Your thoughts on ideal stack temperatures

Todd said:

3fordasho said:

Diabel said:

Measured with magnetic exterior thermometer.

I like to see mine at around 400*-450* anything below that I consider a less of a clean burn (of course coaling stage not considered here). Over 600* I get uncomfortable & I feel like I am wasting fuel.

Your thoughts:

Click to expand...

Seems high. I have a probe type thermometer installed about 2' above the stove. I'll see 400F when charing a new load of wood,
but once the air is cut back and cat engaged it will only run 200-250F.

Click to expand...

For chits and giggles could you put your external next to your internal and see what the diff is? I find it hard to believe your running 200-250 internal unless it towards the end of the burn. A while ago I asked Woodstock for some internal temp info and they told me they have an internal probe 6' up that reads 400 on a full load.

Click to expand...

I have double wall from the stove to the class A insulated so I don't think my external (surface) thermometer will read correctly, plus my straight sections are telescoping (adjustable) sections so in reality they are more than double wall. I am curious though as my temp readings seem lower than everyone elses. When I get a chance I'll try an industrial digital readout temp controller I have laying around, it has an external j-type thermocouple I could stick into the flue easy enough.

And just for clarification, the internal flue is reading 200-250F with the fireview loaded, cat engaged, air inlet between 3/4-1, and reaching stove top temps of 400-525F.

3fordasho said:

Todd said:

3fordasho said:

Diabel said:

Measured with magnetic exterior thermometer.

I like to see mine at around 400*-450* anything below that I consider a less of a clean burn (of course coaling stage not considered here). Over 600* I get uncomfortable & I feel like I am wasting fuel.

Your thoughts:

Click to expand...

Seems high. I have a probe type thermometer installed about 2' above the stove. I'll see 400F when charing a new load of wood,
but once the air is cut back and cat engaged it will only run 200-250F.

Click to expand...

For chits and giggles could you put your external next to your internal and see what the diff is? I find it hard to believe your running 200-250 internal unless it towards the end of the burn. A while ago I asked Woodstock for some internal temp info and they told me they have an internal probe 6' up that reads 400 on a full load.

Click to expand...

I have double wall from the stove to the class A insulated so I don't think my external (surface) thermometer will read correctly, plus my straight sections are telescoping (adjustable) sections so in reality they are more than double wall. I am curious though as my temp readings seem lower than everyone elses. When I get a chance I'll try an industrial digital readout temp controller I have laying around, it has an external j-type thermocouple I could stick into the flue easy enough.

And just for clarification, the internal flue is reading 200-250F with the fireview loaded, cat engaged, air inlet between 3/4-1, and reaching stove top temps of 400-525F.

Click to expand...

Just checked flue temps- tel-tru was reading 230f. unscrewed it and placed in a j-type thermocouple connected to a omron temp controller. It reads a good 100f higher. So much for the accuracy of the tel-tru or could it be the ONE time l left the air wide open for too long and the guage was pegged at 1000F... doh

At least I can stop worrying about burning too cool and having a creosote factory.

Don't feel bad, my Condar probe was way off last year. It was never the same after it got too hot, It was way off and by the time I threw it away the thing would just continue to climb in temp til it pegged out. I don't know if I'll ever trust an internal anymore, I'm sticking to the external one now.

Just checked flue temps- tel-tru was reading 230f. unscrewed it and placed in a j-type thermocouple connected to a omron temp controller. It reads a good 100f higher. So much for the accuracy of the tel-tru or could it be the ONE time l left the air wide open for too long and the guage was pegged at 1000F... doh

At least I can stop worrying about burning too cool and having a creosote factory.[/quote]




3fordasho: You have to watch those Tel-tru thermometers. They are adjustable and the tolerance (stiffness)for adjustment is pretty loose. I prefer a different brand (I think hamilton) but you still have to be carefull not to turn the head. I finally spent the money at work for digitals to keep me out of hot water...don't ask.
Best way to calibrate and required in (food processing) any thermometer is with a certified mercury thermometer. Bob

bsa0021 said:

Just checked flue temps- tel-tru was reading 230f. unscrewed it and placed in a j-type thermocouple connected to a omron temp controller. It reads a good 100f higher. So much for the accuracy of the tel-tru or could it be the ONE time l left the air wide open for too long and the guage was pegged at 1000F... doh

At least I can stop worrying about burning too cool and having a creosote factory.

Click to expand...

3fordasho: You have to watch those Tel-tru thermometers. They are adjustable and the tolerance (stiffness)for adjustment is pretty loose. I prefer a different brand (I think hamilton) but you still have to be carefull not to turn the head. I finally spent the money at work for digitals to keep me out of hot water...don't ask.
Best way to calibrate and required in (food processing) any thermometer is with a certified mercury thermometer. Bob[/quote]



Thanks for the info, I know certain models are adjustable (have a set screw that you loosen to adjust) but mine does not have the set screw. I am guilty of threading it in and out using the head instead of the hex nut so perhaps I have caused my own problems? If in fact the head has moved in relation to the needle, I will try to recalibrate it.

3fordasho said:

bsa0021 said:

Just checked flue temps- tel-tru was reading 230f. unscrewed it and placed in a j-type thermocouple connected to a omron temp controller. It reads a good 100f higher. So much for the accuracy of the tel-tru or could it be the ONE time l left the air wide open for too long and the guage was pegged at 1000F... doh

At least I can stop worrying about burning too cool and having a creosote factory.

Click to expand...

3fordasho: You have to watch those Tel-tru thermometers. They are adjustable and the tolerance (stiffness)for adjustment is pretty loose. I prefer a different brand (I think hamilton) but you still have to be carefull not to turn the head. I finally spent the money at work for digitals to keep me out of hot water...don't ask.
Best way to calibrate and required in (food processing) any thermometer is with a certified mercury thermometer. Bob

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, I know certain models are adjustable (have a set screw that you loosen to adjust) but mine does not have the set screw. I am guilty of threading it in and out using the head instead of the hex nut so perhaps I have caused my own problems? If in fact the head has moved in relation to the needle, I will try to recalibrate it.[/quote]

The hex nut is the adjuster. Hold the nut w/pliers and turn the head to match a mercury thermometer (or good known source) immersed in water.

Wrigley said:

Class A chimneys are rated for 2100 degrees, right? If so, why is a 450 stack, i.e., 900 internal flue temp, too high?

Click to expand...

It's rated to tolerate up to 2100 degrees on 3 seperate occasions (e.g. after 3 chimney fires, time to replace it). It's only rated to 1000 on a continuous basis.

Thanks for the clarification -- with my old Morso 1125 I try to burn a bit on the hot side to minimize creosote and smoke, with stack temps around 500 early in the burn cycle. So that should still be alright for continuous use ....