Hot Blast 1300 MORE PICS ADDED

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Fuel

New Member
Jan 4, 2009
83
Nebraska
Hi everyone, I am new to this site and had a couple of questions. I did a search and have sat here for a while reading, but just haven't found exactly what I am looking for. I have found a Hot Blast 1300 wood furnace for sale for $300 and have agreed to buy it to put in my home. They say that the unit is in very good condition, leaks no smoke, and is right around 10 years old. I have an approximately 1200sq ft home that is a story and a half and is moderately insulated and I live in Northeastern Nebraska. I guess what I am trying to aks is if this is a good wood furnace and if they are still good for this long and maybe even another 10 years. Also, will this furnace work well for my house?

P.S. I burn almost all seasoned red elm, ash, and oak.

Thany you
Josh
 
Moved to the boiler room to see if any older Hot Blast owners can help.
 
It should do just fine. Mine was in service for 20 years, before I rebuilt the interior of the unit. It will last another 10+ years if not overfired. How the baffle inside look? Any paint burnt off the sides?
 
I bought the unit site unseen just from pictures on Craigslist since the price seemed so good. This is a good price correct? The pictures show abosulutely no discoloration on the unit at all.
 
The only thing that i am worried about with this unit is that it only has one blower, any suggestions or comments about this.
 
With only 1200 square feet. A single blower should be fine.
 
Fuel said:
The only thing that i am worried about with this unit is that it only has one blower, any suggestions or comments about this.
if it isnt you can add some more cfm easy enough
 
how do u do that, I read some people putting in relays to kick on the main furnace blower but I don't know how to do that kind of thing
 
Fuel said:
how do u do that, I read some people putting in relays to kick on the main furnace blower but I don't know how to do that kind of thing
you would want to get it up and running frist to see where your output is you may not have to do anything!(moddifing that is)
 
ic, one thing is that my furnace plenums now are almost tight against my floor joists and i will be dumping into the main plenum right after the AC coil. There will be about a 12 foot run before i get into the plenum, is there going to be any clearance issues here
 
Fuel said:
ic, one thing is that my furnace plenums now are almost tight against my floor joists and i will be dumping into the main plenum right after the AC coil. There will be about a 12 foot run before i get into the plenum, is there going to be any clearance issues here
in the 12 ft run you dont want it touching anything. is the plenum metal?
 
If you keep your duct clearances from your woodfurnace at 6" for the first 10 feet you will be fine on the plenum. I would make sure there is at least a 1" gap on the plenum and you should be fine.
 
okay, there is so thank you

so if i share the return air with the exsisting furnace could i just shut it off when i am using the wood furnace and then not use the gas furnace

adding pictures of the existing gas ductwork as we speak(how do i post pics, i have them on photobucket)
 
this is where i was going to run the two 8" ducts from the wood furnace into the plenum(relocate the two 6" takeoffs that are there now and go in the same place)
Picture021.jpg
 
these pics show where the return air goes into the gas furnace

my first thought was to cut a 12 flex in the opposite side of the return air trunk as the current furance and run it over to the wood furnace and then when i use the wood furnace shut off the gas furnace and take out the filter and replace it with a block off plate to prevent backfeeding
Picture026.jpg

Picture025.jpg
 
Now I'll jump into your thread :)

Does that furnace come with only 1 blower? If so, you might not count on it to be able to move air through your duct system well. You would definately want to install a damper in the plenum. I see what you're saying about taking out the filter and covering with a plate but that seems like it will be a pain to put in place or remove everytime you want to use your gas furnace.

If it were me I'd connect your return somewhere away from the inlet of the gas furnace and also plan to run your main furnace blower in conjunction with your wood furnace blower - or use a plenum fan control on main furnace plenum, to avoid the back feeding issues and get much better air circulation through your home. I think the power rating on your single blower is like 1/20 hp or something like that - I wouldn't count on that push much air in your home.

Have you looked at the installation manual - you can get it at the US Stove website?
 
i don't really have anywhere else to install the return air unless i just let the basement door open and let it draw by itself, the furnace that i am installing only comes with one 550cfm blower but my house is only like 1200 sq ft

how do u tie the blower on the main furnace in with the blower on the wood furnace and could i just put in two 8inch backdraft dampers on the ducts coming off the wood furnace(where can i get these also)
 
now i understand, if i use the existing ductwork the closest path of least resistance is for the air to straight lope backfeed throught the gas furnace and not even go through the trunk lines, the problem is in the first pic that i posted u can see where the plenum juts out right under where the lower takeoff comes from- that is where the AC coil top is so where do i put the damper
 
It's not a Hot Blast, but I'll throw my two cents in. Here's how I hooked up my add on furnace.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v697/ikessky/100_7605.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v697/ikessky/100_7606.jpg

My unit only has a 500 or 550cfm blower on it and it does just fine getting the house up to temp and keeping it there. I set the thermostat for the gas furnace at 60 so it will kick on if I am away from the house for an extended period of time and the house won't be too cold when I get back.
 
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