everburn to AFTERBURNER!

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Home depot caries such tape (pretty common). I believe we're onto something with this! In my case reducing air by 75% the stove is running very nice. Now we have to come up with something adjustable.


This will sure void warranty...........what warranty ;-P
 
do you not have any problems...say in the morning....when you open the damper, toss some splits in and try to get things lit and the temp up? i couldn't draw enough air in this morning to get the fire going??
 
trailblaze said:
do you not have any problems...say in the morning....when you open the damper, toss some splits in and try to get things lit and the temp up? i couldn't draw enough air in this morning to get the fire going??

It is definitely harder to get the fire going at reloads & it takes longer to bring it up to temps. You have to play with it...make the hole a bit bigger.
 
dont really know what this hole your all trying to cover looks like but how about some type of stick on magnet!This way you can adjust how much to cover more easy.
 
Diabel said:
. You have to play with it...make the hole a bit bigger.

hahaha, maybe it's the cold medicine.... but i found that funny



anyway... i'll expeiment this weekend with the foil...and bigger holes
 
How about attaching a 90 deg elbow to the air intake with a damper-like disc installed in the elbow. That way you could change the air flow as needed very easily.

Also, I was thinking that a barometric damper wouldn't work very well. You would have to set it to control the draft when in secondary burn mode, but this would probably allow a huge amount of air into the pipe when in updraft mode. Sort of the same situation you have with a fixed piece of aluminum tape on the intake.
 
trailblaze said:
from the stove-- 1 4ft single wall- then 14ft of double wall, straight up through the ceiling then out the roof

trailblaze, forgive me if you've answered this elsewhere but what diameter chimney do you have? 6" or 8"?
 
rtljr said:
I'm a former VC Encore Everburn owner. My wife and I went through two Encores and both performed identically, i.e. uncontrollable burns and glowing cast iron around the flue collar.

Stove number one was installed in January 2007 and after break-in fires, would regularly run away. Our dealer adjusted the ash pan door and front doors; no improvement resulted. The dealer then was advised to check the bolts holding the refractory in place and he found the bolts were only "finger tight;" no improvement resulted. In June a Northeast Distributor representative visited our home and found issues with the ash pan door and front door fit and pronounced the problem resolved. Upon firing the stove in October 2007, I found that the same run away condition still existed.

At this point, I requested replacement with an Encore Catalytic, but Northeast Distributors said no and so our dealer installed Encore Everburn number two. Stove number two was installed in November 2007 and after the break-in fires we had our next run away. In addition, within a week, a crack developed in the shoe part of the refractory. A replacement shoe was ordered and we had a home visit from a VC field service representative based in Bethel, Vermont. Adjustments were made to the ash pan door and front doors and the stove was pronounced fit. After speaking to the VC rep the evening after he looked at the stove with our dealer (I could not be home for the visit due to my work), I fired the stove and it once again ran away. Each run away resulted in glowing cast iron around the flue collar and was accompanied by the "afterburner" sound.

The next step was installation of an in-line flue damper in January 2008. This had no impact on the stove's performance, i.e. it was still uncontrollable (although an oven mitt or aluminum foil stuffed in the secondary air intake would stop the "fun") and at this point I contacted the dealer once again. The VC rep called and said that we would then deal directly with the factory so as to take the burden off the dealer. He offered a replacement stove and in fact I could have chosen any of the VC or Dutchwest cat or non-cat stoves. Please remember that I had proposed replacement of stove number one with an Encore cat back in November 2007 and was told no deal. After thinking over the offer for a week, I called the VC rep back and requested removal of the stove and a full refund.


For those contemplating purchase of a stove using Everburn technology I can only say caveat emptor (let the buyer beware).


My experience with the same stove is almost identical! The only significant difference is that when VC Dealer came to replace my cracked refractory....he discovered that the cast iron rear wall of the stove was also cracked right where the flue collar bolts onto it. Two, 6-9 mm cracks. He pronounced it unsafe, promised to ask VC for a replacement - preferably a cat stove - and showed up a week later to remove Everburn and install a cat Encore. This new stove has been flawless.

My argument to Dealer - and to VC Rep if I had needed to - was: your defective ash pan hinge alignment caused overfiring / out of control stove, which in turn caused cracked cast iron.

Anyway, Dealer was great about it.

Beware Everburn.
 
Diabel said:
Now have to come up with a better adjustable apparatus....

I just made something very simple for mine. Not sure if your intake is similar.
The back of my stove has a thin metal plate with writing (UL, etc.) which covers the hole but is open at the bottom.
The gap at the bottom is @ 3/8" between the plate and the stove. I folded some thin aluminum flashing and then cut an angle on it.
I slide it between the plate and the stove and it fits snug enough that I can slide it up and down to vary how much of the intake is covered.
I haven't tried it with the stove running yet but, even if I don't use it to vary normal burn, it will be hanging there and I can slam it shut in an emergency.


slide.jpg
 
icy99... my chimney is 6" and that elbow design would work and it might make getting to it easier. perhaps i could rig something up with an elbow and an adjustable plate inside the pipe to control the air.... right now i have to lay on the hearth pad to put the foil on...

been burning all weekend... never needed the foil, stove is running perfect right now?? blasted thing!

brian VT... thats an interesting thing there, i don't know if that would work for me though...
 
trailblaze said:
the darn foil kept falling off, so i need to figure out a better method...


To hold the foil on try using one of those aluminum compression straps (I know it probable has a more specific name) that holds the flexible ducting on the dryer exhaust outlet. It would at least keep the foil from falling off.

I like the 90 degree elbow with a damper idea.
 
i also have a dutchwest that will rumble and get hot on a really cold nite ,(draft really hard)in the shop that i work i made a secondary air control
took a piece of metal pipe added a set screw to lock over bottom of air pipe as a collar then cut a plate that would cover the pipe then a side flange with a bolt and spring to keep tight then a shoulder bolt on bottom to open and close works like a charm
 
Yea, I'd like to see a pic too. You don't have to do anything complicated to post a pic, you don't have to use a photo hosting website, just click the "browse" button next to attachments - you should see this when you are posting a reply.

Anyway, someone should start selling these things.
About the elbow w/ damper idea - I like the simplicity, and I think the size does match the standard dryer vent so you should be able to find all the parts at your local hardware store. My only concern would be that if the damper was not tight enough or somehow locked down, the draft could open it up on its own after you closed it.
 
nice... whats the square thing with the handle on it?? is it part of the design?

"metal pipe added a set screw to lock over bottom of air pipe as a collar then cut a plate that would cover the pipe then a side flange with a bolt and spring to keep tight then a shoulder bolt on bottom to open and close"

how does the side flange and spring attach? the shoulder bolt... is this sort of the "part" to use to move this??
 
square thing= ash shovel (homemade)

on cold roll steel pipe(not stove air pipe) bottom outside edge weld a 1.5 X1.5 x1/4 thick crs
drill a 1/4 clearance hole though 1/4 pcs.
weld same size pcs. on side of cover plate , drill and tap 1/4-20 hole then put a 1/4-20 bolt though medium spring though pipe edge then place into bottom plate ,which will keep plate against pipe then put a boltin bottom plate to act as handle
hope this helps ,if not i can draw and post a print
going to work will check tonite
 
nah... i kinda get it now...

thats a nice design... a tad too complicated for me... no welder!

i might look for a elbow and damper to put together... i have limited capabilities with metal tools, ie. no welder/ drill press/ cutting tools
 
tradergordo said:
..... My only concern would be that if the damper was not tight enough or somehow locked down, the draft could open it up on its own after you closed it.

You are right Trader. I have been thinking about that more too. I think I'll have to design a device so that if it ever fails, the air shuts off completely. Failure mode makes the fire go out instead of melting the stove. Perhaps something similar to my Resolute spring-loaded 'teardrop', but at the end of an elboe. I'll come up with something soon.
 
wonder if you could attach a sliding plate like roadkill did, but put it on the end of a elbow? that way the draft couldnt open/close the damper
 
trailblaze said:
nah... i kinda get it now...

thats a nice design... a tad too complicated for me... no welder!

i might look for a elbow and damper to put together... i have limited capabilities with metal tools, ie. no welder/ drill press/ cutting tools

I'm in the same boat...put that thing on the market and I'm good for one!
 
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