Some advice for new Englader 13-NC stove

Heem · Dec 13, 2008

Hi all, New here at the forum and new to wood stoves in general. I've just had an Englander 13-NC installed, along with the entire chimney and pipe. I've got double wall with a 90 degree bend going out the wall and then straight up the side of my house with the expensive shiny stuff. This was all installed by professionals, so I can only assume it was done properly, since I don't have much knowledge on the topic.

Anyway, my problem is, It seems like I can't get enough air into the stove. The damper is full open, and the only way I can really get the fire burning is to leave the door open. If i close the door i just get glowing embers that eventually snuff out. Occaisionally i'll get flame with door closed but nothing rip-roaring.

This is an 1820's house, so I'm not concerned about not having enough air available in the house, although to be sure ive tried opening a nearby window to no effect.

Any words of advice would be fantastic

Thanks.

Pagey · Dec 13, 2008

How tall is the exterior chimney? Also, tell us about the wood you are using - species, how long it's been split, stacked, etc.

Heem · Dec 13, 2008

Pagey said:
How tall is the exterior chimney? Also, tell us about the wood you are using - species, how long it's been split, stacked, etc.

Exterior chimney is at least 15 feet from the ground, and 2.5 feet higher than my roof peak. The wood I have... I borrowed from my neighboor until I can get my own, so I don't know for sure, but he always has a nice fire burning in his stove. Seems to be a mix of birch and oak, but I'm no tree expert.

Thanks for the reply.

BrotherBart · Dec 13, 2008

Take two of the wood splits and smack them together. If the "ding" they are dry and ready to burn. If they "thud" they are still full of moisture. Also dry wood will start burning within a minute or so of being placed on top of hot coals. Wet wood takes a while longer.

Pagey · Dec 13, 2008

When you place some splits on the fire, do they hiss? Do you see any moisture bubbling out of the ends? Are the ends of your wood dry looking and cracked open, or are they solid? If so, I would say your problem is wet wood. These newer EPA certified stoves really prefer wood that is around 20% moisture content. If you have access to a moisture meter, split a piece of your wood and take a reading from the inside of the fresh split. Also, is your glass staying clean when you burn?

Heem · Dec 13, 2008

BrotherBart said:
Take two of the wood splits and smack them together. If the "ding" they are dry and ready to burn. If they "thud" they are still full of moisture. Also dry wood will start burning within a minute or so of being placed on top of hot coals. Wet wood takes a while longer.

Great advice thanks.

Sounds like the consensus is my wood is not dry enough. I suspected this may be part of the problem Lets see if I can come up with some known good wood.

Pagey · Dec 13, 2008

It's amazing what a difference dry wood makes. I know the oak I'm buring now is decent, but it could be much drier. I have a moisture meter due to arrive next week, as I'm curious as to exactly how wet it is. It was tops from clear cutting that were down for a while, and we bucked them and kept them in a barn since spring, but only recently were they split. Are they drier than green wood? Oh, hell yes. But is it properly seasoned oak that's been bucked, split, and stacked for 18-24 months? Umm, no. The ends are split/craked, and it's clearly not as wet as a lot of the wood I've seen people burn, but...not ideal for an EPA stove. Still, I'm getting good stove top temps (cruising at 500F-600F), clean gas, and clean exhaust when I shut the bypass damper. The real test will be cleaning the chimney for the first time, hopefully next week some time.

Bigg_Redd · Dec 13, 2008

Heem said:
Hi all, New here at the forum and new to wood stoves in general. I've just had an Englander 13-NC installed, along with the entire chimney and pipe. I've got double wall with a 90 degree bend going out the wall and then straight up the side of my house with the expensive shiny stuff. This was all installed by professionals, so I can only assume it was done properly, since I don't have much knowledge on the topic.

Anyway, my problem is, It seems like I can't get enough air into the stove. The damper is full open, and the only way I can really get the fire burning is to leave the door open. If i close the door i just get glowing embers that eventually snuff out. Occaisionally i'll get flame with door closed but nothing rip-roaring.

This is an 1820's house, so I'm not concerned about not having enough air available in the house, although to be sure ive tried opening a nearby window to no effect.

Any words of advice would be fantastic

Thanks.

You're probably right about this, but it's certainly not a given.

begreen · Dec 13, 2008

Heem said:
BrotherBart said:

Take two of the wood splits and smack them together. If the "ding" they are dry and ready to burn. If they "thud" they are still full of moisture. Also dry wood will start burning within a minute or so of being placed on top of hot coals. Wet wood takes a while longer.

Click to expand...

Great advice thanks.

Sounds like the consensus is my wood is not dry enough. I suspected this may be part of the problem Lets see if I can come up with some known good wood.

See if your local hardware or grocery store has some bundles of dry wood. If so, pick up a couple and try that out.

WES999 · Dec 13, 2008

You could also try burning some pallet wood, just be careful and don't use too much at one time and don't let the stove get too hot. Sometimes a few pieces of nice and dry pallet wood can help get a nice fire going, if the wood is not as dry as it should be.

Heem · Dec 13, 2008

BeGreen said:
See if your local hardware or grocery store has some bundles of dry wood. If so, pick up a couple and try that out.

Great idea, heading out to try that.

WES999 said:
You could also try burning some pallet wood, just be careful and don't use too much at one time and don't let the stove get too hot. Sometimes a few pieces of nice and dry pallet wood can help get a nice fire going, if the wood is not as dry as it should be.

I've got a couple pallets at work, will try this as well.

mainemxz · Dec 15, 2008

I have an Eng 13 too. Takes a little getting used to. I thought my wood was little less than desirable too until i stuffed it full of 2x4 scraps and some paper. Here is what I have learned. My stove takes forever to get going, you need to leave the door cracked 1/2" or so, just enough so the smoke doesnt come out but the fire rips along. Then slowly start closing the door up. Takes me about an hour to get it up to speed, starting from scratch. half hour with a somewhat decent bed of coals. Its a learning curve you will have to figure out. I have another stove in the garage on the other side of the wall (double flue chimney) and have no problems using the same wood to get that one up to speed in no time. I have learned to light the stove and walk away and do something else for 20 minutes, come back and adjust and repeat as needed. Standing there fiddling with it just makes you more frustrated. And relax I can see the stove from most of the house so its not unattended. Good luck, I am sure you will find a happy medium soon.

bluefrier · Dec 15, 2008

Heem said:
Hi all, New here at the forum and new to wood stoves in general. I've just had an Englander 13-NC installed, along with the entire chimney and pipe. I've got double wall with a 90 degree bend going out the wall and then straight up the side of my house with the expensive shiny stuff. This was all installed by professionals, so I can only assume it was done properly, since I don't have much knowledge on the topic.

Anyway, my problem is, It seems like I can't get enough air into the stove. The damper is full open, and the only way I can really get the fire burning is to leave the door open. If i close the door i just get glowing embers that eventually snuff out. Occaisionally i'll get flame with door closed but nothing rip-roaring.

This is an 1820's house, so I'm not concerned about not having enough air available in the house, although to be sure ive tried opening a nearby window to no effect.

Any words of advice would be fantastic

Thanks.

Wet wood or splits that are too big? This stove likes small splits and kindling to start up with ease.

bluefrier · Dec 15, 2008

mainemxz said:
I have learned to light the stove and walk away and do something else for 20 minutes, come back and adjust and repeat as needed. Standing there fiddling with it just makes you more frustrated. And relax I can see the stove from most of the house so its not unattended. Good luck, I am sure you will find a happy medium soon.

Did that on sunday...came back to a stove over 800F (with the door fully closed).

Alan Gage · Dec 16, 2008

Have the same stove and same problem. Burning very dry wood and usually have to leave the door open a crack until the internal flue temp gets up to around 700 degrees. Then shut the door and leave air control open for a few minutes before starting to back it down.

Sometimes the fire takes off great and I have the door shut and starting to back it down in 10 minutes. Other times I'll fight it for 45 minutes until it finally get rolling on its own. Thankfully the 45 minutes is the exception to the rule. Usually it's right around 30 minutes until I feel like I can walk away and leave it alone, that's starting from a cold or near cold stove.

I'm finding it makes a big difference how it's loaded. I've had very little luck raking the coals to the front like I see recommended so that the front of the stack starts to burn and eventually gets to the back. I think the reason is because the stove is so skinny front to back. By the time you get the coal raked to the front there's hardly room left for wood behind them, so the wood ends up getting stacked on top of the coals.

I've had the best luck raking most of the coals to the front but leaving a nice coal bed over the whole floor. Then when stacking the wood try to jam in as much as I can but not pack it too tight so the air can circulate under and up through the stack. Make sure not to block the air inlet "tent" that sticks up in the front center. On a good load I can still have enough coals to start the splits after 9 hours. When I don't load well I need to reload in 4 or 5.

First year burning and I'm still learning it.

Alan

dlpz · Dec 16, 2008

Alan Gage said:
Have the same stove and same problem. Burning very dry wood and usually have to leave the door open a crack until the internal flue temp gets up to around 700 degrees. Then shut the door and leave air control open for a few minutes before starting to back it down.

Sometimes the fire takes off great and I have the door shut and starting to back it down in 10 minutes. Other times I'll fight it for 45 minutes until it finally get rolling on its own. Thankfully the 45 minutes is the exception to the rule. Usually it's right around 30 minutes until I feel like I can walk away and leave it alone, that's starting from a cold or near cold stove.

I'm finding it makes a big difference how it's loaded. I've had very little luck raking the coals to the front like I see recommended so that the front of the stack starts to burn and eventually gets to the back. I think the reason is because the stove is so skinny front to back. By the time you get the coal raked to the front there's hardly room left for wood behind them, so the wood ends up getting stacked on top of the coals.

I've had the best luck raking most of the coals to the front but leaving a nice coal bed over the whole floor. Then when stacking the wood try to jam in as much as I can but not pack it too tight so the air can circulate under and up through the stack. Make sure not to block the air inlet "tent" that sticks up in the front center. On a good load I can still have enough coals to start the splits after 9 hours. When I don't load well I need to reload in 4 or 5.

First year burning and I'm still learning it.

Alan

I have the Summers Heat Version of the NC30 and follow the same routine.

From cold start loaded North/South with the door open a crack for about a half hour, then close the door with air wide open. Around 600 I shut the air down to about a quarter or less open. Once that burns down and goes to about 300, i open the air back up and reload North/South.

For whatever reason it's my second cycle that burns longer and brings the house up to temp. The 30 is bigger that the 13 but it seems they follow the same operation. This is my first year burning and was concerned that when i shut the door down it killed the fire (with kiln dried wood), just need to let the fire get established.

Heem · Jan 2, 2009

Dredging up my old topic...

Thanks all for your help. I've gotten to the point where I understand the stove and can typically get a good burn going in a relative short period of time. With all of your help, I've learned that I need to split most of the wood that I had delivered into smaller pieces, at least until the fire is really roaring. I also have a few bundles of what I call "Cheater Wood" or "Crack" - Kiln dried (expensive!) wood from the local garden center. A couple pieces of that on a cold morning when I have to get out the door to work gets it going quickly so my wife and kids can be warm in the house all day without having to fuss much with it.

Once this stove is going, it's great. I get the room up well near 80 degrees when its 15 outside, and this is in a 200 year old house with lots of cold drafts.

Thanks again.

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Some advice for new Englader 13-NC stove

Heem

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Pagey

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Heem

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BrotherBart

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Pagey

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Heem

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Pagey

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Bigg_Redd

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begreen

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WES999

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Heem

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mainemxz

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bluefrier

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Alan Gage

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dlpz

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Heem

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