Hotblast 1557M

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laynes69 said:
I was going to fabricate some. I have it all thought out, but haven't got the materials yet. I rebuilt the whole inside of my furnace 2 years ago. It would be nothing to run some rectangular tubing on the back and sides, and put a few tubes across the tubing. I have some 1/4 wall 1" tubing I was going to use for the tubes. Just drill the tubing for the tubes to slide into place. Air could stay open in the back, or a flap could be put across the pipe in back to regulate. Nothing would be changed, except for you would reroute the air coming in across the baffle.
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Sounds interesting!
 
I put the other magnetic thermometer on the front of my firebox and its reading about 80-100 degrees higher than my flue thermo. That puts me in the 400-450 degree range that laynes has been talking about so that makes me feel a little better. Just to clarify for anyone reading this for extra input my flue pipe is running at a 45 degree angle to the chimney which might make that temp a little lower(which is acceptable my manufacturers install instructions; At least one inch rise per foot to the chimney connection).

I'm just wondering if closing off the feed door adjustable damper all the way and then leaving the screw hole in the back open some isn't over-complicating things.

It seems to me they both serve the same function. Except that the feed door damper is a lot easier to adjust than the screw plug in the back. I mean they both let combustible air over the top of fire. Let me know if I'm missing something. I'm still learning on this unit(but it has been fun tweaking it and the house is as toasty as its ever been!)
 
Just a quick update on my last post... I went down to check on the fire before turning in again... the thermo over the feed door is reading 550 F and my flue pipe temp is 330 F. This is with the front door damper choked down almost to the lowest setting. I think I just wasn't putting enough wood in to keep a good fire going(to keep the flue temp up) and also being able to choke the damper down to get a 6-8 hour burn. Just want to thank you guys for all your input. It has really accelerated the learning curve for me!
 
To get that kind of temp are you guys using a damper in the stove pipe? I cant get my firebox above 300 and the stove pipe above 225. Not using a damper wondering if this would help
 
ffcmckinney said:
To get that kind of temp are you guys using a damper in the stove pipe? I cant get my firebox above 300 and the stove pipe above 225. Not using a damper wondering if this would help
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damper would help cool it. what kind of wood you using?
 
laynes69 said:
I'm burning wild cherry and maple. They are larger splits, around 6 inches. When it gets super cold, I burn the locusts at night, and I choose only rounds. Try something, remove the rear pipe plug and keep that open. Then keep the door damper closed, and regulate with the ash pan. On my unit there are 2 or 3 little holes on the damper in the door. I peek through those to make sure I have a solid flame at the baffle. Instead of burning the whole pile at once, It will slowly burn at the bottom, and I get flames above the wood. It will burn for 2 to 3 hours before the wood on top will start to catch fire. Meanwhile it will have a temp of 400 to 450. Once you have a good coal bed, I would load, then run the spin damper open for about 15 minutes. From there, you can shut the ashpan damper down to around 1 turn open. By almost closing the ashpan damper, and having the door damper closed. It will force air from the back of the firebox right below the baffle. This is where you will have your primary combustion. It works well for me. Took a few years to figure it out. I was going to put in secondary burn tubes, But I might not because I get the same effect by closing the ashpan down. One thing to keep in mind is I need around 350 on the front of the furnace to keep a good secondary combustion.
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I tried this method last night on my Hot blast......Put 4 larger splits of cherry in at 10 pm over a nice bed of coals. ash pan spinner closed....house temp 72*...1600 sq. ft. ranch.... at 3 am dog was making a big fuss and woke me up.... apperently he does not appreciate the house at 83*...he wanted out to lay on the cool deck. At 5:45 am the blower fan finally shut off.... house started to cool off...it's still 75 in here.

Maybe i'll try 3 splits tonight.. %-P

I'm impressed with this routine as I was only getting heat untill about 3:00 am by using the ash pan spinner.
 
I'm burnig a mix of seasoned oak, maple, and ash. The damper in the stove pipe would actually raise the fire box tempeture, or am I looking at it backwards.
 
ffcmckinney said:
I'm burnig a mix of seasoned oak, maple, and ash. The damper in the stove pipe would actually raise the fire box tempeture, or am I looking at it backwards.
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if the damper is vertical its wide open if its horizonal its slow burn!
 
I do not currently have a damper installed. I guess the question I'm getting at should I put a damper in? I understand how the damper works but I believe you said that a damper would cool it down.
 
ffcmckinney said:
I do not currently have a damper installed. I guess the question I'm getting at should I put a damper in? I understand how the damper works but I believe you said that a damper would cool it down.
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Not in the vertal it will burn wide open.I have one but never use it in less iam burning hedge apple.If your house is getting to much heat then i would get one.
 
FFC, whats the size of your chimney? If you don't get enough draft, you won't get heat. Too much draft will also allow too much air through the firebox, resulting from a lot of heat loss through the flue. If you are getting an overdraft, then a damper will help you. That way you get a more efficient burn in the firebox. Some details needed to figure our your problem. Also when I use the door damper, it doesn't get too hot in the unit. Its more of a natural burn.
 
ffc, I have a damper in my flue pipe and I haven't had to close it yet when I burn. It is nice to know it's there if the flue is getting too hot or in the event that there would be a chimney fire(so I could turn it closed to cut off the air). I've had some white oak burn pretty hot to the point where I've thought about it but closing the door damper all the way has regulated pretty well so far. Laynes, I'm home tomorrow so I think I'll try taking out the air inlet in the back and see how that goes. I'll let you know how it works!
 
I have an 8X12 masonry chimney clay tile 24' tall. I honestly beleive I have to much draft. I opened the cleanout door and iit felt like it would suck a paper bag up threw.
 
ffcmckinney said:
I have an 8X12 masonry chimney clay tile 24' tall. I honestly beleive I have to much draft. I opened the cleanout door and iit felt like it would suck a paper bag up threw.
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You need a damper thats alot of draft. You will have alot more control over the heat output as well
 
I will put a damper in and try it. Worst case scenario I 'll have to leave it open. I will let you know how it works out. Thank you everyone
 
davejerry said:
thanks everyone. I'll be working on this system in the next several days (have lots of other time sensitive projects going on). I just received a honeywell to replace my thermodisc. I'll let you know how things turn out. I do appreciate the help. thanks.
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..... A quick update on my last post....
I installed the honeywell which made a world of difference and rerouted my cold air return; boy that made a huge difference. I invested in a moisture meter which helps a great deal as to know whether I'm putting on a damp log or not. I don't have the forced air kit as I seem to have a sufficient draft. I counted 9 turns/spins on the spin draft knob to close it completely. At night, and with a good fire going, I've closed it up to 7 spins in however I'm still not getting a long burn; usually about 3-4 hours. I have a mix of hardwoods and I try to select logs that are below 15% moisture. Any tips on getting longer burns? Also, sometimes my box temps are up to 600 and sometimes a little more. What is the highest rated temp on the Hotblast 1557M? And what could happen if that is exceeded? Can it explode? Don't forget I'm still a newbie and this is my 1st time with a wood furnace.
 
davejerry said:
davejerry said:
thanks everyone. I'll be working on this system in the next several days (have lots of other time sensitive projects going on). I just received a honeywell to replace my thermodisc. I'll let you know how things turn out. I do appreciate the help. thanks.
Click to expand...

..... A quick update on my last post....
I installed the honeywell which made a world of difference and rerouted my cold air return; boy that made a huge difference. I invested in a moisture meter which helps a great deal as to know whether I'm putting on a damp log or not. I don't have the forced air kit as I seem to have a sufficient draft. I counted 9 turns/spins on the spin draft knob to close it completely. At night, and with a good fire going, I've closed it up to 7 spins in however I'm still not getting a long burn; usually about 3-4 hours. I have a mix of hardwoods and I try to select logs that are below 15% moisture. Any tips on getting longer burns? Also, sometimes my box temps are up to 600 and sometimes a little more. What is the highest rated temp on the Hotblast 1557M? And what could happen if that is exceeded? Can it explode? Don't forget I'm still a newbie and this is my 1st time with a wood furnace.
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If you over fire it l the paint pill off not sure how hot that is just dont leave your ash pan door open! And Longer burn times are you getting a good bank of coals?
 
I'm a little confused, are you opening your ashpan damper all the way and then counting back 7 turns? Couldn't you just start from all the way closed and count 2 turns? Either way, thats a lot of air coming in which could be why it's burning so hot and your burn times are so short. Have you tried just one turn or less?
 
I wouldn't run it at 600 all the time. Especially with the stock blowers. You are getting a hot temp, but its burning your wood from the bottom up too quickly. Thats why I have the back open with the forced draft. That way I damper to almost closed on the bottom, when I do that, it draws in above the fire and I get a nice steady fire. I'm usually in the 400 range at night. Loading it tightly will help and before the whole load gets engulfed in flames, damper back. I would get it to 450 then damper it back and watch your temps. With mine having the back open, when I damper mine in the ashpan, my firebox temps rise because of the secondary air over the fire. If you don't have the forced draft, is the plug open, if so 2 turns is way too much air. I close mine to no more than 1 turn open at night. This way I have coals in the morning, and a clean chimney.
 
laynes69 said:
I wouldn't run it at 600 all the time. Especially with the stock blowers. You are getting a hot temp, but its burning your wood from the bottom up too quickly. Thats why I have the back open with the forced draft. That way I damper to almost closed on the bottom, when I do that, it draws in above the fire and I get a nice steady fire. I'm usually in the 400 range at night. Loading it tightly will help and before the whole load gets engulfed in flames, damper back. I would get it to 450 then damper it back and watch your temps. With mine having the back open, when I damper mine in the ashpan, my firebox temps rise because of the secondary air over the fire. If you don't have the forced draft, is the plug open, if so 2 turns is way too much air. I close mine to no more than 1 turn open at night. This way I have coals in the morning, and a clean chimney.
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I am running just like you but ash pan door damper closed all the way.
 
The back plug wide open and one turn with the ash pan door might work with a barometric damper installed. If you don't have one and have a pretty big draft as I do, this is still too much air coming in. I would just keep playing with the dampers until you reach the temperatures Laynes mentioned. On mine, just the back plug all the way open is too much.
 
matt701 said:
The back plug wide open and one turn with the ash pan door might work with a barometric damper installed. If you don't have one and have a pretty big draft as I do, this is still too much air coming in. I would just keep playing with the dampers until you reach the temperatures Laynes mentioned. On mine, just the back plug all the way open is too much.
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Thats why i turn mine all the way down(ash draw damper) and also use 6" Barometric Draft Regulator
 
I also have the 6" barometric reg. which is installed immediately where the flue comes out of the furnace. My flue damper is located approx. 8" before the wall collar; however the flue (6") continues approx. another 18" directly to the chimney (masonry). I get a good chimney draft. How far should I damper down the flue damper? I set the ash pan damper all the way closed then 2 spins out/open. I do this after I get a good fire going otherwise, if the fire is too low and with only 2 spins open, the fire dies down. Currently I don't have the back plug off but I'll take it out to see what happens. Is behind the plug (on the inside of the furnace) a sealed chamber or can flames/fumes get out? Also, I have the stock blowers which really doesn't put out a whole lot of air. If I keep on adding a log or 2 every 2-3 hours (that's annoying) to keep the fire going how long can these blowers last? I've had them going steady for 6-8 hours. Is that normal? My house temps usually run 65-68 in a 1200 sq. ft house. The factory told me that this furnace should handle up to 2500 sq. ft. What else am I doing wrong?
 
Pull the plug out of the rear of the unit...it's the 1 1/2" pipe plug directly under the outlet pipe. You can regulate the size of the opening with a piece of tape if you need too. I have a ball valve on mine, and run it about 1/2 open...

For a good overnight burn, I start with a good bed of coals, top with 4-6 large splits..(red oak)(some will just fit through door) ash door cracked open for about 4 min ( make sure wood is starting to char over) and box temp. is hot....close door, ash damper open 1/2 turn, for about 1/2 hour then close ash door spinner closed. Lasts about 6 hours until blowers shut off....but still have a bed of coals to get things rolling again.
 
My blower runs 24/7. I wouldn't worry about the blowers running, which is a good thing. As long as they are on, you have heat! I'll open mine up 1 turn at night, and still have coals in the mornings. But I burn locust at night. I like around a 400 degree burn at night. When it hits below zero or close, I will hit 550 to 600 at night, and reload every 4 hours.
 
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