UPDATE - Help-new insert-no heat above 300 degrees

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Ans,
I understand your view, and we all have our personal views on everything.

Here are a few things I considered strictly by what I read and of course am not there or seeing the install.

Every install is different, unless its a suburban development where every home is the same, each install will have its own circumstances.
That said, it impossible for an installer to have a set means of installation that works for ever case. This installer was trying to save the owner some cash.
Maybe he has done stub ins in other instances with say a taller chimney and had no problems due to a good draft. I am not defending the installer, as I don't even believe in stub ins, but it is practiced in areas and appears some have no problems. I had one here prior to me ripping the old POS insert out and replacing along with a full liner.

What no one seams to be asking, is how did it pass inspection the first time? Was there an inspection? And if so, why is not one lynching the inspector? They get paid a fee, and are the end of the line as far as considering it a safe & proper install or not. Seams to me the inspector did not even inspect it the second time around, but merely asked what do you want, fail? Ok its failed. That is hardly an inspection, and he may be partly to blame in the first place if he did an original inspection. What if it was a good install and full liner etc. And without inspection he said you want it to fail? Ok its failed. Is that right practices?

Another point....
Scenario: Ok everyone, I am purchasing a new insert and the dealer is bringing it Friday for install. Got a decent price of $3,000.00 for the whole thing installed liner & all.
If the home owner does not ask & know exactly what the $3,000.00 is buying him, its also partly his fault. Questions like: Is it a full liner to top? Is a lower block off plate installed? Is it insulated?
Etc etc etc. Not just, I purchased a Summit for x amount of dollars and the install is x amount of dollars, I am all set.

If the owner now says ok, what does this labor exactly cover? and Is it a full liner etc. What about a damper block off plate? If not included, how much to install one? Etc Etc.

The installer is more than willing to go back and make things right. How many dealers are actually willing to do that without having to call them 10x before they even come out to look at the problem?
The guy is offering to do a full liner for just the extra cost of material, which would have to be paid in the first place. And it takes more labor to run a full liner than just a stub in. If he is willing to do the full liner for free even though its more labor intensive, and the owner is ok with that. Then by all means go for it. In my book, if the installer is so far showing very good faith and has not given any resistance, after the situation is rectified and if all is right and stove running well, I would keep tabs on the labor performed, the ease or difficulty of the full liner install, which is not as easy as a stub in, the guys attitude and factor all in. If the guy comes, works hard, does it right and treats me right, I'd prolly give him A hundred or couple hundred dollars for the extra work. That is just me though, and we all have our ways ways of doing things.

Figure it this way, how many guys came, unloaded the stove, installed the liner or had to deal with the damper opening etc, 4 hrs you said, but does that include the travel from & to their shop, and them to load the stove on the truck etc? 4 hours may actually been 5 or 6? And if more than 1 guy now you are splitting that labor amount in half or more? Do what you feel is right in your mind.
Me I'd start at $100.00 and possibly do $200.00. His good faith and your good faith. Thats just me.
 
It wasn't inspected until she had the inspector come out.
 
ok no initial inspection, roger that. Why bother getting a permit then? Round here, you pull a permit, you automatically must get it inspected.
 
wow

the inspector didn't remove the face plate and just failed it upon request.. sounds like a very bad inspector - i know many here disagee with our last inspector BUT at least he makes sure everything is in place and looks at everything he's paid to look at
 
I too would probably throw the guy a few bucks.
I was quoted over twice that amount for my insert install.
Although, the toughest part was running the liner.

I had a chimney sweep who suggested NO liner at all.

Slam er in theyre and seel around it, ittle werk, and sav ya some munney too. %-P

He actually thought it was cool to do, and did want to save me some cash.
I have a 6" stove outlet and a 13"x18" inside diameter chimney. It would have never worked.
I did the full liner install myself. Everything works great.

Brad
 
I have been reading all the posts on this thread and have a few questions. I had an insert installed in a fireplace that is open on both sides in the middle of the room. The insert was hooked up to a 6" ss liner that extends to the top of the flue (12 x 12) and four inches beyond that. There was no block off plate installed or insulation installed. Should there have been? Where? I have to open the door of the 550 about 1" to get a good draft. Insert does not seem to have a good fire, just smolders but does burn all night long. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
there is always a plate on top of the flue. And most of us install one at the bottom just below the old fireplace damper.
You have an interior chimney so insulation is not overly needed, but in your case might help the draft. Better help yet would be extend the top of the chimney a few more feet with some rigid connected to the flex.
 
labrador said:
I have been reading all the posts on this thread and have a few questions. I had an insert installed in a fireplace that is open on both sides in the middle of the room. The insert was hooked up to a 6" ss liner that extends to the top of the flue (12 x 12) and four inches beyond that. There was no block off plate installed or insulation installed. Should there have been? Where? I have to open the door of the 550 about 1" to get a good draft. Insert does not seem to have a good fire, just smolders but does burn all night long. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.

i have the same set up (direct connect) BUT i do have a block off plate and have no trouble getting the insert up to 700 and the fire is always raging

i did insulate around the inside of chimney with rockwool
 
hogwildz and stevebass4, Thanks for the advice, SB did you use rockwool just at the bottom of the 12 x 12 flue or the top or both. As I look in the flue the liner goes up one side of the damper and the other side is wide open. Is the temp of 700 an ir meter or a magnetic one?
 
Hello-
This is my first post. I've been lurking on this forum for many years, and to say the least, learned alot.
I'm so intregued by this thread I felt like it needed to be brought back ttt to see if there has been any positive out come from all of what has transpired?
,Dan
 
Smoke_Stick said:
Hello-
This is my first post. I've been lurking on this forum for many years, and to say the least, learned alot.
I'm so intregued by this thread I felt like it needed to be brought back ttt to see if there has been any positive out come from all of what has transpired?
,Dan

Hi Smoke stick, welcome to the forum! Good to know that you've been reading and learning. Here's a link to an updated thread on this post:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/30637/





Mod, care to close this one?
 
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