Finally figured it out!

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Gregg,

I definately am on to improved performance. This is the challenge when you know you can get better results, you keep poking and prodding!! My issue now is ideling even when a zone is calling. It seems to me that this should be a big enough demand to keep the boiler from hitting its high limit. It also seems that as the tank temps rise it takes longer and longer to add more heat wich equals more wood burned.

quote author="Greg H" date="1231481705"]Larry I don't remember seeing a recommendation for low temps but I just know that the smaller the delta T the less efficient the heat transfer is. Its a lot easier to heat a room to 68* with 180* water than 130* water. You can do it, it just takes a lot longer.

We have been running it to 120* sometimes lower. Perhaps that explains the length of time to heat zones as well "re charge" the tank. I have started to use 130* is our lowest we let the tank get down to.

Where/how are you measuring your tank temps? When I say I'm at 170* that's at the top of the tank maybe 6" below the surface. The bottom of the tank may be as much as 15* cooler.[/quote] I have a stss tank with 3 temp probes one at 15" and then two evenly spaced from there. I have the tank at 160* but it has taken all day.
 
I am not a complete computer/web geek nor am I a newby and I cant for the life of me figure out how to highlight a quote. Tarm boiler and posting on message boards, two things to work on in 09. :)

LD
 
Larry I get idling sometimes when I've got a good hot fire going. It just can't shed the heat fast enough, and trips the high limit. It usually take 5 minutes or so for it to drop back down so the fan comes on. You have a higher BTU/hr rating on the 2200. At 140,000 BTU/hr you are producing a lot more heat. Most baseboard is rated at 600 btuh/ft. so even if you have 100' you can produce heat a lot faster than you can get rid of it.
 
It seems to idle for 15-20 minutes at a clip. When it is idling, the storage temps dont seem to rise very quickly. I agree with the higher btu rating and how it is plumbed, I would have thought that it would handle the heat production.

Bare in mind I am still using the ball valve on TV1 termovar as a balancing valve. I wonder if that has something to do with it. It has been impossible to get my friend (the oil guy) back over to install one. Go figure! I also am wondering if something is up with tv2. In my pile of instructions from Tarm, it claims that excess heat thatis not going to the zones will get diverted to the storage tank. I add no heat when zones are calling, but I will idle.

LD
 
what happens to the condensed water from burning? i’m guessing natural draft + water at the bottom of the chimney?

(This was in reference to my brother's condensing gasifier)

He has two drip pans that he has to empty on a regular basis, and he gets a little condensate that runs down the inside of the chimney and seeps out at floor level. The inside of the chimney is washed clean by the condensation.
 
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