Tips for actual pellet insert install

Never did one of these but to slide the stove in and out use a piece of cardboard to use as a slide... it should keep from scratching the hearth.

Just installed my Insert. cant help on the Hearth fitting bits, but the Insulation is just standard Fiberglass. No Backing on it though. Whatever you do about sliding it in, just be carefull with the Combustion Blower underneath. There are two little guards around it but be carefull. My Hearth is flat. i used a Piece of 2*4 under the front edge. As yours id raised you may have to use a couple to build it up. I know they suggest something like this in the Manual.
My Chimney Pipe goes just up into the Liner.(5 foot Duravent) I havent gone all the way up as I found there to be a split decision on whether you have to . As long as the Liner in the chimney is in good condition. I do have a tall chimney so I'm waiting to see if I get any issues. So far the smoke, what there is is coming out the top.
Good Luck.

I installed my insert last September. Answers are:
1. There is a stove frame that is a separate piece from the body. That is what is placed in the fireplace and leveled as needed and lagged in place. The stove vent pipe up the chimney attaches to this frame. (There is a high temp gasket on the insert that mates with the frame when the insert is slid in and clamped.

2 the stove slides on cloth covered rails in this frame about 12". Build a 2 x 4 frame (see manual) to slide all the way out or for installation and yearly maintenance.

3. Pack fiberglass insulation around the flex pipe to stop heat from going up the chimney (see manual)

This is how I have been installing pellet inserts for about 17 years.
There are many ways and kinds of vent to use but I just find this is the Lowest cost, Simple for installers, and the best way to install due to the materails used.
but again everyone has there own idea.

If the stove has a Rear exit we use a single wall T clean out.
RM3TR 3” True Tee Inlet, Fits Most Pellet Exhausts $37.00

We use 5 feet of Olympic Flex around the damper
Forever Flex™ Stainless Steel liners .005 thickness, 316TI stainless steel, U.L. listed. Lighter weight, welded design provides greater
flexibility. http://www.olympiachimney.com/proForever.htm about $15.00 per foot.

then use a Duravent 12" adjustable Slip to adapt from the Flex to Pellet vent.
USE RED RTV and seal and slip the flex into the Duravent Flex and use 4 Screws through the Slip section into the flex.

Then run Duravent Pellet vent the rest of the way up screw Each joint with 3 screws.

Cap of the top of the fireplace with a Custom chase cap to be 100% water prof. Any water leaks down the chimney it will fry your pellet stove.


Storm Collar and then a duravent Pellet cap

On chimneys that are less than 15 feet we will use 3" vent all the way up. (if the stove has a 3" vent)
Over 15 feet we will use 3" flex around the damper. FIRST 5 FEET then go to 4" with a Duravent Slip joint connected to a 3- 4 increaser the 4" pellet vent the rest of the way
using 3" just makes it easy to get around the damper and or between Heatform Tubes.

dccampli said:

What kind of insulation can I use at the flue base to prevent
cold air from coming into house when stove is off? Dealer told
me to use 6 ft flex into existing chimney. Will do this until I
can find a chimney guy to reline all the way to top.

Thanks,
-DC

Click to expand...

If you're going to just stick 6 ft of flex up the chimney then you'd
be best to make a steel block off plate where the chimney damper used
to be. This will keep out the cold air.

Imo it's best to do it right the first time though rather than
having to spend time and money twice.

We aren't "chimney guys" - far from it, but my brother and I installed
the stove ourselves using flex from the cleanout T behind the stove
all the way up the chimney then connected that into the cap kit
which anchors to the top of the flue with concrete
anchoring screws. The cap kit has a built in sealing plate that
prevents cold air from coming in.

also if you just put 6 feed half a$$ install
soot will suck into the room air blower and into your home

I think I have thread here about this with photos of a half install I fixed
http://www.hearthtools.com/install/dirty_insert/index.htm

here is a few about half pipe install
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/9594/#111119
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/10592/

Good post!

I am installing my Quadra•Fire Mt. Vernon AE this weekend. Can't wait to get those 60,000 BTUs going.

I too am curios to how to hook up the vent and level before the stove is "pushed in".

I think I understand the venting.

Is this correct?

Stove -> 3" T with cleanout -> 3" Flexible Pellet Vent -> 3"to 8" adaptor (I have a 8" double wall chimney pipe that is in great condition, barely used).

69StingRay:

Your Mt Vernon AE has two clamps on each side of a short piece of pipe on the back of the stove where the exhaust outlet is. Undo these clamps and you will have a short piece of 3" pipe with a flange that comes off. I just installed my AE and used a 5' long piece of 3" flex pipe from this to get through the damper area and then used an increaser to go to 4" flex pipe the rest of the way up the chimney. The reason I'm mentioning this is that I don't think you need to use, or can use, a T adapter with this stove. Once the flex pipe is connected to the piece that is clamped to the AE you simply unclamp the pipe, push it away from the stove, clean the pipe then clamp it back on the stove. Now that my stove is installed I can remove the side panel, unclamp the pipe and reclamp it without pulling the stove out. Be careful when clamping the pipe on after it's installed so you don't damage the gasket.

A clean out tee seems better suited to stoves where the exhaust exit is horizontal, not stoves like the AE where the exhaust exit is vertical. I hope this makes sense, if not let me know and I'll try to explain better.

69StingRay:

I forgot to mention in my last post that my fireplace hearth is about 1" higher than the firebox. The Mount Vernon AE has 4 leveling screws, one in each corner. I just started these bolts in their holes before sliding it in. After it was in I used these leveling bolts to level the stove by making sure the sides were parallel to the fireplace opening.

If it were me I would not try to adapt to the 8" zero clearance pipe.
Pellet stoves are POSITIVE pressure Venting (air is pushed into it)
if that 8" chimney is what I think it is it is not very well sealed and it is AIR cooled so I dont think it will draft the smoke out very well if you lost power.

I would run 4" all the way to the top and seal off the top and bottom.

Thanks for all of the great replies.

Good to know the exhaust pipe is accessible from the side panel, I was not looking forward to pulling the stove out once a year.

I was hoping not to have to run a 4" pipe up my chimney, but if I do, I will.

Will the 8" double not work? It is insulated between the two walls. From what I have seen of the 4" "pellet" pipe, they look the same except the 8" is insulated between the pipes. Is the 8" too wide and the exhaust fan can't blow out through the 8" diameter (loss of pressure)?

I have the pipe ran up my 8" chimney, it was not as tough of a project as I thought.

What is the best way to connect the 3" flexible pipe to the exhaust on the stove?

Looking for opinions on the cold air intake. My previous zero-clearance fireplace had a cold air intake, so the hose is already available. Any advantages to run without it (or with it)?

1. Install and run wire from thermostat [COMPLETE]
2. Install 3" pipe in chimney (bottom 5' flexible) [COMPLETE]
3. Install cold air duct [COMPLETE]

What is the best way to attach the 3" flexible pipe to the exhaust of the stove?