Skip Tooth Chains

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north of 60 said:
ak said:
i have a skip tooth on my stihl 036 with a 20" bar which has changed to a 360 and then a 361, i also have one on my husky pro saw with a 24" bar. both are around 60cc and both slice right through the wood i am cutting. skip tooth chains work well with softer woods like what i am used to here in fairbanks ak, like spruce, birch and douglas fir, but with hard woods it tends to bog the saws down so a regular chain might work better unless yo uhave a good saw. it does cut wood though, i would say twice as fast as regular chains.

OK I must have it backwards. My idea of a skip chain was for underpowered saws to maintain their rpm to keep the saw in its power curve to do the job. If you ran both types of chains at the same RPM wouldnt the skip chain cut slower as it would be removing less wood per revolution. So if you have the power a normal chain should cut faster so long as the chains we have been talking about are both sharp. I would say a skip tooth would be required more for hardwoods and less on softwoods using
the same power plant. YES / NO :question:
skip tooth will do a better job in big timber where the tip of the bar cant clean the cut!(just removeing chips better and big bars sunk all the way in doesnt clean out well) no matter what the power
 
akhilljack said:
i am most likely wrong about what i thought it just seems to cut way faster but my saws are by no means under powered for a 20"bar or 24"

It is possible that you are seeing the advantages of keeping the RPM's up higher. That can make tons of difference from saw to saw.
 
I use full comp chain on my Dolmar, it has more than enough power for both the 20 and 28" bars I use with it... If I was ever to try going back to the 16" bar on my Pull-on I might try going with skip on it, but I see absolutely no reason I'd ever want to.

Gooserider
 
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