Harman Oakwood smoke issues

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MishMouse said:
FIREFIGHTER29 said:
Yes, if I leave the air up to high when using the after burn I get puff backs as well. So I would say its normal but not good. If you turn the air down some it will stop the puff backs.
Click to expand...

Once you turn the air down and get the afterburn going, you can push the air back up slowly without causing the backpuffs. Also if you move the air down slowly it will also eliminate the backpuffs.
Also I would not run this stove (TL-300 or the Oakwood for that matter) on high for extended periods of time when the afterburn is activated. You could/will overfire the stove and damage the ab chamber.
Click to expand...

In my short experience w/ the Oakwood I can confirm this. The prior owner of my stove clearly overfired and toasted the AB package. Keeping temps within reason is the key to extending the life of that $300 part, which is not covered by warranty.

I've got a good draft, so even my warmup fires require very little air once they get going, and once it's cranking I have my primary open just a crack for burning smoke. If it stalls I just open the bypass, stir the splits, and give it air for a minute... and away we go.

In the VC threads you will see some guys are running their Everburns very hot. I am convinced this is the cause of the ceramic fiber decay. This version of the stuff was not designed for space shuttle use.

I had a kind of smokeless puffback myself last night. The stove was cooking at 650 and I kicked the primary from 100% shut to 100% open. I heard a clang - it blew the damn bypass damper right open! That was awsome.
 
branchburner said:
No bolt hole, just that hole burnt right through the back (from the guy who overfired it - showed it Bob in H. Falls this am and he concurred, overfiring).

Picked up the grill this am - tonight's the night!
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Did you do any grilling last night?
 
Since this has turned into the Oakwood maintenance thread.
Oakwood burners make sure to check the tension on the andirons. (The flame shaped wood holders on the front of the stove)
On of mine is always loose and this morning when I was adding wood it fell off. So now the stove has to go out and I have to dig for it and sift through the ashes for the bolt.
 
Dill said:
Since this has turned into the Oakwood maintenance thread.
Oakwood burners make sure to check the tension on the andirons. (The flame shaped wood holders on the front of the stove)
On of mine is always loose and this morning when I was adding wood it fell off. So now the stove has to go out and I have to dig for it and sift through the ashes for the bolt.
Click to expand...

You have to watch the TL-300's also.
This also happened to me, not to mention the andiron extensions like falling off also when using the front load door to manipulate the wood.
 
MishMouse said:
branchburner said:
No bolt hole, just that hole burnt right through the back (from the guy who overfired it - showed it Bob in H. Falls this am and he concurred, overfiring).

Picked up the grill this am - tonight's the night!
Click to expand...

Did you do any grilling last night?
Click to expand...

Work and family have been interfering w/ my ability to post - the nerve!

Got home 9pm Thurs, threw a few splits on the few warm coals I had, rinsed off the grill and threw it in the fire for a few minutes to degrease it. Plopped it in a bit later and tossed on a few steaks and realized, man, not enough coals - damn! Then I remembered - I can close the top w/ the grill in. That was all I needed, and I ten minutes later, around 10pm, I was eating one of the best steaks ever. My son took a pic or two, so will try to post soon.
Keep looking for the Oakwood, Texas Boy!
 
Yesterday it was 30 degrees outside with snow and 30-50 mph winds.
So I dropped the grill in and cooked up some HF brats.
This stove saves me money on gas multiple ways.
 
Nice MishMouse, just picked the grill up myself. We had steaks the other night and wow they were good!
 
I just got a Harman Oakwood. I have some limited experience (with a Consolidated Dutchwest with catalytic converter) and haven't heated with wood for several years.

I found this thread because of a smokey smell in my brand new Harman, fed into a brand new flue. It only lacks a cap for now. I switched to AB only after the fire got going with nice coal bed. I think the smokey smell only happens when I have it set to AB.

This is for a weekend cabin, only source of heat.

Day 1: got the paint smell. Okay, I was warned about that. I burned all day to pretty much get rid of it -- I believe (could be wrong). Didn't spend the night.

Next weekend: burned half of the day and then overnighted, outside temp in the 50s, didn't really need a fire, but just had to use it. Switched to AB with air intake all the way to the left (=most-limited air intake). About three hours after going to bed, woke to smell of smoke. No visible smoke, but unpleasant. I thought it could be new-stove burn-in. (burned seasoned oak only)

Next weekend: again, burned half the day and then overnighted with AB and limited air intake (2-3 notches from left), outside temp low of 44, similar experience. Not quite so smelly but still bad. (burned mix of seasoned oak, poplar)

Having looked through these posts, I'm wondering what I should do. It's a new stove, installed by a reputable sweep. I doubt there is any ash build-up in the AB area. I don't want to break it by poking at it.

Is it possible that I shouldn't be using AB at all, until the temp gets into the 30s?? Should I be using a higher air intake setting?

Thanks for any advice. I'm wondering whether I made a bad choice, or -- is it possible to get a lemon?

-- Hickory
 
Not sure about the smoke smell - doubt it's ab clogging, that would take months.
But yes, a bit warm for best burning results. Normally even with a good coal bed you need the air open a bit to really get the ab to cruise, and I would think it might heat you out of the house. Next time you're home on a good cold day, check your chimney outside for smoke and you'll know if the ab is burning.
What kind of stove top temps are you getting? What is your flue setup?

My short answers to your questions:

"Is it possible that I shouldn’t be using AB at all, until the temp gets into the 30s?? Should I be using a higher air intake setting?"
Yes and maybe.

"I’m wondering whether I made a bad choice, or—is it possible to get a lemon?"
Not a bad choice, and a lemon? - remotely possible, not likely - be patient!
 
branchburner said:
Next time you're home on a good cold day, check your chimney outside for smoke and you'll know if the ab is burning.
What kind of stove top temps are you getting? What is your flue setup?
Click to expand...

On one of these not-so-cold days (high 40s-50s) I noticed that with AB there was still smoke coming out the flue. Should I be seeing only heat waves coming out? Is there a certain stove-top temp that it should reach before I switch to AB?

Flue is new SS 6". Stove is in front of fireplace on the hearth, flue exits to back, about 1-1.5', then up the 20' or so chimney. I haven't put on a cap yet.

I don't yet have a stove top thermometer. Could you recommend a good one? Just by putting my hand around the stove, with AB the back seems a little warmer than the front, which is encouraging.

This thread has been tremendously informative. The biggest surprise to me in this thread is the difficulty (and the need for) maintenance of the AB. I'm trying to distill some rules from this thread about the AB. Please check me on this:
Should I switch to AB only if:

1 - it's below a certain temp outside (why? for draft?)
2 - the fire is well-established (judged by what? is that why you ask about the stove top temp?)
3 - the air intake is set in a certain range (like what?)
4 - I'm able to monitor the stove to make sure the fuel supply doesn't burn out? iow - no overnight burning? That's what I was hoping to use the AB for.
5 - I'm burning only good seasoned hardwood (to get good temp AND avoid clogging the AB)?

I would love to see this thread continue, because I really want to learn how to monitor and clean the AB. With only weekend use, maybe I'm overdoing my concern about that.

I know, this is an art AND a science. And I will be patient. I enjoyed my Dutchwest while it lasted, and look forward to mastering this stove.

Thanks much!

Hickory
 
Hickory19 said:
branchburner said:
Next time you're home on a good cold day, check your chimney outside for smoke and you'll know if the ab is burning.
What kind of stove top temps are you getting? What is your flue setup?
Click to expand...

Sorry, I guess I should have said "next time you're home away from home" on a cold day!

On one of these not-so-cold days (high 40s-50s) I noticed that with AB there was still smoke coming out the flue. Should I be seeing only heat waves coming out? Is there a certain stove-top temp that it should reach before I switch to AB?
Yes, if you are truly burning smoke there will be none to see - I thought I was doing fine one day and walked out to see lots of smoke - went back in, opened the damper, opened the air, waited a bit - all set. It will vary, but for me I like to get to 600, and after closing the bypass it will slowly drop to 500 and less. I think I run hotter than some.

I don't yet have a stove top thermometer. Could you recommend a good one?
I just got the one my local shop had, Condar. Other may have a preference. But I would say it's essential gear!

This thread has been tremendously informative. The biggest surprise to me in this thread is the difficulty (and the need for) maintenance of the AB.
It is a minor bummer - I chose this over a cat because I thought, hey, no worries! But that said, I think with an occasional vacuum and a more thorough cleaning every year or two, it's really not a huge time investment - in fact, could be blessing: reminds you to check your flue and the rest of the entire setup. I'm the kind of guy who could put in a stove and not think about any maintence for years.

I'm trying to distill some rules from this thread about the AB. Please check me on this:
Should I switch to AB only if:

1 - it's below a certain temp outside (why? for draft?) Draft, yes, and to perform at peak you'll likely end up with too much heat. But I can (and I'm sure you could) get it going in warm temps as well.
2 - the fire is well-established (judged by what? is that why you ask about the stove top temp?) Coal bed and stove/flue temps.
3 - the air intake is set in a certain range (like what?) That will vary greatly from user to user, and varies even for a single user depending on different factors (stove temp, outdoor temp, wood size/type/dryness. I have very good (perhaps excessive) draft and am full open only for the first 2-3 minutes of starting a fire. After burning all eve I just put a load of nice dry wood on a good coal bed and went from 300 to 500 in 15 minutes with no primary air. Before I close the bypass, I will open the air about a third-way for a few minutes, and leave it there for a few minutes after AB starts, then shut it down. But that's just me, just tonight.
4 - I'm able to monitor the stove to make sure the fuel supply doesn't burn out? iow - no overnight burning? That's what I was hoping to use the AB for. You should be able to get long, unattended burns. Yes, monitor the stove for now - no biggie if you burn all your wood, but you want to see the temp ranges and how the stove behaves. Once you get to know the stove and the outdoor temps go down, I think it will work out. I'm still not sure what my best burn times will be, as I've been saving my best splits and burning smaller stuff now. It's been using wood a bit faster than I expected, but that could be me, or my wood, or my too-good draft.
5 - I'm burning only good seasoned hardwood (to get good temp AND avoid clogging the AB)? Yes, wet or green will cool the fire, but it could be good seasoned softwood if that's what you have. I've been mixing in pallet scraps and branchwood, and that's getting me to temp real quick. I always put small stuff on my coal bed before I add larger splits and I'm sure that is helping the AB engage. I do have to watch that I don't go too small or too dry - I can push 700 in a flash, and that's beyond my comfort zone.
I would love to see this thread continue, because I really want to learn how to monitor and clean the AB. With only weekend use, maybe I'm overdoing my concern about that.
That's going to extend your learning curve. I would suggest you take several weeks off work... hmmm, maybe a month. Gotta keep an eye on that cabin, right?

I know, this is an art AND a science. And I will be patient. I enjoyed my Dutchwest while it lasted, and look forward to mastering this stove.

Thanks much!

Hickory
Click to expand...
 
I'm going to say that between the temp outside and the low air that you lost some of your draft at some point, which is why your getting a smokey smell. Generally speaking I'm not closing the damper unless its below 40 out and I have a good fire going. When I run the AB I usually keep the primary air about midway, this is just how I've done it. I can get a good overnight burn this way.
Overall I'm still happy with the stove, but not as happy with Harman, this stuff should be in the manual. If your only burning a little wood on the weekends, I'm guessing you won't have to worry about the AB. Evidently I'm a very heavy user, which is why I ran into this problem.
And I have to say that grill helps to make up for the problem.


You can judge how the fire's going by simply waiting till there is good coal bed. The first load, (3 medium pieces) is what this is for. The stove gets up to temp and then I throw in some more wood and close the bypass damper. Also I think keeping abreast of the ash situation should help the AB also. If you let it build up (I've been guilty of this) to the point that the ash pan fills, it would seem like it could get sucked into the AB easier.
 
I'm trying to get in the habit, whenever the stove is cold and I'm emptying the ash pan, to vacuum out the holes of the "shoe" in the rear center. The two larger, upper holes seem to stay pretty clean, but quite often I notice a fair bit of ash in the seven smaller, lower holes.
 
Unless you have the stove out for days or your using an ash vac. Please don't vacuum, your more likely to burn you house down due to mishandling ashes than a chimney fire.

Oh I love this grill, I came home late and needed to rush on dinner cause I had a meeting at 6. Got the fire stoked back up. Tossed the grill in. And in less than 10 minutes, grilled pork chops and drumsticks. Awesome.
 
Right - when I say stove cold, I do mean COLD.
Gonna be tough in the winter, just do it when we're away for a few days.
For a weekend cabin, no sweat.
 
I know I'm a bit late to reply to this post- great reading!!!
I installed an Oakwood in december 2008 and have used it for 6 months total. At around 5 months it began emitting smoke in the house so I replaced all of the door gaskets and the glass gasket, no luck eliminating the smoke smell. Today I removed the top and front of the stove and found that it was leaking around the gasket between the top and the rear housing, near the flu collar. Most of the gaskets need to be replaced, this is way too soon!!! The dealer that I purchased from will exchange my stove for anything he has in stock- think I will go for the Regency F2400M. This Oakwood requires too much maintenance.
Good luck.
 
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