geting past the damper

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jimcope

New Member
Aug 1, 2008
86
howell mi
I have a wood insert with a round hole my damper is about 5 inches wide I am using a 8 inch round liner. so I need to go to round to oval to round again. I can not cut the damper any biger than its all ready is I would if I could. any ideas?
Thanks Jim [email protected]
 
Not really sure what you are asking, but it sounds like you are wanting to go larger on your chimney. Not a good idea. Although it seems like going bigger is better, but that is not the case. In a chimney, it is all about draft, and you will play he// gettting good draft going from 6" to 8". You can, in most cases, go from an 8" down to a 6" but not vice versa.
 
Remove the damper frame completely. Cut it out with a handheld grinder, this gives you plenty of room for the liner to connect to the stove. Be warned, it is a dirty job. I did this with my 6" liner.
 
My stove has a 8 in outlet that is why i bought a 8in liner I am thinking about making a tool to form an oval then using a ball of some sort to make it round again if i can put air in some sort of ball that might work. I do not think grinding will help much but wish i could do that because there is block and cement right to the edge of the opening to the flue
thanks jim still tring to think of the best way to do this
thanks for all the good ideas
 
I think you have the right idea - we have often run liners down the chimney with an attached oval to round liner section at the bottom (we had these come from a vendor that way) - pulled through the damper (from the bottom) - then make them round again. With certain weights of liners, this can be done almost by hand.
 
Jim,

I had the same barrier with my installation. It was a 6" flexible liner though a 5" opening for the damper. You have a much bigger size difference, so I don't know if this is practical, but here is what I did.

1. I pulled the liner down the chimney to the back of the damper, reached up and attempted to squeeze it into an oval. Between my weakness and the angle I was working from, I couldn't budge the shape at all.

2. Cut up some 1x2" lumber into 2 8" pieces. I used 2 8" threaded rods on either end and made sort of a "clamp" to squeeze the liner between the two 1x2"s. One end had a double nut with a lock washer in between and a large fender washer between that and the wood. The other end I chiseled out a nut shaped hole, and threaded the rod through.


Code:
 .
  X                    X   <---double nut
 ___                 ___   <--- fender washer
----------------------------  <---- 1x2 wood
  X                    X   <-----threaded rod
  X                    X
  X                    X
  X                    X
  X                    X
  X                    X
----------------------------- <1x2 with nut buried in the wood so it won't turn.

3. Went to HD and got that Skill power ratchet. I use the dang thing all the time now, it is a little rechargeable 1/4" drive ratchet with a motor in it.

4. Reached up in the damper and put my clamp contraption on the liner. I used the power ratchet to alternately turn the double nutted end of the threaded rods and slowly squeezed the liner into an oval. That rachet had pleanty of power to squeeze the liner. I suppose you could do it with a standard rachet or nut driver, but it would take a lot longer.

5. This crushed a couple inches at a time, so I had to loosen the clamp, pull down some liner through the damper and repeat the ovalizing.

3. Finally, I was able to use the same clamp to squeeze the end of the liner back into a circle and connect it to the flue collar coupling.



I hope this helps, I can take a picture of my contraption if need be.
 
Thanks to All
I found on youtupe how to make a tool to shape a round liner oval. It works with to rollers about 16in long that you can ajust to make liner more oval. I am going to try to buy a small intertube add air to it it should help to make it round again. Yes I am doing a full liner its about 22 feet up or so. I went tonight and bought some pipe and going to weld bolts to the ends will be making two up rights attached to some type of frame that I can ajust the rollers to make the pipe more oval i have some steel here allready. went to tsc today to buy pellets 199.00 a ton she would not honer the price so I came home and call tsc headquarters they solved that problem for me. I am puting in a pellet burner also that i have had in the garage for about 8 years. Replaced the control panel 227.00 the rest works fine painted both units up and they look brand new.
Thanks again every one has been a big help
Jim
 
Hi
Would like to see the pitcures of the tool you made my email address is [email protected]
Jim
 
Jim C,

Haven't gone through what you're dealing with, and I've only used steel-cutting discs and grinding discs on my angle grinder, but I do know they make MASONRY cutting discs for the hand-held grinders.

Could you possibly remove the damper frame, as has been suggested, and relieve the masonary, sufficient to pass your liner through, by "nibbling" way at it with the angle grinder (assuming you've got room enough to maneuver the grinder, and can reach the masonry in question, obviously)?

Just a thought....

Peter
 
That is a good idea peter thanks jim
 
This is very helpful. I am in the same situation now.
Maybe i can get the following from homedepot to round the ovalized pipe back?


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Id=10053&productId=100185840&N=10000003+90401


JimmyMood said:
Jim,

I had the same barrier with my installation. It was a 6" flexible liner though a 5" opening for the damper. You have a much bigger size difference, so I don't know if this is practical, but here is what I did.

1. I pulled the liner down the chimney to the back of the damper, reached up and attempted to squeeze it into an oval. Between my weakness and the angle I was working from, I couldn't budge the shape at all.

2. Cut up some 1x2" lumber into 2 8" pieces. I used 2 8" threaded rods on either end and made sort of a "clamp" to squeeze the liner between the two 1x2"s. One end had a double nut with a lock washer in between and a large fender washer between that and the wood. The other end I chiseled out a nut shaped hole, and threaded the rod through.


Code:
 .
  X                    X   <---double nut
 ___                 ___   <--- fender washer
----------------------------  <---- 1x2 wood
  X                    X   <-----threaded rod
  X                    X
  X                    X
  X                    X
  X                    X
  X                    X
----------------------------- <1x2 with nut buried in the wood so it won't turn.

3. Went to HD and got that Skill power ratchet. I use the dang thing all the time now, it is a little rechargeable 1/4" drive ratchet with a motor in it.

4. Reached up in the damper and put my clamp contraption on the liner. I used the power ratchet to alternately turn the double nutted end of the threaded rods and slowly squeezed the liner into an oval. That rachet had pleanty of power to squeeze the liner. I suppose you could do it with a standard rachet or nut driver, but it would take a lot longer.

5. This crushed a couple inches at a time, so I had to loosen the clamp, pull down some liner through the damper and repeat the ovalizing.

3. Finally, I was able to use the same clamp to squeeze the end of the liner back into a circle and connect it to the flue collar coupling.



I hope this helps, I can take a picture of my contraption if need be.
 
Here is what I did about a month ago. welded up a frame with 2 1 1/2 in rollers that i could ajust to make smaller and smaller oval. found that on youtube then I made up a 8 in collar to make it round again, I cut collar in half then took threated rod to make my pipe oval. I am happy to hear things worked out for you.
Jim
 
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