Snowblower ran for 1 hr with no oil - now what do I do?

My MTD Blower with a 10.5 hp Tecumseh was run for about 60 mins before it quit. (Hint - never store your blower at SOMEONE ELSE's house if, when you changed the oil last year, you didn't have the 0 W 30 synthetic oil that you've used since new 8 years ago to go back in, so you decided "I'll just put it in it before I start it next year, I'll remeber, I always do"), because someone else will try to use it first. )

I brought the poor girl home, took the plug out and oiled the cylinder, added oil to the case, and was able to turn it over with the crank bolt, then the electric start, and then the pull cord. I was able to start it, then drained and filled the oil twice, and ran it until warm before I drained and filled it the third time. When I pull it over with the cord (plug out), she makes a kerclunk klunk pause kerclunk klunk sound (say it out loud for effect )

It is a Snow King, ( http://www.smallenginesurplus.com/tecumseh-hmsk105159908-lh358sa159908-snow-king-p-3495.html) with the added 1:2 camshaft pully/PTO that drives the drive wheels, so there aren't a lot of them around here. I am in Canada, so my options look like this:

Run it as is - I suspect that eventually, something is going to break, and then I'll be in for a new engine, but who knows how long that will take.

By new engine - site linked above will run me 650 Canadian plus takes to my door - new blower is 1100

Buy short block - Can get one delivered for 550 taxes in.

Replace the parts that could be warn - haven't had a small engine apart in 15 years, but have the skills to do it. - worst case on parts is about 250-300, depending on how far I go.

For those out there who fix what guys like me break, what is your opinion on the best option?

Gooserider said:

I would tend to say the same, although I'd point out that if you decide an engine replacement is in order, you don't have to put the same engine on that came off it... My understanding is that as long as you stay with the same general size engine, they are pretty much bolt in, interchangeable replacements - just get the same shaft orientation, diameter, and rotation.

I haven't done the price shopping myself, and I don't know how the CDN prices would compare, but I've heard it is possible to pick up one of the Chinese Honda / Subaru-Robin clones engines for considerably less than a new Tecumseh or B&S;engine, and have something that will work at least as well... That might be your best bet for a least cost / effort fix.

(BTW, hindsight is always 20/20, but I know that I was taught long ago that if I was leaving an engine w/o oil for longer than it took to put some in, then I should pull the plug wire, or put a hunk of tape over the ignition key slot w/ a tag on it saying "NEEDS OIL!" This has saved me from similar problems a few times...

Gooserider

Click to expand...

I remember thinking about the tag idea, but I don't remember doing it....

The one issue I have with the clones is the extra camshaft PTO (2 seperate pulleys) - MTD special ordered these engines from Tecumseh, so not a lot of them around from what I can find, and they run twice the price of a similar Tecumseh w/o the PTO - Any websites that you know that deal in the chinese engines? My googling hasn't found 'em yet.

PTO shaft (actually a pulley off the camshaft end runs 2:1 to the crank) runs the drive gear, while the crank runs the auger. I guess they wanted to save on gearing in the guts below, so they used the cam to get the ratio they wanted.



I may actually just buy a used unit of another brand that doesn't use the odd camshaft pulley - engines for them are 1/2 the price.

Thanks for the link Gooserider, I'll check it out.