DIRE WARNING--Your New Electric Generator Is Not Designed or Intended for Continious Opperation

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I borrowed my friends little Honda 1750 watt, its very small and compact but he did say it was designed for continious use. I got it saturday night (power went out thursday 11pm), house was at 40F and I was able to run the pellet stove, fridge and a couple lights. I got the house up to 60F by morning, ran it all sunday and just shut down before leaving for work today. I still have no power but I wanted to give the little guy a break. I think I will not have power till mid week. The good (at least the way I see it) is I got about a half to full cord of wood part of which fell on my house, but no damage. The Generator runs on my deck with, and the exhuast is aimed away from the house.

So you think the generator will be ok in the rain? I think I just might put a piece of plywood over it just to keep the brunt of the rain off of it
 
PunKid8888 said:
So you think the generator will be ok in the rain? I think I just might put a piece of plywood over it just to keep the brunt of the rain off of it

Glad to hear the house wasn't damaged from the tree, and that you had the generator to help w/ the heat. As for covering it, I would do it if possible. There was a thread I started a few days ago about using pallets, and my neighbor used a few to make a simple "house" for his genny.

Just make sure you give it some space so exhaust doesn't catch anything on fire, and has air to breathe/cool it.
 
Shortstuff said:
Bottom line is that I can use any of the newer API rating oils.

Steve

I see several flaws in that article, especailly the comments about diesel rated oils in gas engines. No, not any newer API rated oil is good for your engine, depending on what your engine is.

One thing that has been kept quiet is the removal of an important anti-wear ingredient in most USA oils in 2007. That indegredient is very important for engines that use flat-tapped camshafts. Many small engines still do. Most automotive engines since the late 80s, do not.

At first, a good work-around was to use a good diesel-rated oil in your small gas engine. But now - the additive has also been removed from many diesel oils, even the old standard Shell Rotella T.

In a way, this reminds me of what happened when leaded gas was phased out (which did indeed damage some engines), and more recenty, the problems with ultra low sulfur diesel fuel.

Here's one write-up about what has happened to many oils.

Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates (ZDDP)

Widely used as an anti-wear agent in motor oils to protect heavily loaded parts, particularly the
valve train mechanisms (such as the camshaft and cam followers) from excessive wear. It is also
used as an anti-wear agent in hydraulic fluids and certain other products. ZDDP is also an
effective oxidation inhibitor. Oils containing ZDDP should not be used in engines that employ
silver alloy bearings. All car manufacturers before 2007 recommend the use of dialkyl ZDDP in
motor
oils for passenger car service.

ZDDP was the most commonly used additive in engine oil for sixty years and is a
multi-functional additive which provides the wear protection in almost all engine oil formulations.
In very simple terms, ZDDP, when heated in the high temperatures of the engine, decomposes
to form an extremely thin layer of phosphorous glass over the engine surfaces (sometimes
referred to as "glassivation"). This new layer of glass is perpetually worn away and replenished,
protecting the metal surfaces from wearing away.

The problem for 2007 is that while ZDDP works to protect engines very nicely, it has other
performance features that have become "possibly" detrimental in modern automotive engines to
certain parts of the emissions and exhaust systems.

Oil companies have been cutting back on the use of Zn and P as anti-wear additives, and
turning to alternative zinc-free (ZF) additives and ash-less dispersants since Zn, P, and sulfated
ash have been found to be bad for catalytic converters (new low SAPS oils).
This reduction is a mandate issued by API, American Petroleum Institute, who is in charge of
developing standing standards for motor oils. The latest API SM standard for car oils calls for a
zinc and phosphorus content less than 0.08% to reduce sulfur, carbon monoxide, and
hydrocarbon emissions. As a result of this mandate, some motor oils now have as little as
0.05% zinc and phosphorus - including Shell Rotella T "Triple Protection" blend. Prior to the
new CJ-4 API standard for diesel oils, we found most
of the CI-4 15w40 and 5w40 oils to have excellent levels of Zn and P.
These new API guidelines do not need apply to “racing,” “severe duty,” or any motor oils that
do not carry an API “starburst” seal or clearly state for off-road-use only. Motor oils meeting
“Energy Conserving I or II” standards should be avoided as well as those with an API SM
classification, with it's lower Zn and P levels, which applies only to 0w20, 0w30, 5w20, 5w30,
and 10w30 "ILSAC" GF-4 grades. Although having been more sensitive to emissions and the
environment than American standards, we find the European ACEA A3 and B3/B4
classifications, which place a cap on P levels at 0.10-0.12%, to be better in taking into
consideration wear and engine longevity while limiting emissions and protecting emissions
control devices.
Although difficult to find, some manufacturers are continuing to produce their CI-4 oils, some of
which can be found at your local auto parts stores. Check the label. If it says CI-4 or CI-4+
alone with no mention of a CJ-4, it's probably good.
 
macman said:
schmeg said:
........ A lot of what Earnest is refering to can be avoided with frequent and regular oil changes.

Absolutely right! Hey, if you run the generator a lot, change the oil a lot! If you can afford the generator, you can afford to buy a quart or two of oil once in a while.

And speaking about oil, anyone that is not running full synthetic oil in their generator (or any engine IMO), is behind the times. Synthetic is superior to regular mineral oil in many ways.

As for generators, especially ones used in cold climates, a low winter rating oil (0w, 5w) makes the engines start easier as it doesn't thicken when it gets cold like mineral oil, and is also superior for high stress, long endurance running....it does not break down like mineral oil. I use Mobil 1 in my 12kw Generac (recommended by the manufacturer after break-in), my car, my garden tractor, and snow blower, but ANY name brand will be fine (Amsoil, Quaker state, Pennzoil, etc).

We have been using synthetic in our race cars for years (engine, rear end, bearing grease too)....have NEVER had an oil-related failure...period.

Get with the times people.

My Brigs and Strat manual say change the oil every 50 hours no mater what kind so there is a safty factor built in between oil changes. By the way I am a fan of Amsoil, and just bought oil for continuous use equipment like generators. AMSOIL 10W-30/SAE 30 Synthetic Small Engine Oil
 
Hoverfly said:
My Brigs and Strat manual say change the oil every 50 hours no mater what kind so there is a safty factor built in between oil changes. By the way I am a fan of Amsoil, and just bought oil for continuous use equipment like generators. AMSOIL 10W-30/SAE 30 Synthetic Small Engine Oil

I have been involved in auto racing for 35+ years, and IMO, Amsoil is THE best synthetic there is....period. Hard to find sometimes, and expensive, but the BEST!
 
I have a EQ1000 honda and before we got electric up here in the sticks i used this generator non-stop 7 days a week. I built a small shealter for it (vented) then I hooked it up to a 10 gallon gas container with a hose feed from the bottom of the big tank to the carb fuel line and never have had any issues with it. I bought it in 1990 and to this day it starts with one pull and is quiet as a mouse. Runs 8 hours on 1 gallon of gas. It will run the pellet stove and the fridge along with a few lights. If your going to get a genny gat a HONDA there is nothing better.
 
woodsman23 said:
I have a EQ1000 honda and before we got electric up here in the sticks i used this generator non-stop 7 days a week.

No argument with the quality of Honda engines (I still have my 305 Super Hawk bike from the 60s). But, there are other small engines made for hard full time use in the same price bracket that test a little better than Honda in long-term durability - namely Subaru. Usually sold as "Robin". Several telecom companies use the 8 horse engines for out-in-the-field use where they get run full-time.

One neat thing about some of the Hondas is the DC line of generators they sell. Their AC generators do not make perfect power and will not run certain types of battery chargers. But, their Inverter series will - since they use DC generators running through full-wave inverters. They also do not depend on precise RPM to make 60 Hertz, so they can load-match and run at near idle speed when low loads are called for.
 
My Homelite 3500 watt has a Subaru Robin engine, it says 20 hrs first oil change, 100 hrs after that, nothing about not using continuously, spark plug is also 100 hrs. I got it a Home Despot for $460 it has wheels and a folding handle included. I don't worry about covering it as the 4 gal fuel tank is flat and covers the whole top of the generator. I use a 50' heavy duty extension cord to get the power into the house. (which was nice when I moved it behind the house after hearing all the reports of generator thefts) I ran for 5 days straight and only shut it down twice a day to fuel and oil it, it never needed oil, and as long as the temp is under 104* outside (which I don't know when Maine has ever hit that) I don't have to worry about cooling. My generator varies the speed based on load, so a tank that will last 8 hrs at half load will do double that on what I need which my total load was 2700 watts and three of those loads cycle on and off. OPB, fridge, deep freeze, actualy one of my circulators cycles on the thermostat.
 
macman said:
schmeg said:
........ A lot of what Earnest is refering to can be avoided with frequent and regular oil changes.

Absolutely right! Hey, if you run the generator a lot, change the oil a lot! If you can afford the generator, you can afford to buy a quart or two of oil once in a while.

And speaking about oil, anyone that is not running full synthetic oil in their generator (or any engine IMO), is behind the times. Synthetic is superior to regular mineral oil in many ways.

As for generators, especially ones used in cold climates, a low winter rating oil (0w, 5w) makes the engines start easier as it doesn't thicken when it gets cold like mineral oil, and is also superior for high stress, long endurance running....it does not break down like mineral oil. I use Mobil 1 in my 12kw Generac (recommended by the manufacturer after break-in), my car, my garden tractor, and snow blower, but ANY name brand will be fine (Amsoil, Quaker state, Pennzoil, etc).

We have been using synthetic in our race cars for years (engine, rear end, bearing grease too)....have NEVER had an oil-related failure...period.

Get with the times people.

not that I am a greenie or anything but I run amsoil in all three cars, it has a 35,000 mile oil drain interval and they just increased the oil filter change to one year also. it used to be 6 months or 25,000 miles. I like not having to crawl under the car every three months or so and I drive 200-400 miles a week to work. I have been doing amsoil for 6 years now and don't have any problems on my 4 cyl ranger which now has 250,000 miles on it, the last 150,000 on amsoil. I noticed a 1-2 Mpg increase after I switched each car over ( '02 focus, '06 grand caravan) and I don't create as much waste oil. I will be putting amsoil in my generator and lawn mower as soon as I make my next amsoil buy.
 
kofkorn said:
Here's a picture of the house after the fire on Friday.

http://www.journaltribune.com/DailyPhoto/DSC_0500.jpg

He had the generator in a small doghouse right beside the power drop. PLEASE BE CAREFUL!
I had a neighbor get a new house this way to, only his was automatic start and it burst into flames on start up. It was only 3 feet from the back of the house.
 
I have a no-name BJs (club warehouse) 5800 watt generator with a 10hp B&S;engine with splash oiling.

Instructions are to change the oil after the first 5 hours and then every 50 hours after that.

I bought it last Spring when my underground electric lines failed. The generator sure came in handy this past ice storm.

Last spring, I ran it 3 days straight, and then another 5 days straight during this past ice storm. I haven't noticed any smoking, or loss of oil.

My pellet stove can run on batteries but that only lasts about 8 hours/battery. The generator kept my pellet stove running, as well as my refrigerator, my lights, etc.
 
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