Englander 25 impingement baffle plate position

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PunKid8888

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Nov 25, 2008
312
South East NH
So I have come across it in a couple other threads but wanted to get the full understanding of the baffle plate and its position.

From what I have gathered from the other threads is if you have an older englander 25 model then the baffle plate should almost sit flush against the back wall. But I think in the newer model it should be leaning forward and almost touching the front of the stove.

So my question is to the nice guy from Englander who posts on here quiet a bit. What is the actual design (optimal location) of the baffle plate? Touching the front? as a specific angle? or distance to the heat exchanger?

It seams there is a lot of room for adjustment and I would like to get mine in the best possible position to get the most heat output. Mine seams to float just a little bit away from the front wall(never touches it) and has almost an 1inch of movement back wards if I push it. so there is a lot of places it could be.
 
On the 25-PDVC the impingement plate lays flat against the back wall of the firebox. On the 25-PDV it leans to the top of the door opening.
 
I have the PDVC model but it leans foward
 
Lay it flat against the back wall of the firebox. Lift it up as far as it will go pushing against the back wall. Slide it back down and it will lock in place flat against the back wall like it is supposed to be. All PDVC impingement plates lay flat against the back wall when properly installed.

Instructions are also in the manual on on the CD that comes with the stoves these days.
 
thats interesting, because I cannot see anything that would hold it up against the back. the only thing that holds the plate in place is the two tabs on the bottom that it slips behind
 
there should be another tab like thing (hard to explain, doesn't look like tabs on bottom) on the back of the plate that slips into the back wall and 2 tabs on the bottom
 
the baffle plate on a 25-pdvc shold have a "hook" on the back , this is about 3 inches long and is a piece of angle steel welded in the upper back of the plate, if this part of the plate is missing you need to contact my shop and get a replacement it is important that your baffle sits flush in the back and not lean forward.

as for the 25-pdv the models of year 1996 through 2000 should have the same configuration as the pdvc does, newer units have a different baffle configuration where the baffle sits on the back of the burn pot against the back wall and leans forward and touches the front of the stove above the door. this baffle will have a bend in the middle of the plate and a notch about 1.5 by 3 inches in the center of the top of the plate. stoves built prior to 1996 have a 3 baffle set which consist of a left side (long baffle) right side (short baffle) and a triangular top baffle, the two side baffles have hangers that hook to the side header pipes and the top one sets on top of the two side ones.

if you are unsure of which configuration you should have , look on the underside of the hopper lid , or in cases of older units ,on the left side of the pedestal near the back of the stove for the data tag which will have the manufacture date stamped into it, if you are still unsure, let me know here or in a PM and i will let you know.
 
thanks Mike, couldn't put it into words as well as you did.
 
Mine leans foward about 1/8 to 1.4 inch and everyone I check out at lowes or home depot is the same or even has more space?
Is it supposed to sit super flush with no space what so ever?
 
pelletizer said:
Mine leans foward about 1/8 to 1.4 inch and everyone I check out at lowes or home depot is the same or even has more space?
Is it supposed to sit super flush with no space what so ever?
haha, I did the same thing. I think it is supposed to a tiny bit of play in it.
 
hmm, on my new pdvc there is a welded tab on the front (not back). I was under the impression that it was a little handle to assist in lifting it out. should k try and turn the plate around then ?
 
there is a small tab welded on the front to be used as a handle for removal when cleaning. Mike pretty much nailed the description of the 1/2"x1/2"x3" length of angle iron welded to the back that "hooks" onto the bottom of the upper opening on the back wall of the fire chamber. I beleive the areas of the opening not covered by the plate are where the hot flue gases exit the burn chamber and get sucked out of the vent pipe. again, going on what I assume, the baffle plate is to cover the other openings so that the heat exchangers can be accessible for cleaning. otherwise, those other openings (covered by the plate) should be closed off and covered as best they can, to prevent excessive heat loss out the flue pipe. I am sure Mike will correct me if I am wrong, but I would hope he takes a few days off from work and this forum for Christmas!
 
Orange Crush CJ-7 said:
there is a small tab welded on the front to be used as a handle for removal when cleaning. Mike pretty much nailed the description of the 1/2"x1/2"x3" length of angle iron welded to the back that "hooks" onto the bottom of the upper opening on the back wall of the fire chamber. I beleive the areas of the opening not covered by the plate are where the hot flue gases exit the burn chamber and get sucked out of the vent pipe. again, going on what I assume, the baffle plate is to cover the other openings so that the heat exchangers can be accessible for cleaning. otherwise, those other openings (covered by the plate) should be closed off and covered as best they can, to prevent excessive heat loss out the flue pipe. I am sure Mike will correct me if I am wrong, but I would hope he takes a few days off from work and this forum for Christmas!


yep , you got it CJ, the pdvc baffle covers the lower opening which is the clean out for the heat exchangers, the upper "alcove" that extends all the way across is not covered completely but doesnt need to be, the plate hangs and fits "fairly" tight but not sealed tight, leaving a little "wiggle room" to make it easy to remove. but it should be straight up and hanging against the back wall and centered over the burn pot

FWIW i have taken some time off from the shop im off til monday but i'll still pop in here from time to time for some "theraputic"stove work, i enjoy spending time in here. i dont do this for "work" i do it because its fun for me. as for tomorrow though , you guys will likely be on your own lest the wife hit me over the head with a "lump of coal" or whatever she got me ;-)


wishing all my friends here the best of holidays, remember "the hearth is the warm heart of a home"
 
Happy Holidays, Mike!
 
Thanks all.

Apperently I have never noticed that angle iron in the back, and I have had it off a few times for a full clean.

I now have the plate flush to the back and the stove seams to be throwing a lot more heat. But now I have a new problem

I'm not burning my pellets completly, I usually burn the stove from 4pm to 5am, and I clean the wear plate right before lighting the stove the following afternoon. Normally I have a rather full but very fine ash on the wear plate, so fine that the air flowing through the holes can keep the ash from blocking them. looks kinda neat. Now I seam to have a heavier ash and almost some round bits.

I am going to play with low feed and low air number a bit tonight to see if I can prevent it. Any ideas

Stove is a 6 5 1, (the factory settings) and I normally burn a 3,3 durning the evening and 2,2 or a 1,1 at night.

I might also try putting it on a hotter burn like 5,5 when I first wake up in the morning while I take my shower to see if that helps. I am hoping that maybe the high humidity the last couple days had something to do with it.
 
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