to install or not to install a flex liner

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LONDONDERRY

Member
May 23, 2008
133
New Hampshire
So here is my situation. I have a 1402 Napolean stove insert in my fireplace. The dims of the flue are 6-1/4" x 10. The chimney is 15' tall. The cly tiles are not perfectly stacked one on top of each other. I wanted to use a 6" diameter flex liner, but because the tiles are offset, I don't think I can snake on down. I contact Napolean and asked if a 5-1/2 can be used, they said they would not reccomend undersizing because my chimney length is at the minimum code in length. NExt I called two stove shops and they said that because the flue tiles are small to begin with I don't need a full lenght liner and to just run a 6 foot length of flex liner into the chimney and make a bottom block off plate and have a rain cap and everything should be fine. I have the oppertunity to buy a 16' ss flex liner from Z-flex for $85.00. But I can't make a decision if what I'm going to do is correct or not, so I need some advice is 6 ft length of flex liner is okay or not.


Thanks
Frank
 
Firstly, if you need 15 feet and get 16, you might end up like me: I thought I needed 19, I got 20, and came up a liiiiiiittle short. Everyone with any experience suggested I get 25 ft. So take my advice, 'cause I'm sure not using it. (On the other hand, $85 bucks is not a lot of scratch for 16 feet, so it might be worth a shot - was that an ebay deal? I paid $400 for 20 feet!)

You might be able to ovalize your 6inch and squeeze it through, but the offset tiles will be a pain - use a pulling cone and a friend.

Everything on this forum suggest the halfway-up option makes sweeping a real chore, I would think especially for an insert.
 
I'd be very tempted to get the 16' and try to ovalize it. You'll lose a little cross section, and it may adversely affect your draft. I had a similar install (Napoleon 1402, 1 story chimney), and it didn't draft for c&*p. The best thing would be to get a rectangular liner, but it might cost $85/ft, instead of $85 for the whole shot.

Steve
 
Another option, although much more work, is to remove the flue tiles with a heavy steel plate offset on a drill rod with several rod sections to knock out the flue tiles. Then the 6" liner will slide right in and you can insulate it to code. I do this often in cases like you have described for customers to make sure the install is correct and safe.
 
So now a different issues. I purchased the liner last night. There was a 6 foot section that came with it. I ovalized it a bit and snaked up the chimney from the heart, what a pain. So then I was going to connect it to the appliance connector and it turns out that the stove collar is close to the dampener housing. So because the dampener has a angle on it I can connect dirrectly to the stove because of clearance issues. Any suggestions?

Frank
 
It sounds like you may have to remove the dampener to achieve the clearance neccessary. This is common on many firplace insert installs.
 
estreeter34 said:
It sounds like you may have to remove the dampener to achieve the clearance neccessary. This is common on many firplace insert installs.

I was thinking the same. Not to get comfused, we are not talking about removing just the dampener plate, which I did, bu also the housing. I don't know if I can do that because its been cemented in at the flanges.
 
London:
You are right about the "housing". Sometimes a oxy/acet. torch is required. Most of the time I can get enough room by cutting it with a sawz all or circular saw with the right blades. Just keep in mind you want the proper clearances.
 
Well I was thinking th esame. Using a Sawzall and cutting out sections of the damper. However, before I do that, I'm thinking about seeing if a adjustable elbow and seeing if that works out okay, I'll start simple first. However, if I want to remove the damper throat, how is that done? I've removed the plate


Thanks
Frank
 
Removing the throat may be tough, as you said it's cemented in. I had a similar situation, and just cut the middle section out of the front piece. Started with a sawzall, but found a hacksaw easier (thanks to Brother Bart on that).
 
branchburner said:
Removing the throat may be tough, as you said it's cemented in. I had a similar situation, and just cut the middle section out of the front piece. Started with a sawzall, but found a hacksaw easier (thanks to Brother Bart on that).

Well I just called the CFO (Chief Family Officer aka Wife) and I was basically told to try the adjustable elbow first. I'll see how this goes if it does not work them out come the power tools. Its reasons like this I never say or argue with some one when they say "how hard can it be" or "piece of cake"


Frank
 
I had the same problem. I decided to remove the old Cast Iron dampener with a sawzall it came out pretty easy, and if I ever remove the stove I'll put a more efficient top dampener in.
 
So last night I installed a 6 ft long section on flex liner up the flue. to connect it to the stove was the hardest part. I had to buy a adjustable elbow fitting. After figthing with it and the wife as well I finally got it connected. So now I hav to make the block off plate. I was thinking alot about what everyone has posted about a liner installed the full length. Next year I will do that not because the flue tiles are cracked but because the ease of cleaning. However, I have too much on my plate between work and other house repairs and car repairs as well. So does anyone think this setup of snaking a 6 ‘ section of flex liner in a 6 x 10 flue tiles with a block off plate be okay for one burn season?

Thanks
Frank
 
I think this is only half fixing the issue. I'll put it this way...If you have 4 bad tires (all flat and unrepairable) are you going to replace only 2?
I also understand the issue of time and money. Personally I would not do this for a customer. Just my .02
 
LONDONDERRY said:
So does anyone think this setup of snaking a 6 ‘ section of flex liner in a 6 x 10 flue tiles with a block off plate be okay for one burn season?
Burn dry wood and keep an eye on creosote buildup.
 
branchburner said:
LONDONDERRY said:
So does anyone think this setup of snaking a 6 ‘ section of flex liner in a 6 x 10 flue tiles with a block off plate be okay for one burn season?
Burn dry wood and keep an eye on creosote buildup.
All the wood I have is 8-10 months old, so its been seasoned. We plan on cleaning the stove once a month when the colder weather sets in. I realize that I'll have a ton of work cleaning the stove, and chimney, because I basically have to pull it out once a month to clean everything out. I would be doing this regardless. However, I tried snaking a flex liner all the way down from the top. I spent 2 hours and basically unless I undersize to a 5-1/2 flex liner I'm not going to be able to do this. Why?, because the flue tiles are offset which seems to cause the liner to hang up, even if I ovalize the liner. So I think I might be stuck with what I have, but I'll try again in the spring
 
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