**UPDATE** Pellets not sliding well in hopper - My fix w/pics

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Shortstuff

Feeling the Heat
Jun 5, 2008
461
Southeastern MA
I have had a little trouble with this in that I have to open the hopper and push the pellets towards the auger side once in a while. They tend to hang up a bit throughout the day so I decided to try the fix that others have mentioned here.

First, I emptied the hopper and taped over the auger opening, then vacuumed it out. I then took a scotch pad and sanded all the inside surfaces of the hopper making it smoother, then vacuumed again and wiped several times with naptha (lighter fluid). I then put metal tape over the rivets/screws/seams (not the vertical sides) and I applied a good coat of silicon, rubbing it well into the metal with a final dry wipe. It sure felt much slippery-er.

I won't know for a couple of days if this helps with the "flow" of pellets to the auger, but I'll know in a few days and make a post.

Steve

Here are a couple of before pics:
 

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Here are a couple of after pics:
 

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Did you start at the bottom and shingle the tape to the top? That will help keep the edges of the tape from rolling up . Looks like a good job. I wish I could get into my Castile insert like that. I can get in up to my forearm and barely touch the auger. I use a mirror and tools, and stuff, to clean out around the auger. Good Job
 
Is the temp rating of the tape 250 degrees? That’s the type I saw at Lowes.

I'm really not sure what the temperature rating of the tape is, I've had that tape for many years and have used it to wrap the exhaust of my skid steer which held up just fine for a long time. I know that the walls of my hopper get hot, but definately not near 250° or much greater than 100°.

Yes, I did put the tape on the lower portions first, then overlapped them with the upper layers (like shingles). I should know in a few days if it helped at all, but it certainly can't hurt.

Thanks for the compliments.

Steve
 
Shortstuff said:
Is the temp rating of the tape 250 degrees? That’s the type I saw at Lowes.

I'm really not sure what the temperature rating of the tape is, I've had that tape for many years and have used it to wrap the exhaust of my skid steer which held up just fine for a long time. I know that the walls of my hopper get hot, but definately not near 250° or much greater than 100°.

Yes, I did put the tape on the lower portions first, then overlapped them with the upper layers (like shingles). I should know in a few days if it helped at all, but it certainly can't hurt.

Thanks for the compliments.

Steve

Is that an aluminum tape?

I use a large amount of Aluminum tape at work. I am a Thermal Sprayer...I spray a wear resistant coating on many different parts and different configurations on the part itself for jet engines. I use an aluminum tape to tape off various surfaces that are coated with different coatings than I spray so it needs protection etc. Our tape is rated for much higher than 250 degrees. I liquify a powder of various coatings using helium, argon, oxygen in what I call an oversized welding booth type of set up run with a computer oscillation set up. Most of our booths are robotic and CNC programmed but mine is manual set up on the oscillation. Couldnt tell if that was what I use......but I know ours is rated for much higher heat.

But.....the hopper doesnt rise in temp much at all on the Castile. Good job on the taping! :)
 
One would think that the people that make the stoves would take into account that the dam pellets need to advance to the auger. Why would this happen? Bad engineering,mmmm..
 
I also had trouble with pellets dropping toward the auger in my new quadrafire castille. Tried the dry silicone as the dealer suggested and that didn't work. Someone on this site told me to sand the inside of entire hopper and so far much better, but I think I'll tape the inside like yours to cover the rivets/screws sticking up. Agree very poor design by quadrafire.
 
Inside the st croix there are no rivets all welded and sanded smooth, at least the afton bay model. They must know before they design these things that 1st and formost is pellet flow to the auger uninterupted.............................................. geez
 
Try a very cheap and easy solution: Clean out your hopper with a shop vac and rub waxed paper all over the sides , top , bottom of your hopper and your pellets will slide on thier own. IT WORKS.
 
Shortstuff said:
Here are a couple of after pics:

Well done! It is disappointing that the stove manufacturer makes a gravity feed hopper that has such high friction and for a critical function of the stove.

I would periodically recheck the tape when reloading for any signs of adhesive or material shrinkage, etc.

Good job.
 
It's a trade off you get, but there is little point in a large capacity hopper if you have to move the pellets by hand once it gets half full.

I was thinking of a hopper system that would change in shape. When you loaded it up it would get wider and as the pellets were feed the sides would slope up. Easier said than done ofcourse..

Changing the wall angles even a small amount can drastically decrease the amount of fuel they can hold and thats probably why you will find most are on the extreme and need to be made slippery to work all the time.
 
**UPDATE**

Just a quick post to say that after performing the above I filled the hopper to the brim and let it empty without touching anything which took a few days and it never had any problem at all supplying all the pellets needed to cover and supply the auger.

When I first got the stove, it did shutdown because the pellets wouldn't feed the complete hopper, so this fix really made a difference. I won't have to worry about the stove shutting down when we're not home or through the night because the pellets got hung up in the hopper.

Steve
 
Glad to hear your solution worked out.
Happy burning!
 
msmith66 said:
Try a very cheap and easy solution: Clean out your hopper with a shop vac and rub waxed paper all over the sides , top , bottom of your hopper and your pellets will slide on thier own. IT WORKS.

Tried the wax paper trick, it DOES work. Thanks.
 
Thanks for all the information---I am going crazy---my pellet stove is not dropping all the pellets. The hopper is not moving all the pellets to the auger. It causes a funnel in the middle and not dropping pellets down. The flame goes out and when I check it is still 3/4 full with an empty hole down the middle so the auger thinks its empty. I called the company and they said to spray silicone on and wipe off. It did not make a bit of difference. HELP!!!
Thanks
 
cindi said:
Thanks for all the information---I am going crazy---my pellet stove is not dropping all the pellets. The hopper is not moving all the pellets to the auger. It causes a funnel in the middle and not dropping pellets down. The flame goes out and when I check it is still 3/4 full with an empty hole down the middle so the auger thinks its empty. I called the company and they said to spray silicone on and wipe off. It did not make a bit of difference. HELP!!!
Thanks

What kind of stove do you have, and what were the pellets? Were the pellets all small, or damp?
 
Its a NESCO, I guess the other name is Corn Flame. The pellets I am using are: Premium Hardwood Pellets. I am going to try and load a picture of what it is doing.
The pellets are normal size and dry.
Thanks
Cindi
 
cindi said:
Its a NESCO, I guess the other name is Corn Flame. The pellets I am using are: Premium Hardwood Pellets. I am going to try and load a picture of what it is doing.
The pellets are normal size and dry.
Thanks
Cindi

Cindi,

Am I understanding you correctly that you have a corn stove?
 
cindi said:
When I purchased it, they said it was a "corn or wood" pellet stove.

I tried looking at a web page from the company that you said made your stove (Corn Flame), and I did NOT see anything that mentioned being able to burn pellets in their stove. Did you look through your owners manual to see if they mention it?

If not, I would contact the manufacturer and see what they say. If they say no, then you have a problem caused by the person who sold it to you.
 
Shortstuff said:
I have had a little trouble with this in that I have to open the hopper and push the pellets towards the auger side once in a while. They tend to hang up a bit throughout the day so I decided to try the fix that others have mentioned here.

First, I emptied the hopper and taped over the auger opening, then vacuumed it out. I then took a scotch pad and sanded all the inside surfaces of the hopper making it smoother, then vacuumed again and wiped several times with naptha (lighter fluid). I then put metal tape over the rivets/screws/seams (not the vertical sides) and I applied a good coat of silicon, rubbing it well into the metal with a final dry wipe. It sure felt much slippery-er.

I won't know for a couple of days if this helps with the "flow" of pellets to the auger, but I'll know in a few days and make a post.

Steve

Here are a couple of before pics:

Shortstuff:

I have the same problem in a Lennox Winslow PI-40 pellet stove insert.

It seems that curious minds think alike because I thought of some of the same solutions that have been presented in this forum.

Using aluminum tape on problem areas, impregnating the hopper surface with a slippery substance (e.g., silicone, graphite, or teflon), or dropping a couple of "dryer balls" into the hopper are some of the ideas that I considered.

So far, I only experimented with dropping one, two, or three "dryer balls" into the hopper. These "balls" are plastic spheres with spikes and are used in clothes dryers to expedite the drying process. They are large enough to preclude jamming the auger and as the auger moves the balls ride on top of the auger and "tickle" the pellets initiating movement that "encourages" the pellets to move down the hopper. Unfortunately, this idea doesn't work well with the PI-40 due to the hopper geometry and the configuration of the balls. I think that if the balls were larger and heavier, it will work. However, using off-the-shelf dryer balls may work in a different stove. Thus, I'm just putting the idea out there, hoping that if someone tries it in a different stove that it may work and we would get some feedback on the feasibility of this idea. The beauty of it is that if it works anyone can do it and does not require careful taping, sanding, or application of lubricant or coating.

My next step is to use aluminum tape in strategic locations inside the hopper. I'll keep everyone posted if it works on the Lennox PI-40 insert.

Thanks for the insights.

Very Respectfully,

deuce
 
Thanks for adding your input! It looks like you're well on the way to solving the problem and we'll be curious to see how it works out for you.

Happy Heating!

Steve
 
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