Some Chain Questions

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daveswoodhauler

Minister of Fire
May 20, 2008
1,847
Massachusetts
Been a while since I posted....still cutting after the ice storm.

Anyway, how often do folks sharpen the chains????

Here is my situation....had a ton of pine and maples come down from the ice storm...actually postin tonight as I think Comcast finally has me back up an runnin.....have a 40CC craftsman with a 18" bar. Replaced the chain with an Oregon S62 - low profile.....only one that anyone has in stock for miles from here....anyway. (I know, Craftmans aren't great, but my dad gave it to me new, and I hate to part with it...bout 3 years old)

Saw runs great now....cleaned everything out and she is as good as new.

Felled a maple, and was about 20" diameter...only was able to fell and cut through a few rounds and the chain was dull. Oil on the chain was ok, and I resharpend with the hand tool/file. Took about five passes on each blade at the correct angle...wasnt' even able to get through the tree without resharpening about 2 more times....tree was about 30' in height at 20" at the base. I know that maple is one of the harder woods, but this just seemed a bit excessive.

Saw ran good...no bogging down....no kickback...all the teeth seemed to be in order with each other.

Problem is, I dont have the owners manual.....wifey threw is out cause it smelled like oil/gas.......

I know that the S62 (91 low profile fits well) anyone know if there are other chains out there that might be better for what I am cutting? I have apps 4 more maples to take down appx 18" to 25" in diameter. Maybe I just need another type of chain?

Thanks for the help.
 
Well you should be able to find a copy of the manual online for starters. Most Crapsman stuff is available off the Sears site as a PDF download.

As to the sharpenning, I usually hand file my chain after EVERY tank of gas - good 10-15 minute break to rest, lets the saw cool down before refueling, etc.

Gooserider
 
It is a good idea to touch up the chain every tankful. Depending on the cutting it might need very little or quite a bit of attention. Filing is a bit of an art form, and you need to remember that there are two angles you are concerned with when filing the cutting teeth, along with file height on the tooth. Additionally your rakers will need attention every so often as you file your cutting teeth down. Oregon Chain puts out a nice little book with sharpening info and specs for all of their chain. This general section is a good starting point for learning about sharpening:

http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_02.pdf

You can find more info in the rest of the sections, and btw these are available free in small book form at most Oregon dealers.

http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/manual_maint.htm
 
Maybe a stupid question but are you sure the chain isn't on backwards?
 
Crapsman? Where is Mark the Regency man where I need him :)
Just kidding...thanks for the replys...actually, I usually resharpen after every tank of gas....I let the blade cool down, take a break, and refuel and reoil.
I tried to find the manaul online, but my model number is not available.
Thanks for the links on the sharpening guides...might just have to revist my technique. Thanks,
 
check the depth gauges also.
steel and rocks in trees occasionally, but you would see that on the teeth.
Is there sand or dirt in the bark, or grown into the tree?
 
I try to get 2 tanks of fuel before changing the chain if the wood is dirty you may be lucky to get one tank per chain!(i dont like sharping in the field)
 
Yes, the chain is on correctly....it works fine when sharpened...just dulls easily. I'm going to go down to the power equipment dealer and see what I can find for different chains.
 
ilikewood said:
Been a while since I posted....still cutting after the ice storm.

Anyway, how often do folks sharpen the chains????

Here is my situation....had a ton of pine and maples come down from the ice storm...actually postin tonight as I think Comcast finally has me back up an runnin.....have a 40CC craftsman with a 18" bar. Replaced the chain with an Oregon S62 - low profile.....only one that anyone has in stock for miles from here....anyway. (I know, Craftmans aren't great, but my dad gave it to me new, and I hate to part with it...bout 3 years old)

Saw runs great now....cleaned everything out and she is as good as new.

Felled a maple, and was about 20" diameter...only was able to fell and cut through a few rounds and the chain was dull. Oil on the chain was ok, and I resharpend with the hand tool/file. Took about five passes on each blade at the correct angle...wasnt' even able to get through the tree without resharpening about 2 more times....tree was about 30' in height at 20" at the base. I know that maple is one of the harder woods, but this just seemed a bit excessive.

Saw ran good...no bogging down....no kickback...all the teeth seemed to be in order with each other.

Problem is, I dont have the owners manual.....wifey threw is out cause it smelled like oil/gas.......

I know that the S62 (91 low profile fits well) anyone know if there are other chains out there that might be better for what I am cutting? I have apps 4 more maples to take down appx 18" to 25" in diameter. Maybe I just need another type of chain?

Thanks for the help.

Every time it gets dull.
 
I take 3 sets of chain's with me for my craftsman. I don't like to sharpen in the field either. I cut a lot of dirty wood, so I'll go through about 3 chain's per 1/2 cord of wood. I also cut into the dirt too much also.. a big no-no
 
Thanks for all the replies.
I was basically trying to get a gauge of how often ones sharpen their chains, knowing that a lot of different variables come into play.
In my situation, it seems like I am sharpening once per tank, so perhaps that is on the more often end than others....wood is not dirty.
For those who posted "I sharpen my chain when its dull"...I guess I was asking for that one.
 
I buy clean winter cut Black Ash and can buck up several cords on just one sharpening of my Stihl chain. I can't imagine not being able to get through a single tree if its not dirty. I always used Oregon chains before and only recently switched to Stihl.
 
LLigetfa said:
I buy clean winter cut Black Ash and can buck up several cords on just one sharpening of my Stihl chain. I can't imagine not being able to get through a single tree if its not dirty. I always used Oregon chains before and only recently switched to Stihl.
I have both the same chains with the 28 in. in big wood two tanks of gas is more wood than i can splitt in a day
but i have never been able to just cut all day on one chain you are a lucky dog!
 
LLigetfa said:
Maybe a stupid question but are you sure the chain isn't on backwards?

Someone I know bought a brand new chainsaw (his first one) to clean up some ice storm damage and make some firewood. He took the chain in to the shop to get it sharpened but had to bring it right back because it wouldn't cut. Yep, he put it on backwards.

Dumber yet, he hadn't burned any wood in years but his power was out and going to stay out for a while so he got some wet maple off his wood stack that was more termite dust than wood and started feeding his fireplace. He was burning with the damper wide open. Had a hot roaring fire but I really couldn't feel much heat in the room. I told him it was all going up the chimney that he hadn't looked at in years. He told me that you were suppose to leave the damper wide open on a fireplace. His rotten maple stack didn't last long. Fortunately, the house is still standing.
 
Get yourself a full chisel chain for cutting thru frozen wood. Cutting thru Maple or Pine .Or whatever in ice you need a full chisel chain.

Thats like trying to cut Locust after its been dried out for years , its almost as tough as steel. Also i'd get a better Saw, i no you might not be able to Afford it now.

But in the end it will pay for itself in the long Haul. One Pro Saw and 3-5 Chains Proper Maintence and your Done !
 
GaryS said:
Yep, he put it on backwards.
My father burned wood all his life and he had two chainsaws. I would be constantly fixing and sharpening them because he was pure murder on them. He would run a dull chain so bloody hot that when he ran it into the wet ground it would heat temper them to the point the file would just slip on the mangled ends and put a shine on the file. Whenever I went to visit him, I would sharpen up a half dozen chains so he could swap chains when he dulled one.

Anyway... long story short... on one visit he complained that I did a lousy sharpening job on the last batch of chains. Turned out he was putting them on backwards. Now this wasn't the first time he swapped chains so I don't understand the sudden brain fritz. He even argued with me about which way they were supposed to go.

Oh well... we all get old. I don't look forward to the day my brain fails me and my son has to show me how to put a chain on.
 
Quit buying S62 chains over the counter at your local big box store. That is your biggest problem right there. Check Bailey's, Amick's or ascautoparts on Ebay for the best current price. Buy 91vx chains, they don't have all of the safety features that your 91vg chains have on them. They cut faster and will last longer. Make sure you buy lo-pro chain. These chains don't have the huge ramp on them that the 91vg does. I've pointed others in this direction both here and a couple of people that I work with and they all seem happy.
 
ilikewood said:
Crapsman? Where is Mark the Regency man where I need him :)

Right here, ilike. get the Oregon 91VX lo pro, as previously mentioned, from ammicks. With this chain you'll think you've found Nirvannah and want to move to Oregon and become an Ax Man...........
 
Just a follow up, and thanks for the replys.

I found a problem I was doing wrong (luckily only once) when sharpening, and I think I have it down pat now.

I was taking about 3-4 passes with the hand tool for sharpening, careful to keep it on the proper angle....my problem lied in that I was sharpening one side perect, but when going to the opposite teeth I was still using the right to left technique vs. the reverse of left to right :(

After carefully sharpening the blade for about 20 minutes or so....4-5 passes on each, was able to fell about 4 tress and cut up....went about 2 full tanks before I think the chain started to get a little dull, but it worked good for appx 3 tanks....much better than before :)

Thanks for the help, and I'll look into the other chains folks had reccommended.
 
Good to hear- ya won't believe how much I've learned hanging' out around here for the last year and a half.......................
 
SO do you feel like you've found Nirvannah yet..............
 
Yeah, funny think is I have always been a fan of them and Pearl Jam...older stuff though.....wifey just can't get into Pearl Jam...not sure why.

Going shoping for some new chains fairly soon....learned a lot about the sw in the last month or so...much more comfortable around it and taking it apart, cleaning, etc...
 
aandabooks said:
Quit buying S62 chains over the counter at your local big box store. That is your biggest problem right there. Check Bailey's, Amick's or ascautoparts on Ebay for the best current price. Buy 91vx chains, they don't have all of the safety features that your 91vg chains have on them. They cut faster and will last longer. Make sure you buy lo-pro chain. These chains don't have the huge ramp on them that the 91vg does. I've pointed others in this direction both here and a couple of people that I work with and they all seem happy.

I took your advice on these 91vx chains on a previous post and have been extremely pleased with the results,Thanks.
 
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