Fireplace inserts?

Just had an Hampton HI300 installed and having the first fire tonight. Even with a small moderate fire (per break in instructions), I managed to get the stove temp to a temperature where the auto blower tunrs on. There's a huge difference with the blower going. My research shows you need a good size insert for an 8 hour burn. I got the largest I could fit for this very reason. Good luck.

I have a travis 44 elite and it will heat my 4200 sqft home. But my house is all 2x6 Cellulose insulated walls 1/4 foam board around the outside before brick/hardie board. Low-e /Argon windows so it does not take much to heat this house anyway.
This is my first year with this insert and house and I am am happy. My wood is not well seasoned so the most I can get is about 5 hours before the blowers turns off. There are a few inserts that are out there that will heat better but in my opinion look 2 much like a stove.
I am new here so from lurching for a while I can tell you the other's will make sure you get pointed in the right direction

if you are looking for something to go inside of the Marco fireplace the fpx unit will probably not fit. takes a pretty good size fireplace. Check out the avalong ranier or lopi revere, made by the same company as FPX. If you are looking at removing the Marco and replacing it the 36 Elite should be fine. It is a catalytic unit, if you want to go non-cat the Kozy Heat Z-42 is a great unit.

I load my lopi revere at 10pm and the blower stays on all night until I reload at 7am. Since your in TX you'll have milder winters like me. The revere has a pretty good sized firebox and is rated for zero clearance fireplaces. Not sure the exact models they are rated for though. Go ahead and buy the blower while your at it. It's expensive, but definitely makes a difference. I love having the blower on still blowing 250-300* air out of it when I wake up. I'm hooked on loading straight in (N/S) instead of having to load sideways like a lot of smaller stoves have to do. The Revere is 2.2 cuft firebox which holds a lot of wood. I've got to make 2 wood pile trips when I'm stuffing it. I can't imagine having a bigger 3.0 or 4. I'd need a bigger wood stack for sure! The revere looks like a stove though, not sure if that's a draw back or not.

aces67

I don't know the type fireplace you have, but it sounds like a prefab... like the Heatalators (spelling?).

Do you have a good tight set of glass doors, ones with ceramic glass so you can operate it with the doors closed?

If no you might want to price out a good set of doors, here I assume you fireplace has vents connected to a blower to force heat from the fireplace into the room. The glass doors will cut way back on the house air going up the chimney, and you'll feel the greater heat gain in the rooms. Well fitted doors should also allow you to cut back on the air, thus making the fire burn slower and longer. But all night? I doubt it.

We went with a Lopi Freedom Bay insert in our fire place. Our local dealers where I live had the BUCK, and LOPI brand inserts. My brother got the Buck 80 insert installed in his fire place & I got the Lopi. Both inserts are doing fine. My brother is very happy with his purchase and I am as well with our Lopi. There are a lot of inserts out there and most are very fine, and I'm sure you will get many replies about brand X is the best.

I think you will be better off asking which brands to stay away from, than which one is the best, then take it from there.

Anyway... here's a pic of our Lopi.

atvdave, That's a nice looking Bay. What ship were you on? I did 3 years on the Independence (cv-62) out of Yokosuka, Japan.

Aces67, Below is a screen capture of the Lopi Revere manual. It says it's approved for use in a Marco. There are lots of people who disagree with doing anything to a zero clearance fireplace. They're kinda the red headed step-child here. There aren't many stoves that are approved for ZC fireplaces so you'll be limited. My advice is to not just trust one stove shop because sometimes you'll get people who don't know what they are talking about come out and try to rig you an install and charge you double. You're going to have to do some homework but it'll be worth it because then you'll have peace of mind after it's all done. If you're anywhere near handy then I'd suggest you do it yourself if it's allowed by your insurance and city.

I understand some of the newer factory/pre-fab fireplaces have a UL specification that meet the requirements of some Insert brands.

This is true of the Quadrafire brand which I have. Here's a picture of my new quadrafire before it had its first fire.

My Lopi Freedom does not burn throughout the night. If I load it around 11, I will have a bed of coals
at 6. Still throwing some heat, but the the temperature is dropping by then. I bypassed the thermal switch
many years ago, but I recall the switch dropping out around 5-6 am. The manual gives a "burn time" spec
that means there will be enough coals to restart a fire. Not sure if all the manufacturers do it the same.

drdoct said:

atvdave, That's a nice looking Bay. What ship were you on? I did 3 years on the Independence (cv-62) out of Yokosuka, Japan.

Click to expand...

I was on the USS Wm V. Pratt (DDG-44) mothballed back in 92. I was a GMM, worked in the missile house in the GMLS Mk-10. We where stationed in Charleston, SC. I was in from 88 to 92. I just went to Japan this year for my job. It was at the Navel ship yards in Sasebo, Japan. I now travel all over the US & some over sea's working on Electric motors & generators. In fact I'm in a hotel right now in Pittsburgh, going to install a 1500hp motor tomorrow at a steal mill. I think we where part of the same battle group in the Red Sea during Dessert Storm?

Gomez... sorry to hear about your bay not heating through the night. Mine does just fine. Still blowing out hot air in the morning. No fire but very hot coals. I load it up around 9pm and reload before work at around 5am.

atvdave said:

drdoct said:

atvdave, That's a nice looking Bay. What ship were you on? I did 3 years on the Independence (cv-62) out of Yokosuka, Japan.

Click to expand...

I was on the USS Wm V. Pratt (DDG-44) mothballed back in 92. I was a GMM, worked in the missile house in the GMLS Mk-10. We where stationed in Charleston, SC. I was in from 88 to 92. I just went to Japan this year for my job. It was at the Navel ship yards in Sasebo, Japan. I now travel all over the US & some over sea's working on Electric motors & generators. In fact I'm in a hotel right now in Pittsburgh, going to install a 1500hp motor tomorrow at a steal mill. I think we where part of the same battle group in the Red Sea during Dessert Storm?

Gomez... sorry to hear about your bay not heating through the night. Mine does just fine. Still blowing out hot air in the morning. No fire but very hot coals. I load it up around 9pm and reload before work at around 5am.

Click to expand...

10 year USN vet here,
2+yrs at NAS Whidbey Island / VAQ-139/USS Connie CV64
6 yrs in Japan, combo of AIMD Atsugi, / VAQ-136/USS Midway
did 2 weeks active reserve time a year or so after I got out, on USS Independence while tied to the pier in Yoko, man that was some tough duty LOL!

sorry to hear about your bay not heating through the night. Mine does just fine. Still blowing out hot air in the morning. No fire but very hot coals. I load it up around 9pm and reload before work at around 5am.

I have a new Lopi Freedom Bay. Hogged full at 11:00 pm, I'll wake to find only hot coals buring seasoned Red Oak. With the lower air lever pulled all the way out (closed) and the damper rod on top all the way in (closed) the blower is still running at 6:00 a.m., but not much heat. I have two magnetic round disc. One is on the left face, just above the door, and the other sticks to the metal trim and hangs down into the hot air opening on the right. While burning between 400-500 degrees as measured on the left with a hot flaming fire, the hot air only measures a max of 250. Any way to get more heat? Also, with so much air taken away from a night fire, the glass is coated black by morning. How do you get a long burn with enough air to not allow the glass to seal over?

The other day, temps were in the 50's-60's and no fire since before Christmas, the 15-20mph wind picked up with 30mph gusts. With the lower air closed and the upper damper pushed in and closed, I hear wind noises as air is pulled into the lower air control. Propane furnace will kick on at 66 degrees to keep the chill down, but I feel that heat is being sucked out with the insert allowing air inside it.... Any way to completely close this insert?

Thank you for your experience,
Bill

billjustbill said:

I have a new Lopi Freedom Bay. Hogged full at 11:00 pm, I'll wake to find only hot coals buring seasoned Red Oak. With the lower air lever pulled all the way out (closed) and the damper rod on top all the way in (closed) the blower is still running at 6:00 a.m., but not much heat. I have two magnetic round disc. One is on the left face, just above the door, and the other sticks to the metal trim and hangs down into the hot air opening on the right. While burning between 400-500 degrees as measured on the left with a hot flaming fire, the hot air only measures a max of 250. Any way to get more heat? Also, with so much air taken away from a night fire, the glass is coated black by morning. How do you get a long burn with enough air to not allow the glass to seal over?

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I never shut the intake air all the way off. For a night burn I pull it all the way back and then push it in about 1/2" to 1".

I have never measured my air temp coming out of the blowers but I think 250 is pretty good. Maybe others can comment on this? I run my blowers around 1/2 speed to help keep the fire box heated longer. I use a small fan pointed up to help move the heat around the house, (I have vaulted ceilings in my insert room).

My glass is hardly ever coated with black soot. I will have some light brown haze on the glass after a night burn but as soon as I get a good hot fire going again the haze burns right off.

Also one other thing that affects the burn time on a insert/stove is the chimney draft. I have a short chimney/liner. It's around 13' from the top of the insert. If you have a strong draft up the chimney than it may be burning the wood up a lot faster, and also taking the heat with it also.

billjustbill said:

The other day, temps were in the 50's-60's and no fire since before Christmas, the 15-20mph wind picked up with 30mph gusts. With the lower air closed and the upper damper pushed in and closed, I hear wind noises as air is pulled into the lower air control. Propane furnace will kick on at 66 degrees to keep the chill down, but I feel that heat is being sucked out with the insert allowing air inside it.... Any way to completely close this insert?

Thank you for your experience,
Bill

Click to expand...

I don't think there is any way to totally close the insert off to room air. With the new EPA stoves & inserts there is always some air that will be sucked in, it's how they get it to burn clean from what I under stand. Also your upper damper does nothing to stop the air. It only redirects the air for the secondary burn to kick in.

Most Country Stove inserts will go into ZC's. It matters on the model of ZC you have. I'm not sure about your model. I love my Country. Nice big firebox, and way easy to run. Drafts really well for me even though I have a short chimney, about 12 ft.

A Summit Insert will burn all night, even if you drink too much and have to sleep a few extra hours to get your head to stop pounding.

Bad night, Karl ? Or horrific morning?

:smirk:

"I never shut the intake air all the way off. For a night burn I pull it all the way back and then push it in about 1/2” to 1”.

I have never measured my air temp coming out of the blowers but I think 250 is pretty good. Maybe others can comment on this? I run my blowers around 1/2 speed to help keep the fire box heated longer. I use a small fan pointed up to help move the heat around the house, (I have vaulted ceilings in my insert room).

My glass is hardly ever coated with black soot. I will have some light brown haze on the glass after a night burn but as soon as I get a good hot fire going again the haze burns right off.

Also one other thing that affects the burn time on a insert/stove is the chimney draft. I have a short chimney/liner. It’s around 13’ from the top of the insert. If you have a strong draft up the chimney than it may be burning the wood up a lot faster, and also taking the heat with it also. "

Thank you for your insight and experience. Temps are dropping tonight, so I'll give your way a try. Oven cleaner has cleaned the glass very well after setting on the cool inside glass for 30 minutes... Maybe with the wider open air will keep the glass much cleaner... Thanks again, Bill

Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:

Bad night, Karl ? Or horrific morning?

:smirk:

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It was a great night, and it would only have been a horrific morning if I had gotten up and had to start a fire from scratch and blow on it to get it going.

Got down in to the teens. I sleep about 11 hours and woke up to a 67 degree house and coals in the stove. That's pretty good since the stove was running on poplar and I was running on gin.

There's a marketing slogan for you. "Pacific Energy Summit. The stove for drunken bachelors who can't get up in the morning."

Another vote for the Pacific Energy Summit. My house is 34 x 26, 2 story and not all that well insulated. After 6 hours the house is still above 60 with outside temps down to 0. Not too bad considering...

I'm looking to add a Greenwood Aspen 175 OWB so that we can get off the oil and have all night comfort via our existing baseboards.

Someone had a good point above, which inserts (or makers, rather) ARE best to stay away from? I stopped by the only place that sells them within an hour's drive today. All they had were several regency models and one light-duty looking dutchwest. Are regency inserts decent?
The prices at that place are out of hand. All but the dutchwest one were priced out and then had labor and whatever added and totaled up to the tune of $4000. Yikers. Going to have to go out of town I guess and maybe find a dealer who carries Lopi and some of the other good brands you mention here.