Chainsaw Safety Advice

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Slow1

Minister of Fire
Nov 26, 2008
2,677
Eastern MA
I'm creating this thread to ask advice on saw safety. Basically since I hijacked my own thread elsewhere onto this topic (being new to all this) I tried searching on this topic and didn't find a topic that had consolidated list of rules or guidelines on how to safely operate or learn how to safely operate a saw.

I'd like to ask for any advice here - how to go about learning, how to actually do it well and safely and any reasonable quips on mistakes made (and lessons learned).

Thanks in advance.
 
Chaps,face gaurd and i always keep my head to the left of the bar when cutting if it kicks back it will go up and to the right of my head.Always put the brake on after your cut!
 
Best if you can learn from someone who knows what they are doing. Watch them and then have them watch you.

Google "chain saw safety." There are tons of information out there.

Never cut with a dull saw.

Learn how to sharpen the chain and what is proper chain tension.

Watch where the end of the bar is and know if it is going to hit something. Never let it touch the ground. If it does, stop and sharpen the chain.

Naturally, the proper safety equipment.

I'll not touch on felling for now as you apparently are not going to fell trees just yet. Just know it is dangerous.

When bucking up those logs, if possible, get the log off the ground. Otherwise, cut almost, but not quite through the log. Make all the cuts, then roll the log to finish the cuts. This will keep you from trying to cut the ground! A very handy tool for this job is a cant hook. A real good one can be had for less than $100. I hate being without one!

Let the saw do the work. Your job is to guide the saw, hold the throttle, and move the saw from one place to another along with other necessary things like starting and stopping the saw.

There is much, much more and I'll let others chime in here for the rest.
 
stihl has a one hour video on chain saw selection, operation, miantenance and safety. It is now available free on line.
general, but pretty good for new users.
 
Check with your dealer about local 1-2 day saw safety & use training workshops. Frequently Stihl in conjunction with a dealer or cooperative extension will sponsor training workshops that over a weekend cover everything from basic maintenance, filing, and operation. These are well worth your time and effort. Virtually every self taught user I come across has appallingly bad habits that they have developed; that is to be avoided if at all possible.

I have to do yearly professional saw training, and after almost 20 years of cutting and having been to a dozen trainings, it I still pickup all kinds of tips and clean up bad habits at each workshop.
 
When dropping trees always have an escape route. Than means any direction you can drop your saw and run without obstruction. I personally have used this advice.
 
Think about where a tree is going to fall before cutting it, not where you want it to fall. Doing the latter you will pinch saws (make sure you have two), or things going very wrong quickly. Also, get many more wedges before you cut (trust me they are great when you use them). Use the right tool for the job at hand. I'd much rather (yes I've done it every way) have the right tool and spend the money, than try and use something that I really shouldn't have used. May be a bit vague so:
If you are going to cut a lot and feel you could use a bigger saw, get it. Makes the job itself much easier which in turn makes you less tired and job gets done right without cutting corners.
PPE is a given and been stated above.
 
here's what i use in my chainsaw shop for sales.
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click on it so you can read it !
 
split this said:
When dropping trees always have an escape route. Than means any direction you can drop your saw and run without obstruction. I personally have used this advice.

I've never ran from a tree in my life! Nor do I drop my saw! I simply carry the saw and walk away at an angle. Very simple and safe.

Picking an escape route is extremely easy. Turn and go away from it at an angle. Let's say the direction the tree falls is zero degrees. Then with you standing on the left side of the tree, you would be at 270 degrees. Simply go away from the tree at about 235 degrees. I hope this makes sense to all.

I know of a couple of guys who all their time of cutting are scared to death because they've had limbs shoot at them as the tree falls or even the butt shooting backwards. After I straightened them out on where to go after the cut, they are much more at ease.

However, before you start cutting, make sure that path is clear!
 
Be careful cutting over head. I rarely have to do this and I can't remember what the big deal is, but I've had several knowledgeable professionals tell me this.
 
When you're out on a limb, don't cut the limb between you and the trunk.
 
Bigg_Redd said:
Be careful cutting over head. I rarely have to do this and I can't remember what the big deal is, but I've had several knowledgeable professionals tell me this.

I'm still very much a rookie with a saw & won't cut over my head. Everything up to waist high feels comfortable & controllable. Over my waist & I start to feel less controlled. I just plain won't run the saw over my head.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
split this said:
When dropping trees always have an escape route. Than means any direction you can drop your saw and run without obstruction. I personally have used this advice.
I've never ran from a tree in my life! Nor do I drop my saw! I simply carry the saw and walk away at an angle. Very simple and safe.Picking an escape route is extremely easy. Turn and go away from it at an angle. Let's say the direction the tree falls is zero degrees. Then with you standing on the left side of the tree, you would be at 270 degrees. Simply go away from the tree at about 235 degrees. I hope this makes sense to all.
I know of a couple of guys who all their time of cutting are scared to death because they've had limbs shoot at them as the tree falls or even the butt shooting backwards. After I straightened them out on where to go after the cut, they are much more at ease.
However, before you start cutting, make sure that path is clear!

Exceptional advice.
With training AND experience felling, the fall is planned. YOU "tell" the tree where YOU want it to go. The right mouth, the correct
backcuts ( yes, plural ) using wedges ( not "wedgies" ) if needed to direct the fall.
Plan, think, execute. And : "Be careful out there" ( Hill Street Blues ).
 
downeast said:
Backwoods Savage said:
split this said:
When dropping trees always have an escape route. Than means any direction you can drop your saw and run without obstruction. I personally have used this advice.
I've never ran from a tree in my life! Nor do I drop my saw! I simply carry the saw and walk away at an angle. Very simple and safe.Picking an escape route is extremely easy. Turn and go away from it at an angle. Let's say the direction the tree falls is zero degrees. Then with you standing on the left side of the tree, you would be at 270 degrees. Simply go away from the tree at about 235 degrees. I hope this makes sense to all.
I know of a couple of guys who all their time of cutting are scared to death because they've had limbs shoot at them as the tree falls or even the butt shooting backwards. After I straightened them out on where to go after the cut, they are much more at ease.
However, before you start cutting, make sure that path is clear!

Exceptional advice.
With training AND experience felling, the fall is planned. YOU "tell" the tree where YOU want it to go. The right mouth, the correct
backcuts ( yes, plural ) using wedges ( not "wedgies" ) if needed to direct the fall.
Plan, think, execute. And : "Be careful out there" ( Hill Street Blues ).
Yes great advice but I dought that I will ever be at ease when felling a tree.Big rush when its over!
 
No matter the amount of experience and planning, something can go wrong. An escape route is mandatory, depending on the under growth one can be "made" easily, however, around this neck of the woods, with 10' high shalal thick enough that a man can not walk through it, the escape path can take much longer to make than the actual falling of the tree.
Your escape route should be easy enough to walk so that you can keep your eyes upward watching for falling debris, whether you take along your saw for the ride is up to you, but sometimes its wise to just drop it a few feet from the stump as you are walking backwards.

Most trees can be dropped in three directions using a variety of methods, but never should one assume that the tree will fall in the planned direction every time. Rookies often leave unintentional "dutchman" in their undercuts, causing the tree to lurch in the opposite direction of the "dutchman", often causing the tree to break off from its holding wood earlier than wanted, which in turn lets the tree fall wherever its leaning at that time. or worse, cause a barber chair.

Always remember to anticipate what will happen when the tree falls, what is it going to land on? Will it cause some chain reaction that could cause a chunk of debris on the ground to launch itself into the air back at you? Common sense and caution is always the rule.....and remember to keep your top thumb locked under your handle bar at all times.

Cheers....
 
valleyflyfisher said:
No matter the amount of experience and planning, something can go wrong. An escape route is mandatory, depending on the under growth one can be "made" easily, however, around this neck of the woods, with 10' high shalal thick enough that a man can not walk through it, the escape path can take much longer to make than the actual falling of the tree.
Your escape route should be easy enough to walk so that you can keep your eyes upward watching for falling debris, whether you take along your saw for the ride is up to you, but sometimes its wise to just drop it a few feet from the stump as you are walking backwards.

Most trees can be dropped in three directions using a variety of methods, but never should one assume that the tree will fall in the planned direction every time. Rookies often leave unintentional "dutchman" in their undercuts, causing the tree to lurch in the opposite direction of the "dutchman", often causing the tree to break off from its holding wood earlier than wanted, which in turn lets the tree fall wherever its leaning at that time. or worse, cause a barber chair.

Always remember to anticipate what will happen when the tree falls, what is it going to land on? Will it cause some chain reaction that could cause a chunk of debris on the ground to launch itself into the air back at you? Common sense and caution is always the rule.....and remember to keep your top thumb locked under your handle bar at all times.

Cheers....

EXCELLENT ADVICE !
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A few observations based on personal experience and observation of others:

1. Don't ever assume that someone who has cut a lot knows what they're doing.

2. Tiredness and saws don't mix - don't cut when you're tired, don't run a tired or dull saw.

3. PPE - always wear your boots, chaps, eye, and ear protection. Wear gloves unless you're one of those people who absolutely cannot stand to wear them. If felling, seriously consider wearing a helmet; you don't need one when cutting stacked up logs in your yard, in my opinion.

4. Buy Mr. Beranek's book, Fundamentals of General Tree Work. Read it. You'll learn a lot.

4a. After reading Mr. Beranek's book, watch some of Eric's videos (member name EKKA on Arboristsite, owner of TreeWorld dot info forum, owner of Brisbane Palm and Tree Services at palmtreeservices dot com dot au). Also watch some of the not-in-english Scandanavian felling videos for an interesting view of some wise but non-American techniques.

5. Take good care of your equipment, and buy good equipment.

6. Use wedges to keep the kerf open when blocking up firewood. Getting your saw stuck and then yanking on it...not smart, or good for your saw.

7. Never cut with just one saw. Have a back-up to cut yourself out with, or to finish up if your main saw dies. Particularly important when felling - you never want to leave a half-felled tree standing while you go back home or to the shop to get your main saw fixed. Your 2nd saw doesn't have to be great, new, or even super powerful. It just needs to be dead reliable.

8. When in doubt, run a shorter bar. It will make your saw more lively, will mean fewer cutters to sharpen, will reduce the liklihood of sticking the tip into bad things - dirt (dull saw), other logs (kickback+injury) - and will encourage you to use the cut-and-roll technique mentioned in an earlier post, which is particularly good for firewood cutting.

9. Buy a cant hook or a timberjack. A cant hook + a log = a timberjack, though a store-bought timberjack can be nice sometimes.

10. When felling, use wedges and a sturdy ax/sledge. Have 2x or 3x as many wedges as you need before you start using them...same idea as (7), above.

11. If you are going to be felling stuff and want to use ropes to guide/control/encourage the fall, use REAL rope. Not Home Depot rope. I have been pleased with my collection of odd-length eBay pieces of Samson StableBraid, in appropriate sizes for the task at hand.

12. Practice. In a safe environment, try different techniques for cutting logs. Set up a test log at home, practice different bucking techniques.

12a. I have found that one of the most educational tools for new cutters is a "slow" saw and some 3-6" limbs. The new saw operator can actually watch the saw cut, watch the kerf widen/contract, etc. Things happen a lot faster with powerful saws and bigger logs, so this is a good way to get an introduction to the physics of wood, saws, and hinges. A little 30cc Echo and the remains of something "wet" and "soft" like a live box elder tree are ideal for this kind of learning experience.

13. Try to find a good saw shop. More than just an OPE shop, this is the place that focuses on saws, on having arborists/line clearance guys/loggers as their clients, and doesn't consider saws an incidental addition to the mowers, blowers, or tractor inventory. They'll have the parts/accessories and equipment that you actually need as a saw operator, not just a saw owner.

14. Always use good gas and great oil. 90+ octane, as little ethanol as possible, quality synthetic oil, and don't have it sit more than a month or so before you run what remains through your car and refill your saw gas container with new stuff.
 
computeruser said:
A few observations based on personal experience and observation of others:

1. Don't ever assume that someone who has cut a lot knows what they're doing.

2. Tiredness and saws don't mix - don't cut when you're tired, don't run a tired or dull saw.

3. PPE - always wear your boots, chaps, eye, and ear protection. Wear gloves unless you're one of those people who absolutely cannot stand to wear them. If felling, seriously consider wearing a helmet; you don't need one when cutting stacked up logs in your yard, in my opinion.

4. Buy Mr. Beranek's book, Fundamentals of General Tree Work. Read it. You'll learn a lot.

4a. After reading Mr. Beranek's book, watch some of Eric's videos (member name EKKA on Arboristsite, owner of TreeWorld dot info forum, owner of Brisbane Palm and Tree Services at palmtreeservices dot com dot au). Also watch some of the not-in-english Scandanavian felling videos for an interesting view of some wise but non-American techniques.

5. Take good care of your equipment, and buy good equipment.

6. Use wedges to keep the kerf open when blocking up firewood. Getting your saw stuck and then yanking on it...not smart, or good for your saw.

7. Never cut with just one saw. Have a back-up to cut yourself out with, or to finish up if your main saw dies. Particularly important when felling - you never want to leave a half-felled tree standing while you go back home or to the shop to get your main saw fixed. Your 2nd saw doesn't have to be great, new, or even super powerful. It just needs to be dead reliable.

8. When in doubt, run a shorter bar. It will make your saw more lively, will mean fewer cutters to sharpen, will reduce the liklihood of sticking the tip into bad things - dirt (dull saw), other logs (kickback+injury) - and will encourage you to use the cut-and-roll technique mentioned in an earlier post, which is particularly good for firewood cutting.

9. Buy a cant hook or a timberjack. A cant hook + a log = a timberjack, though a store-bought timberjack can be nice sometimes.

10. When felling, use wedges and a sturdy ax/sledge. Have 2x or 3x as many wedges as you need before you start using them...same idea as (7), above.

11. If you are going to be felling stuff and want to use ropes to guide/control/encourage the fall, use REAL rope. Not Home Depot rope. I have been pleased with my collection of odd-length eBay pieces of Samson StableBraid, in appropriate sizes for the task at hand.

12. Practice. In a safe environment, try different techniques for cutting logs. Set up a test log at home, practice different bucking techniques.

12a. I have found that one of the most educational tools for new cutters is a "slow" saw and some 3-6" limbs. The new saw operator can actually watch the saw cut, watch the kerf widen/contract, etc. Things happen a lot faster with powerful saws and bigger logs, so this is a good way to get an introduction to the physics of wood, saws, and hinges. A little 30cc Echo and the remains of something "wet" and "soft" like a live box elder tree are ideal for this kind of learning experience.

13. Try to find a good saw shop. More than just an OPE shop, this is the place that focuses on saws, on having arborists/line clearance guys/loggers as their clients, and doesn't consider saws an incidental addition to the mowers, blowers, or tractor inventory. They'll have the parts/accessories and equipment that you actually need as a saw operator, not just a saw owner.

14. Always use good gas and great oil. 90+ octane, as little ethanol as possible, quality synthetic oil, and don't have it sit more than a month or so before you run what remains through your car and refill your saw gas container with new stuff.

Nice thoughts and ideas !! Seconded here.
 
HELP!
Hazards - look asses and know before cuting
Escape- find your escape route (opposite of leaning direction of tree irregardless of where you are felling)
Lean- find the lean assess if direction you want to fell is doable with the or against the lean
Plan- come up with a plan and stick with it

Keep this acronym in mind every time you drop a tree
use wedges
create a real hinge- not cutting above or below your face cut, your hinge should look like an even strap of wood across the stump after tree has fallen
Learn from someone who has been trained if you can
 
Tree farmer said:
HELP!
Hazards - look asses and know before cuting
Escape- find your escape route (opposite of leaning direction of tree irregardless of where you are felling)
Lean- find the lean assess if direction you want to fell is doable with the or against the lean
Plan- come up with a plan and stick with it

Keep this acronym in mind every time you drop a tree
use wedges
create a real hinge- not cutting above or below your face cut, your hinge should look like an even strap of wood across the stump after tree has fallen
Learn from someone who has been trained if you can

More nice stuff. Sounds like serious GOL training. It all makes sense.
 
Tree farmer said:
HELP!
Hazards - look asses and know before cuting
Escape- find your escape route (opposite of leaning direction of tree irregardless of where you are felling)
Lean- find the lean assess if direction you want to fell is doable with the or against the lean
Plan- come up with a plan and stick with it

Keep this acronym in mind every time you drop a tree
use wedges
create a real hinge- not cutting above or below your face cut, your hinge should look like an even strap of wood across the stump after tree has fallen
Learn from someone who has been trained if you can


Some great advice with one reminder.....the backcut should always be slightly higher than the top of your undercut, this creates a raised backstop to the hinge and adds safety, as well as better directional control. Another good thing to remember is to always take off your holding wood (hinge) if it is more than a few inch's high....they act like a dagger(s) if fallen on, for the safety of those that fallow, hikers, hunters etc. When cutting the holding wood use the back of your bar, it shoots the "daggers" away from your body.

Cheers...
 
If the tree feels sound in the center, I put a "smile" on my backcut, leaving more holding wood in the center and almost none near the bark. This reduces the propensity to barber chair. I watch where the tree is wanting to go and turn the smile into a smirk to steer the fall.
 
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