Creosote forming on the glass....
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Pyro68:
Heating I guess 3,000 to 4,000 ft^2 depending on air flow. Leave the bypass open for about 30 minutes then close it.
Heating I guess 3,000 to 4,000 ft^2 depending on air flow. Leave the bypass open for about 30 minutes then close it.
LSaupe said:
I'm thinking the manual recomends 45 to 60 min. but not sure, I can check. Check your trouble shooting guide in the manual. It's often surprising how long you need to leave that open. If you can get a ripping hot fire before start to bank it down that should help. Do you ever have smoke puff out the door when you open it to feed wood?
rick
I discovered by mistake that aluminum wheel cleaner works like majic. Bottle said "will not etch aluminum wheels" so I figured it wouldn't hurt ceramic either.
Worked great! I had the 99 cent bottle too :coolsmile: Most manufactures say any "non-abrasive" cleaner.
Worked great! I had the 99 cent bottle too :coolsmile: Most manufactures say any "non-abrasive" cleaner.
Brian VT
Minister of Fire
My glass was smoked in the morning because I was shutting the air down too low for fear of it overfiring while unattended.
It wasn't until I burned an "overnighter" load during the day that I learned what air setting would give me a long consistent burn and keep the glass clean without overfiring. Those bigger loads can take a little more air without overfiring than a 1/2 full pile of small splits , it seems.
I still have a slight dusting on the glass in the morning but it wipes off easily with newspaper or will burn off with a few small splits burned hot.
I would never have believed it possible after having some really thick buildup to remove, but it is if you figure out how your stove and wood likes to burn.
I use this process to gauge what my chimney might look like inside.
It wasn't until I burned an "overnighter" load during the day that I learned what air setting would give me a long consistent burn and keep the glass clean without overfiring. Those bigger loads can take a little more air without overfiring than a 1/2 full pile of small splits , it seems.
I still have a slight dusting on the glass in the morning but it wipes off easily with newspaper or will burn off with a few small splits burned hot.
I would never have believed it possible after having some really thick buildup to remove, but it is if you figure out how your stove and wood likes to burn.
I use this process to gauge what my chimney might look like inside.
Running a 25 foot stack and with outside air vent.
Larry S.[/quote]
Was reading your post again and just noticed the outside air vent. Just for kicks try disconecting that and see if it makes a difference. Have seen a couple of situations where the outside air intake allowed enough air through the primary that the stove didn't pull enough through the airwash. I may be "all wet" but it may help.
rk
Larry S.[/quote]
Was reading your post again and just noticed the outside air vent. Just for kicks try disconecting that and see if it makes a difference. Have seen a couple of situations where the outside air intake allowed enough air through the primary that the stove didn't pull enough through the airwash. I may be "all wet" but it may help.
rk
Hi Pyro:
I do know there is a snag with the outside air vent as the installers cut too small a hole and I do notice an improvement when taking off the block offf plate the goes around the air control lever.
Cracking the door really gets things going. Installers are coming back today to try again. Surprised that you cannot contact Travis directly (no contact info at all in any of my literature). End up relying on the responsiveness of the dealer.
Hopefully today will go better.
To answer a previous question, I did install the thermometer on the cooking surface last night. Seems to indicate rather closely the same thing I see when having it on the stack.
Best I can do is 250F with the air control full open (as installed) or 300F with the front block off plate removed.
If I ever see over 500F I will be thrilled.
Larry
I do know there is a snag with the outside air vent as the installers cut too small a hole and I do notice an improvement when taking off the block offf plate the goes around the air control lever.
Cracking the door really gets things going. Installers are coming back today to try again. Surprised that you cannot contact Travis directly (no contact info at all in any of my literature). End up relying on the responsiveness of the dealer.
Hopefully today will go better.
To answer a previous question, I did install the thermometer on the cooking surface last night. Seems to indicate rather closely the same thing I see when having it on the stack.
Best I can do is 250F with the air control full open (as installed) or 300F with the front block off plate removed.
If I ever see over 500F I will be thrilled.
Larry
LSaupe said:
When talking about loading your stove, E-W is considered parallel with your door, and N-S perpendicular to it. Or N-S is with the butt end of the log pointing at you as you look at the front of the stove and E-W with the butt ends pointing to the sides of the stove.
Hi Larry, a couple of quick things. If you are not reaching 500 surface temp your glass will never stay clean. The stove simply isn't pulling enough air for the airwash to work. Try building a fire w/ plenty of kindling (also assuming seasoned wood that is physically dry as well). Gradually build that up using smaller & then med. sized pieces of wood. Do not close the bypass damper or bottom air control until you see high temps on the surface. You should be able to take that stove from cold to 500 degree surface in about 30 min. Don't be afraid to leave that open until the stove is really hot. Double check to make sure your wood isn't making a "sizzling" sound when it burns.
Travis is set up so the dealers are supposed to provide all the support you need. There are some things you can do if you are running into problems with the local dealer. Let me know if you can't get it resolved.
Travis is set up so the dealers are supposed to provide all the support you need. There are some things you can do if you are running into problems with the local dealer. Let me know if you can't get it resolved.
I learned this trick here too and it works VERY well. But, I used a piece of newspaper instead of paper towel. This "trick" is much cheaper than buying a cleaner and a LOT faster than just a damp towel. Good luck.
El Dia Octavo
New Member
northwinds said:
My Hearthstone takes a couple of wadded up newspaper sheets wetted in warm water and dipped in ashes followed by damp paper towels to clean off the gray residue. I do this routine at least once a week - more if I've been smoldering overnighters.
If that Quadra-Fire is THAT easy to clean, I'm buyin' one. Seriously - is it really that easy? Inquiring minds want to know.
northwinds
Minister of Fire
El Dia Octavo said:
It's that easy on my set-up, but I don't get much build-up. The windows have never darkened to the point where it takes more than
1 or 2 paper towels moistened with ash and without much scrubbing. I burn well-seasoned wood at high temperatures before turning
down the primary air for overnight burns. I would think that is more important than the type of stove I have.
Just had my air vent line corrected. Still cant get any real temps (either wit supposedly kiln dried fire wood) or BioBricks.
What is the best way to get a hot fire? What I have been doing and what I notice:
1. I start will very small splits (kindling), keep the air vent all the way open and bypass open. With enough wood I can get up to maybe 350F, but this will not last, maybe 20 minutes and it starts to fall below 300, and then 200. I add in largers splits and it just sits there at 200-250F. Creosote builds on the glass and things get frustrating.
2. I do notice that I still see flame out of the secondary tubes even with the bypass open (is this normal)? I do got hotter temps (as measued on the stack) with the bypass open (bypassing the tubes).
3. Cracking the glass does help a bit to get a hotter fire.
4. I have the front air vent block off plates removed (so I am pulling both inside and outside air) and see no additional improvement.
5. NO matter what the fuel source a hotter fire can not be maintained for any length of time more than say 30 minutes, things just fall back again.
Any thoughts on this? Running about a 35 foot stack with two 90 degree elbows and two 45's.
Larry S.
What is the best way to get a hot fire? What I have been doing and what I notice:
1. I start will very small splits (kindling), keep the air vent all the way open and bypass open. With enough wood I can get up to maybe 350F, but this will not last, maybe 20 minutes and it starts to fall below 300, and then 200. I add in largers splits and it just sits there at 200-250F. Creosote builds on the glass and things get frustrating.
2. I do notice that I still see flame out of the secondary tubes even with the bypass open (is this normal)? I do got hotter temps (as measued on the stack) with the bypass open (bypassing the tubes).
3. Cracking the glass does help a bit to get a hotter fire.
4. I have the front air vent block off plates removed (so I am pulling both inside and outside air) and see no additional improvement.
5. NO matter what the fuel source a hotter fire can not be maintained for any length of time more than say 30 minutes, things just fall back again.
Any thoughts on this? Running about a 35 foot stack with two 90 degree elbows and two 45's.
Larry S.
northwinds
Minister of Fire
Larry,
I've been reading some of your past posts and feel bad that you're having trouble reaching higher temps. I have about
25 feet of chimney that goes straight up with no bends, so I don't have much experience with your situation. On my set-up,
I load it up with dry wood, put a small chunk of fire starter in there. and light it up. After 10-15 minutes, I shut off the
start-up air. After another 10-15 minutes, I'm at 500 and start putting on the brakes with the primary air controls until
the temperature starts leveling off.
It sounds to me like you're not getting enough air, especially if you're using kiln-dried wood or biobricks. You need tips from
people with similar draft/reduced air issues. I've got the opposite problem on my set-up and added an-inline damper to
avoid too much draft.
I've been reading some of your past posts and feel bad that you're having trouble reaching higher temps. I have about
25 feet of chimney that goes straight up with no bends, so I don't have much experience with your situation. On my set-up,
I load it up with dry wood, put a small chunk of fire starter in there. and light it up. After 10-15 minutes, I shut off the
start-up air. After another 10-15 minutes, I'm at 500 and start putting on the brakes with the primary air controls until
the temperature starts leveling off.
It sounds to me like you're not getting enough air, especially if you're using kiln-dried wood or biobricks. You need tips from
people with similar draft/reduced air issues. I've got the opposite problem on my set-up and added an-inline damper to
avoid too much draft.
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