuff actually will last longer, better quality. I am not impressed with the regular stuff but my test panel will tell. If you spend 300 bucks on the panel what is a 13 dollar tube of high temp? A drop in the bucket.[/quote] Thanks for your earlier reply on the glass issue. I agree with you on the sealant as well. I figure so much of this will be found items so I won't cheap out on the glass or sealant. I'll check around for the Lexan. Do you think the high temp black stove paint will do the trick? BTW thanks for the photos
 
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