need more heat

mainstation said:

Hello, newbie question here. I have a Magnum Countryside Insert (56,000 Btu), am burning exclusively corn , have the fuel stirrer auger option BUT, I need more heat outta this stove. At any outside temp, 0 C to -24 C , I cannot get the thermostat to climb any higher than 68 F - 70F. The thermostat is only 9' away from the Countryside.
I am thinking of just going back to a mid sized Regency wood insert, but dread the wood mess. I really like the ease of use with the Countryside.
The dealer indicated changing the fuel stirrer , this might generate more heat... Any thoughts, advice?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Other than a very good stove and vent cleaning the heat is in the fuel.

for you to get 56,000 BTU from corn (we will say good corn 7,000 BTU per pound) you need to burn more than 8 pounds per hour. Is that what you are burning?

Eric

mainstation said:

No, I doubt I am burning 8 pounds an hour. With the Countryside, the fuel setting is on 3 (out of 5). According to the website, 3 is recommended, 4 for a short period of time when burning Corn.

Maybe I just expected too much out of this stove.

Click to expand...

Use a thermo and check your heat output at the exchangers. Check a couple different spots and do not touch the metal as you take temps.

What size of area including ceiling height are you attempting to heat? Is it well insulated?

Eric

mainstation said:

Countryside corn insert located on main floor of 70 yr. stone house, sq footage approx 640'. 8' ceilings, insulation could be better.

I am at this point strongly considering moving the Countryside to the back room (south end of the house) and re-installing a Wood burning insert.
I'll check the temps, Thank You for your advice Eric.

Click to expand...

the key part of your statement "insulation could be better"

most manufacturers figure square footage of coverage as 'best case" open floor plan , well insulated, and factored from 32F or in canada i guess 0C , the 56K btu figure is based on input value at 7K BTU 8 lbs is needed to generate that many btu's , then figure the loss rate based on transfer efficiency figure 78% which is the normal recognised rate. the rest of that heat leaves through the exhaust , which can get as high as 500F plus ambient (or intake air temp)

unless you still have the woodstove which would make for an inexpensive , though a bit of work, transition, i'd consider this option as well;take the money you would spend on the woodstove if you have to buy another one, and spend it on insulating the house better, you wouldnt need as much money to make up the BTU's in the better heat loss ratio. and at that point the countryside (which is a great stove by the way) would have a much better effect on heating the house.

sometimes more heat isnt the easiest or least expensive way to go.

trust me this is not criticism, i have went through a similar situation , went from wood to pellet , my house when i bought it was a sieve, and i needed a woodstove with twice the rated square footage to heat it , since ive renovated the house extensively and added insulation making the house hold heat better i run a stove which is rated for a little more than the size of my house , but heat it easily with the lower heat ranges of the stove. dollar for dollar , insulation is the best investment you can make in home comfort (year round , it helps immensely with air conditioning efficiency in the summer as well.)

just thought i'd toss another option out there to think about.you'd be amazed at how many folks dont think about this angle.

Even better than insulation if the house has any air leaks is to seal those puppies up.

You'd be surprised at exactly how much heat is lost to air infiltration, combine that with little to no insulation and you are basicly heating the lot your house is on.

mainstation said:

... The problem is these old houses were built way before "HouseWrap/Typar" was invented and air leakage is a HUGE part of the problem. ...

Click to expand...

Around doors,windows, any building penetration (vents, electrical service, water faucets, chimney races) need to be sealed, it can make one heck of a difference, typar and other house wraps not needed.

Old windows can be handled by insulated drapes, blinds, etc...

Good luck with your insulation retro fits they'll help a lot as well.

Check the humidity level in your house. Too dry and your heat will feel "cold".