What does "between the windows" mean when installing Pellet Vent

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donkarlos

New Member
Oct 5, 2008
66
MA
I have read how the pellet vent must not be within 48" of a window (unless 1' above) but I would imagine mot everybody can put a pellet stove in a corner of there house so naturally many must be between two windows.
My install is in my basement in the middle of the far wall and the only spot away from the windows is about a one foot section, shich should work perfectly but I am not sure about the "do not install between two windows" rule.
thanks
 
You can install between two windows, The (termination) of the vent (weather cap) must be 48" away horizontally from any window or door opening. If that's not possible then you can extend the pipe to 12 " above the opening. You can also go farther away from the house to get the clearance you need. You must also be a certain amount above grade. I also installed in my basement. If I kept the vent close to the house I was just at 48". I added a one foot section of pipe heading away from the house and then had 57". I am right between two windows which are above.
 
great news. that makes total sense. so in MA we need to be 3' above grade ?
We don't have to be a certain distance vertically from the windows (in our situation) ?
Additionally, do you know if HD on south shore rents those core bits to drill through concrete block? thanks so much.
 
I would recommend checking with your code enforcement officer when you go to pull the permit. It will go much smoother if you speak with the inspector up front and tell him how you plan on doing your install. That way you will know that he approves of how you are doing it and there should be no surprises on the inspection. I do believe per NFPA 211 that if you install an ouside air supply for your stove it would be considered direct vent and you can install it 9 inches from an opening for an appliance up to 50,000 btus, or 12 inches over 50,00 btus. Your fresh air intake needs to be 12 inches from the vent and the vent will need to be 12 inches from the ground. Good luck with your install.
 
Firefly Hearth said:
I would recommend checking with your code enforcement officer when you go to pull the permit. It will go much smoother if you speak with the inspector up front and tell him how you plan on doing your install. That way you will know that he approves of how you are doing it and there should be no surprises on the inspection. I do believe per NFPA 211 that if you install an ouside air supply for your stove it would be considered direct vent and you can install it 9 inches from an opening for an appliance up to 50,000 btus, or 12 inches over 50,00 btus. Your fresh air intake needs to be 12 inches from the vent and the vent will need to be 12 inches from the ground. Good luck with your install.
Click to expand...
This Is good advise. I should have added that I went to the building Dept. first . then you won't get any surprises. Yes you can rent the cord drill in Avon at Home Depot. It cost's $ 62 and change for half a day. I went through a fifty year old 11 inch foundation wall in about 20 minutes. Do your drilling from the out side. It creates a good amount of dust. Not as much as you would think though. I do think they want 24 " or more above grade in case of snow build up. They may go by your manual which I think is less. But best to ask first and not have to have a re-inspection.
 
As far as going through that wall if it is a block wall you should be able to poke through with a hammer and chisel. It is not as neat but it goes quick. you can mortar a piece of stovepipe in place and then feed the pellet pipe through it. An other possibilty is penetrating the box header above the foundation. I have done both methods and they both worked fine.
 
yep, will check with building inspector but needed to plan and get extra vent sections.
I did use the "Shawshank redemption " method before with chisels and rock hammer and it took hours for the dryer vent. foundation is 55 years old and quite hardened ...
 
donkarlos said:
yep, will check with building inspector but needed to plan and get extra vent sections.
I did use the "Shawshank redemption " method before with chisels and rock hammer and it took hours for the dryer vent. foundation is 55 years old and quite hardened ...
Click to expand...

Probably cheaper than a core drill would be a hammer drill. Draw a circular pattern and drill a series of 3/8 or 1/2 holes on your pattern lines to weaken it. Then knock out the center. I've done this thru heavy sandstone and concrete.
 
Panhandler said:
donkarlos said:
yep, will check with building inspector but needed to plan and get extra vent sections.
I did use the "Shawshank redemption " method before with chisels and rock hammer and it took hours for the dryer vent. foundation is 55 years old and quite hardened ...
Click to expand...

Probably cheaper than a core drill would be a hammer drill. Draw a circular pattern and drill a series of 3/8 or 1/2 holes on your pattern lines to weaken it. Then knock out the center. I've done this thru heavy sandstone and concrete.
Click to expand...
I would agree that there many cheaper ways to drill the hole. I felt that the cost of renting the drill basicly cancelled out the cost of a thimble so it was a wash. I got a nice clean 4 inch hole and in twenty minutes time. I though it was money well spent. Just my 2 cents
 
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